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 The suiting thread v2

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kotmj
post Sep 5 2010, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Sep 4 2010, 11:32 PM)
Thanks for sharing folks - I finally decided to go for #2 first to add a bit more variety to my wardrobe, but #1 will be the next project for sure.

Some vintage kimono fabric is going to be used by lining the shoulders and piping the exposed seams (quarter-lined) as well as under the pocket flaps.

Very eggciting.
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I saw lots of those kimono fabrics on eBay, they are so incredible but you need to sift through dozens before finding the right one. Many pieces are also very narrow, barely wide enough for a PS.

How do you like the hand of that literal "whole fleece"? I find whole wool (non-super number) perfectly fine and inoffensive. I don't get this whole super number bug.
gshen
post Sep 5 2010, 12:41 AM

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Yeah, it's really hit & miss ordering from fleabay. I am lucky to have found a local source, but his stock imported from Japan is very erratic - sometimes awesome and mostly shit. The stuff I'm using for the project is just ~14" wide and has to be cut on the bias for piping.. very costly indeed.

Which are you referring to? #2? I have no issues with non-supers at all as well, and tend to be extremely pessimistic/suspicious when cloth feels too smooth and silky. May be merely correlation, but I find that non-supers tend to feel more robust/beefy and have better drape in general.

I am quite positively sure, but it may be all in my head though.


beau
post Sep 5 2010, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Sep 5 2010, 12:41 AM)
Yeah, it's really hit & miss ordering from fleabay. I am lucky to have found a local source, but his stock imported from Japan is very erratic - sometimes awesome and mostly shit. The stuff I'm using for the project is just ~14" wide and has to be cut on the bias for piping.. very costly indeed.

Which are you referring to? #2? I have no issues with non-supers at all as well, and tend to be extremely pessimistic/suspicious when cloth feels too smooth and silky. May be merely correlation, but I find that non-supers tend to feel more robust/beefy and have better drape in general.

I am quite positively sure, but it may be all in my head though.
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Gshen,

Fleabay , as you so aptly describe it, is a great source of ladies vintage silk scafts which I've seen used as suit lining to good effect. Not sure how effective it is in terms of robustness.

Like you , I'm not a big fan of all these high super numbered cloths. If anything, my preference is to go no further than 110 or 120 max for longevity. I tend to look at cloth weight . My preference is nothing below 300 gms with 450 for winter jackets.
The lighter fabrics ( with certain exceptions ) generally tend to be more crease prone. The drapes on the slightly heavier fabrics seem better in my opinion.

It's very telling to look at some of the vintage items from the Row versus the more contemporary ones. Not only are they better constructed but the less refine fabrics gives these items greater longevity.
Touchme
post Sep 5 2010, 01:30 PM

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I have been to shops like topman and etc all around pyramid but still couldnt find a suitable one. sleeve too long and the length of the coat reaches slightly above my knee. any idea where i can look for slim fit coat ? i m 166cm and its for uni prom smile.gif

This post has been edited by Touchme: Sep 5 2010, 01:30 PM
Harfan
post Sep 5 2010, 10:29 PM

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Hello there peeps.

Just wanna ask, where to find this jacket/sweater like in the picture below. It's kinda slim fit but I don't know wether it is a jacket or a sweater..?

user posted image
beau
post Sep 6 2010, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(Harfan @ Sep 5 2010, 10:29 PM)
Hello there peeps.

Just wanna ask, where to find this jacket/sweater like in the picture below. It's kinda slim fit but I don't know wether it is a jacket or a sweater..?

user posted image
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Picture's not clear but it looks like a zip up cardigan. Probably find this in KLCC at the various men's outfitters there.
xphossis
post Sep 6 2010, 02:46 PM

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user posted image

user posted image

funky
bloke1
post Sep 6 2010, 02:48 PM

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The above is awful as hell.
MeToo
post Sep 6 2010, 03:30 PM

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I like the tie... so is that like real skunk?
beau
post Sep 6 2010, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(xphossis @ Sep 6 2010, 02:46 PM)
user posted image

user posted image

funky
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Didn't know the circus is in town!!
BikerVoodoo
post Sep 7 2010, 02:03 AM

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It's time to rock a 3-piece.

user posted image

Suit up!
beau
post Sep 7 2010, 09:04 AM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Sep 7 2010, 02:03 AM)
It's time to rock a 3-piece.

user posted image

Suit up!
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Why not?

The question is whether the waist coat should be single or double breasted ( see pictures of Michael Douglas in Wall Street 2 )
kneok
post Sep 7 2010, 10:15 PM

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Just read this thread after being away a while. KOTMJ, why is a DB preferably minimally waisted? Im having one done and he told me itd be better with less waisted but i told him i wanted a bit more shape. Is there any particular reason?
Cheenoo
post Sep 7 2010, 11:36 PM

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A good looking DB is a little wider at the shoulders and a little slimmer at the waist.
kotmj
post Sep 8 2010, 12:49 AM

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Kotmj is very busy taking over the world. kneok, a DB can be as waisted as anything. I have come to appreaciate the generously cut jacket for cold weather wear. My navy DB is for cold weather wear.


Added on September 8, 2010, 1:02 amSo I was coming out of the Emirates Business Class Lounge in Dubai. Opposite was the First Class Lounge.

A guy was coming out from the first class lounge accompanied by a female airport employee. He was attired in a bespoke mid blue suit. Pink bespoke shirt. Black oxford captoes (not shiny). The suit was incredible. Cut on the slim side, but with pronounced shoulder padding which work well in this case because the guy was thin and small. The fit was perfect, the fabric was fluid and obviously high performing, with no wrinkling despite being thin. Light horn buttons. The guy is meditarranean. I walked behind him for a while, eyes wide open to see every aspect of the suit. The highlight of a boring journey.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 8 2010, 01:02 AM
silencer
post Sep 8 2010, 04:08 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 8 2010, 12:49 AM)

Added on September 8, 2010, 1:02 amSo I was coming out of the Emirates Business Class Lounge in Dubai. Opposite was the First Class Lounge.

A guy was coming out from the first class lounge accompanied by a female airport employee. He was attired in a bespoke mid blue suit. Pink bespoke shirt. Black oxford captoes (not shiny). The suit was incredible. Cut on the slim side, but with pronounced shoulder padding which work well in this case because the guy was thin and small. The fit was perfect, the fabric was fluid and obviously high performing, with no wrinkling despite being thin. Light horn buttons. The guy is meditarranean. I walked behind him for a while, eyes wide open to see every aspect of the suit. The highlight of a boring journey.
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U should be following the Emirates stewardess instead of that guy....i hope u do bring enough supply of business cards.....
malutapimau
post Sep 8 2010, 07:46 AM

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will this suitable for suits lining?

user posted image

50% Rayon 50% Acetate

what do you think?
beau
post Sep 8 2010, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Sep 8 2010, 07:46 AM)
will this suitable for suits lining?

user posted image

50% Rayon 50% Acetate

what do you think?
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Looks like something that can be used for the inner lining of the sleeves. Where is it selling & for how much?
malutapimau
post Sep 8 2010, 02:01 PM

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its ~usd4/yd----fr trimfabric,,,,is teh price comparable w/ other lining stores?

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ive discovered some fabrics for baju melayu might as well be a candidate for suits lining,,,,e.g rayon / satin fr mitsubishi jpn---
Cheenoo
post Sep 8 2010, 06:37 PM

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Its too stripe-y..

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