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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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pasquinel
post Mar 21 2011, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Mar 21 2011, 11:43 AM)
Um.. i have 2 shirts on the way at bespoked. Its better then Granoff's cotton starting at RM900 smile.gif

Also u might wanna try De-catano (ONLY the HQ pls), their workmanship is RM100
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Where is De-catano? How much do they charge if I use their fabric?
Have you made any suits at Bespoked? What's yr experience?
MeToo
post Mar 21 2011, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(pasquinel @ Mar 21 2011, 12:16 PM)
Where is De-catano? How much do they charge if I use their fabric?
Have you made any suits at Bespoked? What's yr experience?
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de-catano hq is in hartamas. THey have a branch in Summit.... i dont recommend it.
Price, when their website was still up, is aroudn RM250. But their workmanship is RM100. They also always have some kinda pormotion going on.

Bespoked, havent really impressed me yet. But I have a friend who asked them to alter his shirt for the 3rd time at no extra cost due to fit issue. They havent thrown him out of the store yet.
raul88
post Mar 21 2011, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(hakunamatata @ Mar 20 2011, 09:15 PM)
Guys, is it possible to alter (narrower the arm section) a long sleeve shirt?

If yes, any recommended place to do it?
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yes..all tailor can do it
zaxwin
post Mar 26 2011, 12:28 AM

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i would like to ask...i bought a coat before and i would like to custom make a pant to match the coat,is it possible? i mean the fabric matches each other?
kotmj
post Mar 26 2011, 10:39 PM

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Was in Popular and saw Mahathir's new book. On the cover he was photographed in a brand new shirt with the stitch density of Lord's Tailor. Which is to say, something like 3 mm per stitch.
2kia
post Mar 31 2011, 07:50 PM

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greetings folks!

umm, any recommended tailor in pg? would like to downsize a couple of my jeans n slacks

dont mind paying a lil more for a better worksmanship
new[x]
post Apr 2 2011, 11:04 PM

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From StyleForum.

Laundry and Stain Removal Guide
Fine Shirt Care...Proper Laundering & Pressing
authored by Alex Kabbaz and Pauline Young.

Shirt Laundering
Following just these few simple procedures will greatly extend the life of your fine cotton shirts as well as insuring cleanliness and a neat appearance. Proper technique requires a two-day cycle.
On the first day, you'll need a bar of Kirkman Borax or Octagon Bar Soap, available from your local grocer, and a fingernail brush. Wet the Collar, Collar Band, Cuffs, and underarm area. Rub with the bar soap on the underarm area and inside Cuffs until a bit of lather develops. Rub also on the Inside Collar Band and the seam where it joins with the Collar. Then, on the Collar Band and inside Cuffs, scrub the dirt ring gently with the fingernail brush until you begin to see the ring leaving. Check the remainder of the shirt for spots or soil. If any are found, rub with the brown soap as above. If any stain is found which does not remove with the Kirkman Soap, see the Stain Removal Guide at the end of this page.
Finally, roll up the wet, soapy shirt and leave overnight in a plastic bag in order that it will remain moist.
The following day, machine wash as follows;
Whites
Hot Water
Gentle Cycle
Colors
Warm Water
Gentle Cycle

After testing many detergents, Tide Unscented Powder has been found to offer the best results for fine cotton shirts. After cycle is complete, tumble dry on 'No Heat' setting until shirts are just damp. Or, if you have the facilities, line dry outside until just damp. Hang on a white plastic hanger.
Laundering Hints

* Do not use bleach! Do not use starch! Do not use fabric softeners!
* Allowing the shirt to oak overnight reduces the amount of scrubbing needed to remove soil, therefore reducing wear. The longer it is permitted to soak, the better the results.
* Sleeves tend to tangle in the washer, reducing the ability of the soak cycles to remove detergent. Adding a couple of white towels to small loads will help to reduce this problem. If soap remains in the shirt, it will brown when pressed. Wash again without detergent if you suspect this to be the case.

Shirt Ironing
The Shirt should be damp all over. Use either Steam or Dry Iron. Use the 'Cotton' temperature setting. The 'Burst of Steam' button is not recommended. Best is a water mister spray bottle(plant mister).

