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 The suiting thread v2

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Cheenoo
post Oct 10 2010, 03:01 PM

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Yeah the sleeves definitely need tapering, but after that its as good as designer to the untrained eye.
kneok
post Oct 10 2010, 05:40 PM

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Those arent the pants made with the suit, it wasn't ready when i came to collect the suit.

The lapel buttonholes @__@ he refused to do them during my first suit, saying it's out-of-fashion.

I asked for a slightly higher button stance, to make me look taller. haha.
bloke1
post Oct 10 2010, 06:16 PM

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This is ridiculous. I remembered Richard used normal machined shirt buttonholes for jackets. Most probably he has no idea how to make proper buttonholes.
fan_83
post Oct 10 2010, 07:41 PM

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hi,
i am currently based in klang and is looking for a suit for office and evening wear. my budget is around RM1300.
I have tried the suit at most of teh shops like g2000,padini and seed etc etc... none of them fit very well... so i will be having my first custom made one

I have read teh articles on the first page and have skimmed through roughly the 200 pages of post and is now quite blur and hope that the experts will be willing to condense the information i need altogether...

1) could you please list down name and approx locations of the various taylors who are willing to work on my budget based in kl

2) which of them are willing to accept outside bought cloth as you guys mentioned that its cheaper.. i am thinking of looking for cloth at euro moda and binwani's

3) i have asked around teh tailor at klcc (both the one in isetan as well as the guy in the store called fox...)

4) I also went to the tailor shop called smart master and is not quite happy with their sewing quality so i will not be going back

5) I am quite sensitive to heat so would like a light weight coat which wouldn't make me sweat and look like a boiled apple

6) I am 1.8 meters, have a chest of 41, waist of 36 and length of shoulder to wrist of 23.5 (i think). I cannot get off the rack due to the fact that its either too much fabric at the back or too bunched up at the shoulders..

7) will the experts please help

thank you
MeToo
post Oct 11 2010, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Oct 10 2010, 11:50 AM)
Pants are way too long and baggy. The seat is off.

Waistline is too high, making your waist sit right below your chest. Buttoning stance too high.

Sleeves need some tapering and shortening.

Peak lapels aren't peak enough.


Added on October 10, 2010, 11:58 amLapel buttonholes are missing.
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High waist line is the most immediate observation. The rest i reckon the jacket can get away with.
kneok
post Oct 11 2010, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Oct 11 2010, 10:57 AM)
High waist line is the most immediate observation. The rest i reckon the jacket can get away with.
*
where is this waist line? can you point it out so when i take the suit back to the tailor i can tell him.
MeToo
post Oct 11 2010, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Oct 11 2010, 11:39 AM)
where is this waist line? can you point it out so when i take the suit back to the tailor i can tell him.
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Yours is sitting between the top and mid buttons, makes it lok strange, like accentuating your breast? Cant put my finger on it.

I reckon it should sit somewhere on the mid button area.

Sorry cant explain it well, this is to the untrained/layman eye (ie 95% of malaysian population) ya. I'm sure kakmj and bunch can give you a better technical outlook.
beau
post Oct 11 2010, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(fan_83 @ Oct 10 2010, 07:41 PM)
hi,
  i am currently based in klang and is looking for a suit for office and evening wear. my budget is around RM1300.
  I have tried the suit at most of teh shops like g2000,padini and seed etc etc... none of them fit very well... so i will be having my first custom made one

I have read teh articles on the first page and have skimmed through roughly the 200 pages of post and is now quite blur and hope that the experts will be willing to condense the information i need altogether...

1) could you please list down name and approx locations of the various taylors who are willing to work on my budget based in kl

2) which of them are willing to accept outside bought cloth as you guys mentioned that its cheaper.. i am thinking of looking for cloth at euro moda and binwani's

3) i have asked around teh tailor at klcc (both the one in isetan as  well as the guy in the store called fox...)

4) I also went to the tailor shop called smart master and is not quite happy with their sewing quality so i will not be going back

5) I am quite sensitive to heat so would like a light weight coat which wouldn't make me sweat and look like a boiled apple

6) I am 1.8 meters, have a chest of 41, waist of 36 and length of shoulder to wrist of 23.5 (i think). I cannot get off the rack due to the fact that its either too much fabric at the back or too bunched up at the shoulders..

