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 The suiting thread v2

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OctoberFly
post Nov 5 2011, 12:49 PM

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Is vest considered a suit? >< I wanted to buy a vest for my friend. Those in black and wear with formal shirt. I was wondering if you guys know how much it cost for 1... and how do we know the size? vest is supposed to be fitting right? ><
dvlzplayground
post Nov 5 2011, 08:31 PM

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QUOTE(OctoberFly @ Nov 5 2011, 12:49 PM)
Is vest considered a suit? >< I wanted to buy a vest for my friend. Those in black and wear with formal shirt. I was wondering if you guys know how much it cost for 1... and how do we know the size? vest is supposed to be fitting right? ><
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a two-piece suit is the jacket+pants. three-piece suit is jacket+vest+pants.

tailor made i think about rm400. but u can just buy cheaper ready-made ones if it's supposed to be a surprise tongue.gif
Mihawk7
post Nov 5 2011, 10:13 PM

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Do any of you know any blogs that sells short blazer under RM100 slim fit gray 36R if possible? Plan on wearing it for dinner function. Im a skinny person 175cm, 64kg
emmaziph
post Nov 9 2011, 08:04 AM

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NEW SUIT from ALT
Seems this thread has died down since its "glory days" of discussing bespoke suiting.

I "spoke" with the venerable Ah Loke for the first time last Saturday, and he proceeded to take my measurements. We selected a standard wool/mix material in black (i know, but my wife likes it and so do i). All in all the conversation was quite delightful, and not as stressful as some forummers make it out to be. Perhaps kotmj really did break him in by all that arguing he did. We conversed in a mix of Manglish and Malay. His English is quite good actually.

Together we decided on an athletic cut SB2B with working button holes and deep brown horn buttons (RM5/a piece for the buttons from AL). He wanted to add RM50 for hand stitching, but relented and threw it in gratis. I wanted to make an extra pair of pants for the suit, but that would have cost me another RM350, so had to postpone that dues to budget constraints. I selected a nice deep golden brown lining from his "better" lining material spread. Slim cut flat front trousers.

After going home and surfing for inspiration, i then decided to change the lapels to Peaked, so I proceeded to call AL and tell him that, along with a reminder to cut the suit slim for a "modern" silhouette. This was 10 am on Sunday, and he cheerfully said OK OK, but first said that this wasnt normal. I don't want normal, if I did, I can shop at Parksons.

Tuesday afternoon was the scheduled fitting session. Overall I felt good about the experience. Here are some shots:

user posted image

user posted image

Issues:
1. the right arm doesnt flow nicely. AL said my right arm is 1/4 inch longer than my left, and hangs differently from my left. Probably due to a shoulder injury I suffered a while back. Well since this isnt MTM, AL will adjust accordingly to my imperfect form.
2. a little too much material at the midsection - AL will take in accordingly.
3. The upperback looks like its nicely hugging my manly broad back, but towards the bottom it is bunching up a bit.
4. Though thin shoulder padding was specified, it looks too padded for my liking.
5. From the rear, some issues with the top part of both sleeves.
6. Trousers were a tad bit too tight at the waist. AL will loosen a bit and lower the front a bit.

Since I asked for a quickie, will visit him once more this week, and get deliver on the 14th Nov (monday) - all in all 10 days since measurement. Will post pics of the finished product.

I hope uncle AL fulfills the high expectation put on his slender shoulders.

Ciao.





kenterong
post Nov 9 2011, 08:31 AM

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hoh, an SB with peaked lapels.

completion of finished product on 14 nov? is this a fused construction?

This post has been edited by kenterong: Nov 9 2011, 09:53 AM
MeToo
post Nov 9 2011, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(kenterong @ Nov 9 2011, 08:31 AM)
hoh, an SB with peaked lapels.

completion of finished product on 14 nov? is this a fused construction?
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Um.. what's wrong with that? My last suit made was SB2B + peaked lapels. Oh and no vents as well wink.gif

ps : the photos are a big blurry mate.

pps : @emmaziph : You are fr. Indonesia? You have any reccomendation for bespoke tailors in JKT?
kenterong
post Nov 9 2011, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Nov 9 2011, 10:18 AM)
Um.. what's wrong with that? My last suit made was SB2B + peaked lapels. Oh and no vents as well wink.gif
oh, nothing wrong with it. just that most people go with a notch for an SB. i've been toying with the same idea myself, so i'm quite interested in the outcome so that i can decide whether to go with peaks for a future commission.
emmaziph
post Nov 9 2011, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Nov 9 2011, 10:18 AM)
Um.. what's wrong with that? My last suit made was SB2B + peaked lapels. Oh and no vents as well wink.gif

ps : the photos are a big blurry mate.

pps : @emmaziph :  You are fr. Indonesia? You have any reccomendation for bespoke tailors  in JKT?
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Pak @MeToo: Me born and bred Malaysian. Where'd the Indon vibe come from? No idea about anything in JKT. Anyway send pics of your SB2B peaked. No vents? plan on standing up all day? cool2.gif
Photos taken on me crappy BB, and taken by AL. You'd think he'd have steadier hands tongue.gif

@kenterong: yes this is fused. Does AL do fully canvassed? I have neither the $ nor the time even if he did. Maybe I'll save year end bonus for one. Are your suits canvassed? Enlighten us on the differences.

Speaking of fused, one of my suit jackets from Sparkmanshop has these bubbly-crinkly thing going on below the left breast pocket. AL said due to imperfect fusing of the material and the canvas. Is there anything to be done about this? Its one of my go-to work suits in grey, hate to retire it. Anyone with experience with this?

thanks y'all.