* 1 - Press cuffs open flat, first on the inside, then lightly on the outside. S-t-r-e-t-c-h tightly while pressing. Be gentle with the corners of the cuffs. Try not to catch them in the steam holes on the iron as this is a major cause of premature fraying.
* 2 - Press the sleeves' plackets. Button their button. Then: Button Cuffs Button the button of the previously pressed cuff. Using your hands, shape the cuffs into a circle. Do not crease button cuffs. French Cuffs Fold and press in the fold, carefully matching the link holes. Shape with your hand to a circular shape. Secure circle with a plastic stud or white plastic twist-tie.
* 3 - Holding the sleeve at the seam side(under the arm) grasp seam at underarm and cuff ends. Shake the sleeve out and lay flat on the pressing table with the seam near you. Place the point of the iron on the seam at the cuff end. Holding the seam at the underarm, stretch very tightly and press the seam flat with no puckers. Holding the seam with one hand, smooth the sleeve away from you, removing all wrinkles from both top and bottom layers. Repeat this smoothing motion using the iron. Continue right off the sleeve, pressing in the crease at the top of the sleeve. Press in the pleats, if any, at the cuff end. One should match the top-of-sleeve crease.
* 4 - Place left hand just inside the left armhole and use the right to grasp the shirt at the hem where the left front and back join. Shake out and lay flat on the table. Press this side seam flat while stretching. On the inside of the rear armhole, press flat the seam which joins the sleeve to the shirt body. Do not stretch this seam too tightly. Repeat for the other side, reversing your hands.
* 5 - Lay the top center front (buttonhole side) face down on the table. Holding the top with your hand and the hem with the iron, stretch very tightly and press heavily twice. Repeat for the button side, pressing around the buttons. Turn each side face up and repress. Do not press the buttons as they can break.
* 6 - Hold the button side of the front at hem and collar. Shake out and lay face down. Press on the inside, paying particular attention to the top area where the collar, yoke, and front join together. Repeat for the buttonhole side.
* 7 - Press the shirt yokes on the inside. Then, using the point of the ironing board or corner of the table, press flat on the outside.
* 8 - Lay the shirt on its back, wrong side up. Press the back with steam. If there are darts, press them towards the side seams.
* 9 - Lay the collar band, inside up, flat on the table. Stretching very, very tightly, press from buttonhole to button. Turn over and repeat. Then press the underside of the collar, again stretching tightly. Do not have the iron on the band and collar at the same time.
* 10 - Turn over and press lightly on the top side of the collar. Do not catch the collar points in the steam holes, again a major cause of fraying. Now fold down the collar over the band and press in the crease as heavily as you can.
* 11 - Press the fronts again, this time lightly on the outside. Put in the collar stays and hang the shirt on a hanger. Button all of the buttons on the front of the shirt.

Helpful Hints
* For best results, you should have available either a firmly mounted ironing board or a flat pressing table with a separate sleeve board. In all cases, pressing surfaces should be covered with white cotton fabric and maintained lint-free.
* A small pair of sharp scissors for removing loose threads is helpful. Additionally, a small, damp piece of white fabric will assist in removing small dirt spots.
* Should you press in a wrinkle, allow the area to cool. Then dampen and re-press. When hanging shirts in the closet, make sure there is sufficient room to keep them from crushing each other's carefully pressed collar. Store two shirts back-to-back, then a space , then two more back-to-back shirts, etc.

Stain Removal Guide
* Stain Removal Supplies Store Safely Away From Children!
* Drycleaning Solvent Available in grocery or drug stores;can be poisonous and/or flammable. Do Not Breathe fumes. Never dry in dryer!
* Dry Spotter Mix 1 part Coconut Oil with 8 parts Drycleaning Solvent
* Wet Spotter Mix 1 part Glycerine (available in drug stores), 1 part Liquid Dishwashing Detergent, 8 parts water...Shake well before use
* White Vinegar, Clorox Bleach, Ammonia, Hydrogen Peroxide, Tide
* Crayon, Make-Up, Grease, Mascara, Oil, Paint, Shoe Polish Sponge with drycleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with absorbent pad soaked in dry spotter. Remove pad. Flush with drycleaning solvent. Repeat until pad comes away clean. Allow to dry. Sponge with water. Apply wet spotter & a few drops of ammonia and cover with pad soaked in wet spotter. Remove pad. Repeat until pad comes up clean. Flush with water, wash with Kirkman Soap. Wash normally in machine.
* Catsup, Cheese, Chocolate, Gravy, Dairy & Food Products Same as above procedure Except substitute liquid dishwashing detergent for wet spotter. Before washing, soak 30 minutes in solution of Tide and water. For chocolate, bleach with Hydrogen Peroxide for 5 minutes.
* Blood, Body Fluids, Vomit, Organic Stains Soak in solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 tsp. liq. dish detergent, and 1 tbsp. ammonia for 15 minutes. Repeat. Soak in 1 quart warm water with 1 tbsp tide for 30 minutes. Rub with Kirkman soap and keep moist. For blood, use hydrogen peroxide. Then wash normally in machine.
* Rust, Ballpoint Ink, Grass, Scorch - Call Your Shirtmaker! For all final machine washes of stains, all one capful of white vinegar.
kotmj
post Apr 3 2011, 11:50 AM

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^This was the method I used before my current method.