7) will the experts please help

thank you
*
1. You should purchase the fabric separately to save on the markups that tailors levy if you choose from their swatchs. Off hand I think you will require 4 meters for a two piece single breasted but best consult your tailor first before buying.
2. Most of the fabric shops are in the Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman area ( EuroModa, Silk Street/Binwani's , Jackal)
3. For your first bespoke outing I would suggest something classical like a Navy Blue single breasted all wool suit which will allow you to use the jacket as a blazer for less formal circumstances. Do consider buying extra fabric to make extra trousers ( 1.5 metres ) in order to prolong the life of your suit.
4. Don't be too impressed by the " Super " 150's etc when choosing a fabric. Looking for something in the Super 110/120 range in a 8 to 9 oz weight .
5. Off hand, it would appear that ALT would probably be your best bet assuming your budget includes the fabric & tailoring costs
bloke1
post Oct 11 2010, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Oct 11 2010, 11:39 AM)
where is this waist line? can you point it out so when i take the suit back to the tailor i can tell him.
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Why are you returning the suit?
kneok
post Oct 11 2010, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Oct 11 2010, 03:43 PM)
Why are you returning the suit?
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for minor alteration, mostly. the top left button is slightly off, it hangs sideways and not forwards (if this is making sense). also looking to shorten the sleeves. not sure if the waistline you guys mentioned can be fixed but ill talk to him and ask and get his input. i personally can't see it and i'm happy in general with how the suit fits my body. Just about shows my level of sophistication blush.gif
fan_83
post Oct 11 2010, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Oct 11 2010, 03:35 PM)
1. You should purchase the fabric separately to save on the markups that tailors levy if you choose from their swatchs. Off hand I think you will require 4 meters for a two piece single breasted but best consult your tailor first before buying.
2. Most of the fabric shops are in the Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman area ( EuroModa, Silk Street/Binwani's , Jackal)
3. For your first bespoke outing I would suggest something classical like a Navy Blue single breasted all wool suit which will allow you to use the jacket as a blazer for less formal circumstances. Do consider buying extra fabric to make extra trousers ( 1.5 metres ) in order to prolong the life of your suit.
4. Don't be too impressed by the " Super " 150's etc when choosing a fabric. Looking for something in the Super 110/120 range in a 8 to 9 oz weight .
5. Off hand, it would appear that ALT would probably be your best bet assuming your budget includes the fabric & tailoring costs
*
thanks for the help
but i have some more questions... please bear with me
4) could you please explain to me the difference the material makes ,...i mean i know what colour and what feels good but i don;t know the difference between super 150 and 110/120 etc....
also whats the difference between a cashmere, wool and silk suit ? jsut for curiousity

5) who/what or where is ALT ? please advice

thanks
beau
post Oct 11 2010, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(fan_83 @ Oct 11 2010, 05:51 PM)
thanks for the help
but i have some more questions... please bear with me
4) could you please explain to me the difference the material makes ,...i mean i know what colour and what feels good but i don;t know the difference between super 150 and 110/120 etc....
also whats the difference between a cashmere, wool and silk suit ? jsut for curiousity

5) who/what or where is ALT ? please advice

thanks
*
1. Super 150, 120, 110-, the higher the number the finer the yarn. I am personally not impressed by this as the higher numbered super fabrics tend to wear out faster but feel much softer .
2. Cashmere- a type of wool from Mongolian Cashmere Goats -very expensive, warm & soft to touch
Wool, -generic term to describe fabric from sheep
Silk -yarns manufactured from Silk worms
3. Ah Loke Tailor along Jalan Yap Ah Shak near Heritage Row

Do try the search function, wikipedia or google for further information. It's all there


Added on October 11, 2010, 9:15 pm
QUOTE(kneok @ Oct 10 2010, 11:33 AM)
collected my DB suit from richard's. Again, the small details are still lacking, i think the top buttons' positions are a bit off, but the fit is incredible. There's also more room for movement because the last suit i did had problems with mobility.

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
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Bad

The top functioning buttons should sit on the natural waist, a bit more waist suppression & a slight flare to the bottom skirt would help give the jacket more shape.

The Lapel cut is poorly executed

This post has been edited by beau: Oct 11 2010, 09:15 PM
kotmj
post Oct 11 2010, 10:08 PM

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I like kneok's DB. The sleeves need more tapering, the button stance needs lowering, the waistline should be lowered and inch or two, but otherwise it is palpably obvious it is bespoke. The armholes could be higher. The lapels are like mine, not pointing at heaven but instead they point at the shoulder ledge -- I much prefer them this way. So did Scholte, BTW, the DBs he cut for the Duke all had lapels like this.


