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 The suiting thread v2

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emmaziph
post Nov 9 2011, 08:04 AM

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NEW SUIT from ALT
Seems this thread has died down since its "glory days" of discussing bespoke suiting.

I "spoke" with the venerable Ah Loke for the first time last Saturday, and he proceeded to take my measurements. We selected a standard wool/mix material in black (i know, but my wife likes it and so do i). All in all the conversation was quite delightful, and not as stressful as some forummers make it out to be. Perhaps kotmj really did break him in by all that arguing he did. We conversed in a mix of Manglish and Malay. His English is quite good actually.

Together we decided on an athletic cut SB2B with working button holes and deep brown horn buttons (RM5/a piece for the buttons from AL). He wanted to add RM50 for hand stitching, but relented and threw it in gratis. I wanted to make an extra pair of pants for the suit, but that would have cost me another RM350, so had to postpone that dues to budget constraints. I selected a nice deep golden brown lining from his "better" lining material spread. Slim cut flat front trousers.

After going home and surfing for inspiration, i then decided to change the lapels to Peaked, so I proceeded to call AL and tell him that, along with a reminder to cut the suit slim for a "modern" silhouette. This was 10 am on Sunday, and he cheerfully said OK OK, but first said that this wasnt normal. I don't want normal, if I did, I can shop at Parksons.

Tuesday afternoon was the scheduled fitting session. Overall I felt good about the experience. Here are some shots:

user posted image

user posted image

Issues:
1. the right arm doesnt flow nicely. AL said my right arm is 1/4 inch longer than my left, and hangs differently from my left. Probably due to a shoulder injury I suffered a while back. Well since this isnt MTM, AL will adjust accordingly to my imperfect form.
2. a little too much material at the midsection - AL will take in accordingly.
3. The upperback looks like its nicely hugging my manly broad back, but towards the bottom it is bunching up a bit.
4. Though thin shoulder padding was specified, it looks too padded for my liking.
5. From the rear, some issues with the top part of both sleeves.
6. Trousers were a tad bit too tight at the waist. AL will loosen a bit and lower the front a bit.

Since I asked for a quickie, will visit him once more this week, and get deliver on the 14th Nov (monday) - all in all 10 days since measurement. Will post pics of the finished product.

I hope uncle AL fulfills the high expectation put on his slender shoulders.

Ciao.





emmaziph
post Nov 9 2011, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Nov 9 2011, 10:18 AM)
Um.. what's wrong with that? My last suit made was SB2B + peaked lapels. Oh and no vents as well wink.gif

ps : the photos are a big blurry mate.

pps : @emmaziph :  You are fr. Indonesia? You have any reccomendation for bespoke tailors  in JKT?
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Pak @MeToo: Me born and bred Malaysian. Where'd the Indon vibe come from? No idea about anything in JKT. Anyway send pics of your SB2B peaked. No vents? plan on standing up all day? cool2.gif
Photos taken on me crappy BB, and taken by AL. You'd think he'd have steadier hands tongue.gif

@kenterong: yes this is fused. Does AL do fully canvassed? I have neither the $ nor the time even if he did. Maybe I'll save year end bonus for one. Are your suits canvassed? Enlighten us on the differences.

Speaking of fused, one of my suit jackets from Sparkmanshop has these bubbly-crinkly thing going on below the left breast pocket. AL said due to imperfect fusing of the material and the canvas. Is there anything to be done about this? Its one of my go-to work suits in grey, hate to retire it. Anyone with experience with this?

thanks y'all.


emmaziph
post Nov 10 2011, 12:27 AM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Nov 9 2011, 10:50 PM)
Would appreciate if you could spoiler it ..Anyway, peak lapels on SBs are controversial on SF. Personally I have no reservations but prefer notch lapels for their understatement. Peaks are a bit loud. I hope you won't regret your last minute inspiration. Some people tend to go down the flashier route just because it's available but of course it's ultimately you who will be wearing it, so it's your decision.
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thanks for the views @cheeno. I have a feeling this'll turn out ok. plenty of "understated" notch suits to fall back on, if it doesnt. Do you have any comments on the crappy pics i posted of the first fitting that may help me communicate to AL, so that i'll have a better chance for this to turn out ok? Did you spot any issues I should raise?

I do feel that the length of the jacket is tad bit too long. Waddaya guys think?

Waist suppresion how? Too little, i.e. sack-ish? Or too much i.e. hourglass-ish?

Comments appreciated smile.gif

@fazlang: hmmmmm kinda scared to try your "de-fusing" method. anyone else with any experience to share on this?

*will the tailor's apprentice grace this discussion with his thoughts?*
emmaziph
post Nov 12 2011, 07:48 AM

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QUOTE(Mihawk7 @ Nov 11 2011, 10:09 PM)
got a blazer today, planning on goin semi casual to a dinner ceremony using it. what do you think about this combination: black blazer, light blue casual shirt plain, black jeans and converse chucks. im wondering if a pair of chucks will go well with the combination. or should i be wearing black leather shoes?
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The chucks would work if the setting is casual. I dont know about the black jacket with black jeans though - danger of looking like a mismatched suit. i prefer some contrast. black blazer, white shirt, faded blue jeans? either the chucks or black shoes will work with that.

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