There is no Colgate Octagon in Malaysia, but there is the Australian equivalent called Sard Wondersoap, RM12/bar. This is such a wonderful soap I ended up using this for everything, even washing dishes.

However, the method is stupid. I had to scrub every shirt collar and every cuff and even the yoke because it was brown there too. Then I had to roll the shirt up into a ball and wrap it in a plastic bag. I have better things to do with my life. The results were good, but my current method is far superior because the grease removal is throughout the entire shirt, not just limited to the areas where you scrubbed in soap. No scrubbing, just dump shirt into washing machine and let soak. I'm a genius.
hakunamatata
post Apr 3 2011, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(raul88 @ Mar 21 2011, 06:49 PM)
yes..all tailor can do it
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any recommended place to do it? biggrin.gif
Cheenoo
post Apr 3 2011, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(hakunamatata @ Apr 3 2011, 04:11 PM)
any recommended place to do it?  biggrin.gif
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no. but to make it easy on the wallet, look for old shop house tailors in less upscale places. Any tailor can do something trivial like this. If not, they should just close down.

be ready to go to more than 1 tailor, some tailors refuse to do alteration work.
beau
post Apr 7 2011, 01:19 PM

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http://img163.imageshack.us/g/l1010015.jpg/
kotmj
post Apr 7 2011, 02:49 PM

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^that first H&K is deeply disturbing...
Grimm
post Apr 9 2011, 09:52 AM

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I'm gonna hijack this thread because its the closest to my topic, and ask about the differences of lambswool and regular wool, its insulating properties and plushness. I need to get a sweater/cardigan, and so far, the only sweater I have is a cotton one with 10% cashmere.

Haven't had any experience with wool. And I find the sweater I own rather comfortable already. How would wool and lambswool feel?

This post has been edited by Grimm: Apr 9 2011, 09:54 AM
kotmj
post Apr 9 2011, 12:51 PM

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Wool is coarse and prickly, but I wore 2 sweaters of wool for many years and found them excellent. They are incredibly durable and wear for years before holes appear.

Merino wool would be much finer and preferable to cashmere because they are stronger. However, the merino sweater I have developed holes after only 6 months of infrequent wear.

Dunno about lambwool. Felt some 100% cashmere sweaters and they looked about as strong as tissue paper.

I would personally stick to thick plain wool.
deriku
post Apr 9 2011, 12:58 PM

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The Uniqlo stores here offer merino and lambswool sweaters. The lambswool sweater feels more course and is thicker, providing better insulation.
Grimm
post Apr 9 2011, 01:17 PM

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Right, thanks. I wouldn't want to be wearing expensive tissue paper.

Will cross high % cashmere off my list, and will try a merino one when I have the extra cash. Pure wool is out cause I dislike the prickly pokey pokey feeling.

Looks like its down to lambswool or a cotton/wool mix.
FL690
post Apr 13 2011, 08:16 PM

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Hey guys,


I love fitting clothes. Problem is looking for the sizes. I usually wear 'S' or sometimes 'M' and sometimes when I step into a store and see something I really like it would be a 'L' or 'XL'.

My question is, do you think it would be recommended to buy those huge shirts anyway and get them tailored to fit my smaller frame? I wouldn't mind spending extra on top of the shirts for the tailoring.


=)
Thanks.
tun
post Apr 13 2011, 09:08 PM

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any tailor in penang do alteration for leather jacket ?
seriously i need it !!!!!!!
tried soem tailor and they dont do it
debbierowe
post Apr 16 2011, 11:51 AM

so fast 6 stars di...
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is there a thread for ladies to talk bout tailoring and alteration? sad.gif
U+FFFD
post Apr 16 2011, 12:07 PM


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QUOTE(debbierowe @ Apr 16 2011, 11:51 AM)
is there a thread for ladies to talk bout tailoring and alteration? sad.gif
*
There are a few recommendation threads scattered in the Girl's Club and Trends+Fashion sections but no specific threads catered to serious discussions on tailoring and alterations.

You can try starting a thread in the Girl's Club (GC) to invoke interests and discussions similar to what we have here.

Although, I advise you against doing the same thing in the Trends+Fashion subforum (which is sort of an abandoned section) since the ladies prefer to talk about beauty and fashion over at the GC instead. Even the female hosiery thread in Trends+Fashion has somehow been taken over by guys who loves to talk about pantyhoses, much to my bemusement.

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