MeToo
post Nov 9 2011, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(emmaziph @ Nov 9 2011, 02:42 PM)
Pak @MeToo: Me born and bred Malaysian. Where'd the Indon vibe come from? No idea about anything in JKT. Anyway send pics of your SB2B peaked. No vents? plan on standing up all day?  cool2.gif
Photos taken on me crappy BB, and taken by AL. You'd think he'd have steadier hands  tongue.gif

@kenterong: yes  this is fused. Does AL do fully canvassed? I have neither the $ nor the time even if he did. Maybe I'll save year end bonus for one. Are your suits canvassed? Enlighten us on the differences.

Speaking of fused, one of my suit jackets from Sparkmanshop has these bubbly-crinkly thing going on below the left breast pocket. AL said due to imperfect fusing of the material and the canvas. Is there anything to be done about this? Its one of my go-to work suits in grey, hate to retire it. Anyone with experience with this?

thanks y'all.
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Cause u use "gratis" to denote free.... Msian dont use that.

Yeah... I need to find a day to take a photo of the suit... i posted my first, 2nd, and 3rd fitting photos but not the completed work yet.
As for sitting down with unvented jacket..... pls do the obvious and unbutton it when sitting down. Dont you do that to all your jacket?
fazlang
post Nov 9 2011, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(emmaziph @ Nov 9 2011, 02:42 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
I have an old fused suit jacket with bubbles galore.
Just for fun, i separated the fusing from the jacket fabric (pinched and pulled away inner fusing from the wool). Worked all the way from shoulder to the bottom edge of jacket including lapels.
No more bubbles!
Too bad i've "outgrown" the suit, or else it may still be wearable!

Cheenoo
post Nov 9 2011, 10:50 PM

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Would appreciate if you could spoiler it ..Anyway, peak lapels on SBs are controversial on SF. Personally I have no reservations but prefer notch lapels for their understatement. Peaks are a bit loud. I hope you won't regret your last minute inspiration. Some people tend to go down the flashier route just because it's available but of course it's ultimately you who will be wearing it, so it's your decision.

emmaziph
post Nov 10 2011, 12:27 AM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Nov 9 2011, 10:50 PM)
Would appreciate if you could spoiler it ..Anyway, peak lapels on SBs are controversial on SF. Personally I have no reservations but prefer notch lapels for their understatement. Peaks are a bit loud. I hope you won't regret your last minute inspiration. Some people tend to go down the flashier route just because it's available but of course it's ultimately you who will be wearing it, so it's your decision.
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thanks for the views @cheeno. I have a feeling this'll turn out ok. plenty of "understated" notch suits to fall back on, if it doesnt. Do you have any comments on the crappy pics i posted of the first fitting that may help me communicate to AL, so that i'll have a better chance for this to turn out ok? Did you spot any issues I should raise?

I do feel that the length of the jacket is tad bit too long. Waddaya guys think?

Waist suppresion how? Too little, i.e. sack-ish? Or too much i.e. hourglass-ish?

Comments appreciated smile.gif

@fazlang: hmmmmm kinda scared to try your "de-fusing" method. anyone else with any experience to share on this?

*will the tailor's apprentice grace this discussion with his thoughts?*
silencer
post Nov 10 2011, 01:27 AM

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Where is my dear fren...sir kotmj...???
Human Nature
post Nov 10 2011, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Nov 10 2011, 01:27 AM)
Where is my dear fren...sir kotmj...???
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he is at thekerbau nowadays smile.gif
kotmj
post Nov 10 2011, 05:24 PM

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QUOTE(emmaziph @ Nov 10 2011, 12:27 AM)
*will the tailor's apprentice grace this discussion with his thoughts?*
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QUOTE(silencer @ Nov 10 2011, 01:27 AM)
Where is my dear fren...sir kotmj...???
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I no longer do fit critiques here. We have quite the party going on over at thekerbau.com. See you there.
silencer
post Nov 10 2011, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 10 2011, 05:24 PM)
I no longer do fit critiques here. We have quite the party going on over at thekerbau.com. See you there.
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So the webpage is real..i thought it was a joke..c u there then smile.gif
Mihawk7
post Nov 11 2011, 10:09 PM

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got a blazer today, planning on goin semi casual to a dinner ceremony using it. what do you think about this combination: black blazer, light blue casual shirt plain, black jeans and converse chucks. im wondering if a pair of chucks will go well with the combination. or should i be wearing black leather shoes?
emmaziph
post Nov 12 2011, 07:48 AM

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QUOTE(Mihawk7 @ Nov 11 2011, 10:09 PM)
got a blazer today, planning on goin semi casual to a dinner ceremony using it. what do you think about this combination: black blazer, light blue casual shirt plain, black jeans and converse chucks. im wondering if a pair of chucks will go well with the combination. or should i be wearing black leather shoes?
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The chucks would work if the setting is casual. I dont know about the black jacket with black jeans though - danger of looking like a mismatched suit. i prefer some contrast. black blazer, white shirt, faded blue jeans? either the chucks or black shoes will work with that.
deriku
post Nov 12 2011, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(Mihawk7 @ Nov 11 2011, 10:09 PM)
got a blazer today, planning on goin semi casual to a dinner ceremony using it. what do you think about this combination: black blazer, light blue casual shirt plain, black jeans and converse chucks. im wondering if a pair of chucks will go well with the combination. or should i be wearing black leather shoes?
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This is semi casual? You posted in the wrong thread dude.
Mihawk7
post Nov 12 2011, 12:32 PM

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Which thread should i go to bro?

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