Liqui Moly is not on par as castrol fyi.
thats y u dont see this brand join either drag,GT even and etc, workshop also hardly used it, even sparepart shop rarely take this brand.

+ liqui moly 10w40 is API SL
even shell and petronas upgraded to SM already

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediend...2010W-40_EN.pdf

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Added on July 4, 2011, 9:10 pm

120 - 280?

Using semi synthetic 10W30 Toyota genuine engine oil for my G spec 09' and warranty going to end soon ~ any recommended engine oil which can further improve the FC and engine performance?

Don't know if it's only me, but I don't really feel the difference between a mineral 20W-50 and a fully syn 5W-30, engine response wise.

I just buy it for protection only.

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Added on September 2, 2011, 11:07 pm

SM is definitely better than SL, but those engine oil with SL doesn't mean its worse than those with SM. It might be due to the case when the engine oil was formulated, the SM standard was not here yet.

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Added on September 2, 2011, 11:08 pm

What do you think of Chemlube?

RM160 and RM89.90 is a huge RM70 gap leh, how come you say top up RM25?

Ive been using semi and fully synt for my kelisa...lets say I just love my tiny rat....for a 1L...the speed is good to abuse...haha. But which brand you'd recommend...cuz if i were to match my petrol and the engine oil....some say it does not optimize it. I pump Shell 95 cuz it somehow gives good mileage...though its a pity i cant pump 97 like last time. Ive tried Mobil semi synth 10 40. Its ok, but review from others say mobil uses recycled. Then Im now using Petronas semi 10 40. Both were ok...but to really pamper my car, what's your opinion? Of cuz dun give me option that pampers until my pocket kena slaughter tq...=P

then might as well get Pennzoil Platinum fully synthetic... around rm115 je

i wonder what make u think that syntium is below average....

I used syntium, penzoil, eneos, shell, mobil before....

all is also around 5/10 w40

the best is mobil, follow by syntium, shell, pennzoil and eneos. (all also semi oil only)

mobil keep my engine very smooth and quiet.

syntium keep my engine able to run in high rpm and less noise too.

shell smooth, less noise but cause my FC become high

pennzoil a bit noisy (maybe coz by the cleaning formula to remove engine carbon?), but good pickup

eneos is the worst for me ... run 3k km tat time is very nice. after 4k km, engine become very very loud sound and FC high.

thus, I truly doubt on your commend unless you try to compare it with others engine oil.

if you feel that syntium is not good. I would suggest you use M7, Q8, liqui moly, HKS, ELF, amsoil (with high grade). that might be able to satisfy you

already used a lot of brand for new BLM ? mobil, follow by syntium, shell, pennzoil and eneos.?

for me i used original mitsubishi oil filter with ENEOS 10w40 Racing Moly.. mitsu ori oil filter is VERY good filteration.. 5,000km my engine oil still yellow and still can lenjan up to 190km/h, engine still smooth, no teppet sound ( common problem for proton and mitsu engine).. for me syntium is the worse even most of the kaki racing guy that i know are not using petronas engine oil and shell.

FYI : there is no more ELF in the market, change to TOTAL.
for my experience and racing friends..

Torco, Q8, Amsoil, Penzoil, Mobil, Eneos , Sumo , M7, Torqnm, Redline, Royal Purple, Lucas, Liqui Moly, Castrol
Other than  this like JTX, Wurth, Syntium, Shell, ELF is not on the same level..

at least i know pennzoil platinum certified
    5w-30
    API SM/CF.
    ILSAC GF-4.
    ACEA A3/B3-04.
    ACEA A3/B4-04.
    ACEA C3-04.
    ACEA C3-07.
    MB p229.31.
    VW 502 00/505 00.
    BMW Longlife-04.

    5w-40
    API SM/CF.
    ACEA A3/ B3-04.
    ACEA A3/ B4-04.
    ACEA C3-04.
    ACEA C3-07.
    BMW Longlife-04.
    MB p229.31.
    PORSCHE.
    VW 502 00/505 00.

while liqui moly MoS2 Leichtlauf 10W-40 only certified for
API SL/CF
ACEA A3-04/B4-04

info on Pennzoil Malaysia
info on liqui moly

I just used Liqui Moly  Synthoil High Tech 5 W-40 Fully-synthetic today dint have much to say because haven't test it all out yet. What i can say is my engine less noise then before. . . But it seems take longer time to start, before this just about 1sec, now around 2sec.. or maybe it just my feeling.. . .

BTW i got question, i got some ppl saying that Liqui Moly oil product for our country (M'sia) is just rebranding from other brand oil IS THAT TRUE? source just from normal chit-chat in FB~

CAR SNR3 - Campro CPS
OIL CHANGE at 5k interval..

BTW is it ok if i change oil at 15k since for fully-syns the interval change around 10km right? But how about other minor service on the 10km service?

Just have my mechanic to drain my Eneos 10w40 oil. Less than 6k and it's dark like coffee, not to mentioned feels heavy and sluggish. After changing to Liqui Moly 10w40, notice the acceleration is somewhat, silky smooth.

Silky should be the word instead of light as I have used eneos 5w30 before. It feels light, but the engine sounds like going to explode.

hard to compare.
because now the feeling of comparison is with 6k old oil.

maybe the dipstick dont have F mark..

haha 

Been using sumo R1 for 4 years. It's good for daily use. Checked the components are still ok with no oil slug on the pan. Still clean.

