on the NOTE NUMBER 2, i think the T-amp can be made to do bi-amping which i intend to do with my 2x t-amp board..currently waiting for a cheap bookshelve to come by, mcm ada lubang for wharfedale 8 series or pinnacle shelves..haf to wait...

Sadly im in Sarawak..

However, a friend is offering a very minty black Wharfedale 8.1 at RM350, i think can nego to RM300. Only used as satellite. It has been replaced by the 9 series wharfedale, but at the price, any comment?

I don't want to thrift to much bookshelves since I am more into headphones, but eventually, when i have space and money, i would love to get a decent setup. But atm, testing testing rendam kaki in the water dulu.

a simple on-delay that would reduce thumping by switching power to the T-AMP only after a certain level of voltage is available can be made with..few diodes, cheap jellyben opamp and a relay. it should werk, theoretically. But me, talk only, no action

Back on the PSU requirement, since the unit is SUPPOSEDLY ran on 8xAA battery, power input shuld be that high at output power of 10W into 8ohm. Say getting a 15V out tranny regulated to 12V, at most 30VA is good enough eh? Iq is too little to even bother, this shud lead to proper operation of the chip?

The datasheet isnt of much help..

However, a 1A 12V dc jack shud be able to run it eh? Got my new *baby* liao..

no, caps dun burn. they die But it wont protect crap.

Just wired my T-AMP after...ntah ho wmany months, finally baru mau on since im fcuked up with GC not having proper psu n casing..so there lie my naked tamp with all the necessary mods i deem necessary only, non-superlative.

Impression, compared to LM4766 sub-par GainClone that i haf been using, the T-AMP has SIGNIFICANTLY more detail, leaner mids, however less soundstage and low-end extension, its what i would consider BRIGHT. Not really my cup of tea..yet..temporary use till i get my crappy GC online, then ill do sumthing about the T-AMP.

But hell, ITS FREAKING SMALL!!

u guys haf to be extra careful, most power supply/adaptor are not up to standard voltage, they haf the no-load voltage output and full load voltage output, sum manufacturer will state no-load voltage out, sum will say full-load voltage out. since the tamp use that lil power, it usually use almost to no-load full voltage, unregulated adaptor will full blow ~15V eventhough rated at 12V. car battery, high capacity, full charge out ~14++V of voltage with extremely high output current.

If u read technical info on the t-amp, max in voltage is strictly 13.2V, so u guys go over the border liao. Funny thing sumthing as advance as the T-AMP with digital filter dun haf over-volt protection...

Neways, seems like my current hiFi setup cannot even see the smoke on my headphone setup...

i can say the same for sanwa, ada cd800a, but seriously recommend FLUKE, u can source for cheap used fluke around here...the things ppl sell online..even on lowyat. i know i got my fluke83 for 1/5th the price at only one month old..

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Added on February 10, 2009, 11:59 pmid recommend going direct to fluke, saves u a lot cause EVENTUALLY u will buy one. uncle bsl must haf a diff standing on this though but me sokong uncle jazzy on fluke. hard sunnavab1thc!

This post has been edited by ijan: Feb 10 2009, 11:59 PM

fluke acc (6000 counts), a bit better than sanwa (4000) for the lower end, fluke 70/80>sanwa low end, but when the count goes up, then its different. the higher fluke 28x series has 50,000 counts..thats kewl..

cd771 has better feature..that you will not use

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Added on February 11, 2009, 12:09 pmthe online price mam rs n farnell cannot be used as reference la, like my fluke 83 almost rm2k in price, but i know the first owner bought them for slightly over rm1k, and i bought them much less than 30% of that.

This post has been edited by ijan: Feb 11 2009, 12:09 PM

agreed.