Added on October 11, 2010, 10:10 pm
QUOTE(fan_83 @ Oct 10 2010, 07:41 PM)
hi,
  i am currently based in klang and is looking for a suit for office and evening wear. my budget is around RM1300.
  I have tried the suit at most of teh shops like g2000,padini and seed etc etc... none of them fit very well... so i will be having my first custom made one

I have read teh articles on the first page and have skimmed through roughly the 200 pages of post and is now quite blur and hope that the experts will be willing to condense the information i need altogether...

1) could you please list down name and approx locations of the various taylors who are willing to work on my budget based in kl

2) which of them are willing to accept outside bought cloth as you guys mentioned that its cheaper.. i am thinking of looking for cloth at euro moda and binwani's

3) i have asked around teh tailor at klcc (both the one in isetan as  well as the guy in the store called fox...)

4) I also went to the tailor shop called smart master and is not quite happy with their sewing quality so i will not be going back

5) I am quite sensitive to heat so would like a light weight coat which wouldn't make me sweat and look like a boiled apple

6) I am 1.8 meters, have a chest of 41, waist of 36 and length of shoulder to wrist of 23.5 (i think). I cannot get off the rack due to the fact that its either too much fabric at the back or too bunched up at the shoulders..

7) will the experts please help

thank you
*
I'd need to be given a very long, very nice, very luxurious bj to want to answer this.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 11 2010, 10:10 PM
fan_83
post Oct 11 2010, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 11 2010, 10:08 PM)
I like kneok's DB. The sleeves need more tapering, the button stance needs lowering, the waistline should be lowered and inch or two, but otherwise it is palpably obvious it is bespoke. The armholes could be higher. The lapels are like mine, not pointing at heaven but instead they point at the shoulder ledge -- I much prefer them this way. So did Scholte, BTW, the DBs he cut for the Duke all had lapels like this.


Added on October 11, 2010, 10:10 pm
I'd need to be given a very long, very nice, very luxurious bj to want to answer this.
*
:-o i think i will avoid you now.... my creep meter has gone through the roof.....


as a side note..... the information is spread out over the 200 pages over 2 threads... it makes it hard for newbies to get a grasp on the situation.... if someone is willing to condense it into an useful format.... it would be much more effectve...

jsut my 2 cents

kotmj : thanks for the advice... i have just been informed by my company that i will be posted to vietnam (ho chi minh) in a couple of weeks.. and have heard that its much cheaper to custom made a suit there... is it true... ? am very confused now
kotmj
post Oct 11 2010, 10:30 PM

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I wrote a sticky with 2 recommended tailors.

And: The only thing worse than looking like a Malaysian apek is looking like a Viet apek.


Added on October 11, 2010, 10:38 pmI heard Viet haircuts are cheaper too.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 11 2010, 10:38 PM
silencer
post Oct 11 2010, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 11 2010, 10:30 PM)
I wrote a sticky with 2 recommended tailors.

And: The only thing worse than looking like a Malaysian apek is looking like a Viet apek.


Added on October 11, 2010, 10:38 pmI heard Viet haircuts are cheaper too.
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Viet gals r hot and cheaper too...... drool.gif drool.gif drool.gif
beau
post Oct 12 2010, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Oct 11 2010, 10:44 PM)
Viet gals r hot and cheaper too...... drool.gif  drool.gif  drool.gif
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But we won't be talking about clothes but the lack thereof!!
MeToo
post Oct 12 2010, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Oct 11 2010, 10:44 PM)
Viet gals r hot and cheaper too...... drool.gif  drool.gif  drool.gif
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Finally a straight guy with his priorities right! brows.gif
beau
post Oct 12 2010, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Oct 12 2010, 11:11 AM)
Finally a straight guy with his priorities right!  brows.gif
*
The Ao Dai when fitted well makes the female form alluring

MeToo
post Oct 12 2010, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Oct 12 2010, 12:50 PM)
The Ao Dai when fitted well makes the female form alluring
*
Well.. it IS tight fitting... and silk.. brows.gif

Anyway, I noticed most vietnamese (both men and women) are mostly quite slim and well toned. You dont see too many chubby/fat people in vietnam.

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