That is their thinking, but actually whether expensive or cheap same OCI, unless stated extended use, or long chain interval. These are usually sold in the states.
If engine uses more oil like those using 5L or 6L, can also prolong the use.....

That is why oil companies never override the Car manufacturers recommended OCI.....

argg..been poison by  elton. in d end bought lamda oil primer n mos2 10w30 SS. vry vry nice. d engine sound vry smooth. feels d car slightly lighter. now to monitor oil consumption...

Not because of rich not rich. I want to look after my car. Since its my 1st car. I put care and effort to it. When i bought it. It was just rubbish. So i topset overhaul, change the gearbox (still auto lah  ) change the tyres, rims, spray, tint, and so on just to make it perfect. So since then ive been using that oil. Quite smooth, the car feels very light. And for the gearbox oil. Before i use that oil, i use to use those cheap2 oil. I feel like the shifting is quite heavy and slow. Then my friend promoted me with the SUMO oil type VI syntethic. I tried shifting from D2 runs 110kmh already my tachometer red, den shift to D3 130kmh can reach. D4 i dunno if the road is not long enough or my gear finish. 150kmh max. better than before. 120kmh

Hi Elton,
Not to correct you but share info. As far as I know brake fluid is hydroscopic, but not engine oil. When you run the engine but do not bring it up to working temperature, like short distance town uses, then the water vapor is not vaporizes, so it condenses and form water that mixes in on a long run.
That is why using the engine in short runs, it is better to have OCI more often, not longer......

Just came back from SS19 Toyota service center for 50k service
Cost my RM209 with semi synthetic oil. Car feels much lighter and responsive especially accelerate at low RPM.
I think the huge difference also indicates that the semi synthetic oil degrades to an extent that you can feel it towards the end of 10k period.

x pernah pakai, sorry. some say better than lm..

Previously tried Liqui Moly with my 4WD still dont quite like it..

I recently bought a second hand 95' Sentra B14 1.6 all on stock and changed the engine oil to CASTROL MAGNATEC 10W-40..

In my opinion.. the engine runs quite smooth at highways and low noise but power during pickup or overtake is not very satisfying..

Anyone can recommend me better oil for an old car like mine?

LM is not for performance? may i ask why? Coz in planning to use LM 10w-30 after this. FYI, Im using eneos 5w-30 from mileage 10k km until 65k km & recently use Torco TR5 10w-30. All i can say is so far so good this 2 brand.

i want to try 10w40 after this. 10w30 is really best while u accelerating but my engine drinks the oil like nobody business... if i can get the 10w40 to at least slow down the oil drainage then i'll try ceratec full bottle....

if you're not really into performance/modding, can just settle for a complete overhaul/engine rebuild just to restore what is lost (leaks, power loss, color smokes lol) and thats it lo. exactly what i did.

too bad my engine ady specified xw50 and my heavy leaded foot high revving all day erry day, else ill give xw30 a try too LOL

im driving gen2 2007 edition 1.6 with 38k milleage..mind giving me suggestions on the engine oil to use..

- bang for the buck..?
- cheapest..?
- the best..?

thanks..

they are mainstream oil. its not that they are not good. its just that theres better oil, and oils like shell are good for what its worth.

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Added on February 12, 2012, 7:05 pm

how to test 1 by 1? both ceratec and lm xw40 are already in my car. and primer is before i oil change (and after oil change put new lm xw40 and ceratec) lol

thanks...

but this Duron XL has been proven OCI up to 20000km....me got the 1 litre bottle for top up when change the OF....
coz one of my friend use the Duron E(mineral group II+), OCI at 20000km....already 3 times do it...every 20000km OCI...
maybe it is coz of the Pure Base Oil by PC....99.9% crystal clear base oil...odorless and colorless...superb performance...

sarjantulang

that's why i will change the OF at 7000km or 10000km....our local OF cant last longer...the design, material cant stand  deposit, soot, clogging too much...

OF cant last longer, but a very2 good engine oil with good base oil and additive will....

but not too say it will stay like up to 100000km or something like some claim by "mlm" product....hehehe
xphr3ak: yarp bro...Heavy Duty Engine Oil...
sarjantulang

as salam,

that's depend on what type of engine oil you're using....if group I and Group II please change it on time....coz of the additif package cant last longer....also the VI will reduce significantly let say from 128 to 90(example)...

but if one can get Group II+, III,IV then the OCI will be longer than normal......like the AMSOIL....proven up to 15000 miles(miles not KM)
and again...it also depend how much confident customer with the engine oil....even if the manufacturer claim can last up to 20000km(with OF change every 5k km), but the customer is not confident, no one cant argue...

10 basic ADDITIVE package that have to be put in all engine oil are:

1. Detergent
2. Dispersant
3. Oxidation Inhibitors
4. Corrosion Inhibitors
5. Rust Inhibitor
6. Anti-Wear agents - most likely to be put
7.Foam Depressants
8. Viscosity Index (VI) Improvers
9. Pour Point Depressants
10. Friction Modifiers

the FORMULA is secret and what are the additive are also secret...only the manufatrurer know...

but for Anti Wear, most likely are ZINC and Phophorus aka ZDDP
again, depends on what brand of EO you're using...

just my 34.5sen....kindly correct me if i'm wrong...as i also new to this info

sarjantulang