as salam,

Extended Drain Interval

the SECRET lie inside the BASE OIL.....whether you using the 75% base oil or the 99.9% Pure Base Oil....

the pure the base oil, the longer the DI....coz the oil tend to hold the oil from degraded and less contamination

sarjantulang

This is Kampung theory. Never seen such thing mentioned in official document from car manufacturer or engine oil manufacturer or professional car magazine.

The base oil plays a part but it is not a quantifiable part. You can't rate the engine oil by the base oil and hence is not used as a rating. This is how fully syn oils are superior against mineral when it comes to protection against the oil breaking down. Similarly some manufacturers use the process of hydro-cracking to improve the base mineral oil, to a point where some even try to be 'Pretend' Synthetics.. no thanks to Castrol for labeling Group III oils as Synthetic..

So the base does play a part.. like an actor in a movie who is not credited at the end.

Is it okay for a 230,000km engine to start using 20w-50 oil? I notice that after use 20w-50 the engine more torque, smoother. But there's tappet noise after cold start or leaving the car off for about 2 -3 hrs, start again will have tappet noise for about 10-15 secs

I concluded that 20w-50 made it smoother because the clearances in the engine has increased after 230k-km and the thicker oil can seal up this clearances instead of the recommended 10-30.

Tappet noise during start is cause the oil is thick, need some time to reach the head?

Sifus, is my conclusion correct?

I would have to disagree with you.

While Base Oil do play a part in many things but when you are talking about 5K or 10K OCI, Base Oil played NO part. With these OCI, the parts that determine when to change are mainly:
1. Contaminant and soot handling capacity.
2. Depletion of additives.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Apr 27 2012, 03:45 PM

Like I said, it's non-quantifiable part but it still plays apart. Tiny but still in play. Similar to my case where I destroyed the engine oil in 2000km and turned it to water. That's the base oil giving out. And I repeat myself that most people will not experience what I have gone through. Car and track enthusiast would understand what I'm talking about as most people don't turn oil to water. MOst turn to slug as they have not over worked the oil beyond its design. Some of us have driven our cars hard enough to do that.

With full synthetic, at 5000km it comes out all black due to the contaminants but the integrity of the oil is still there due to the superior full syn base oil. It still feels like oil and looks like oil with suspended dirt. It has not turn sluggy so it hasn't been over-contaminated.

If you have used an oil specified by car manufacturer (grade and viscosity) and using the car at it is intended to, the chance of what happened to you is not going to happen. Did you mod your engine to go beyond what they are originally designed for and thus resulting in engine & oil failure?

We were testing oils. Wrecked the Castrol Magnatec in 2000km. The engine didn't fail, the oil did. The engine went on for another 60k km before I sold it and it lasted another 40k km with the new owner before the turbine gave out. We just drive a lot harder than most people. We were looking into the effects of using semi-syn and how we can wreck it in turbo engines. At that time when we did the testing, most did not believe that semi-syn only had 5-10 percent actual synthetic to be labled as semi-syn. We were out to prove a point. That was about 12 long years ago.. how time flies..

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Apr 27 2012, 08:26 PM

Kampung theory??

try this:

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource...02E&language=en




""Petro-Canada’s HT Severe Hydrocracking makes the difference
Conventional processing such as solvent refining can result in a base oil that is 70-85% pure and is pale yellow or amber in colour.

The HT purity process used by Petro-Canada produces crystal-clear, 99.9% pure base oils that clearly outperform traditional solvent-refined materials. Petro-Canada offers a range of PURITY™ base oils that:

Have a high viscosity index (VHVI fluids have a Very High Viscosity Index)
Deliver synthetic product performance at a lower cost
Have low volatility, high thermal and oxidative stability, and excellent low temperature capabilities""




i've test it on my car...already 11,000km and still going...the engine still ok, the EO also smooth and not so blackey...

that's why it is depend on the BASE OIL....the PURE the Base Oil, the higher the Viscosity Index..

and secondly is the ADDITIVE....

sarjantulang

We drove turbo charged diesel engines. Some engine went to 500K km and still OK when sold off. All on good quality Mineral oil. We never find the need for Synthetic and never have any engine oil related problem.

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Added on April 27, 2012, 10:11 pmYou should think more analytically. Allow me to give you an example. Assuming....
1. Synthetic base oil can last to 300,000Km. Mineral last to 150,000-km.
2. Additives for both Synthetic and Mineral are the same. Therefore Synthetic additives last 5000-km. Mineral also 5000-km.

Therefore BOTH oil has to change at 5000-km. These are facts.








This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Apr 27 2012, 10:11 PM

Base oil and additive is a chemistry... Just like nasi lemak, you need good rice and nice sambal..

Yap. Just because you got super rice (Synthetic Base Oil) does not automatically mean you will get great Nasi Lemak. And regardless of what sort of rice (Synthetic or Mineral Base Oil) you use, the amount of Sambal (additives) you get are the same, hence same depletion rate.

you got the point.. But even for the case of mineral, I prefer group 2 and above base oil.. I had been to a few lube blending plant, some oil I will avoid using.. Just like the case of nasi lemak.. Good ingredient but lousy cook..

My personal favorite is the Delo 400 15W40 using Isosyn base oil. It's probably better than normal Group II. Very cheap in 18 liter packing.

I think we are in the same frequency , caltex delo 400 15w/40 API CI-4/SL, come with chevron hydro isomerise base oil. Isosyn = iso synthetic. This oil come with good viscosity index, some moly and adequate TBN no. I buy 200 liter drum. But at caltex station, 5 liter pack cost quite alot. Cheers.

Late 90's. I started using Delo400 because it's the ONLY generally available oil in Malaysia that has JASO DHD-1 specification. Compared to Synthetic but for our tropic, probably just as good at dirt cheap give away price.

I use delo 400 in my camry now..

maybe you want to try Shell HX7 or Shell Helix Ultra with the latest API SN rating. dont know what's the difference between API SM and API SN but shell is doing a lot of promotion to promote their latest API SN engine oil. anyone care to tell me what is the difference?

can anyone tell me 10W40 and 15W40 which type is better?

currently im using VOLTRONIC 15W40 for my 22's old carburetor saga sedan.

and i dont know 10W40 is better or 15W40?coz the workshop mechanic

took 15W40 for my car.

This post has been edited by ClarkFann: May 1 2012, 01:53 AM

How old is your Camry? While it can be used, not many uses it for petrol engine.

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Added on May 1, 2012, 7:03 am15W40 should be fine.

But if you want to use 10w40, make sure you use a good brand and they are more expensive than 15W40. I don't see the need to spend extra money for your old car.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: May 1 2012, 07:03 AM