I am also in this category too. 

Jazzy, yes, I shall start mine after receiving my new boards from Xtorm and would post my report from time to time.
I just hope and pray hard that I don't damage the board and that shall be end of report sooner than expected. 

Happy tweaking, folks. 

onbs,
My thoughts exactly!  I'm impressed
Keep up the good work eh!

alamak sorry bro.. typo lah! 

ongbs, may be you can also publish some DO's and DONT's when upgrading the T-Amp? How about that?

Glad that you also noticed that! 

Hey, you guys are not helping me at all and if anything scaring the xxxx out of me.    

Since I have bought almost the entire discreet components needed, perhaps I should source for an empty board with though holes to mount them with point to point wiring instead. And last, transfer the TA2024 chip over. 

Aiyo, dun malu2 la bro ongbs, soldering is sumthing you haf to learn by practice, no matter how much reading, learning theories and BS u go through, doing the darn soldering itself teaches you the whole bunch about it. But not adviseable to practice soldering on ur TAMP board, try cari old rosak PCB, or old computer psu.

xtorm, when is the latest shipment going to come in? My hands are getting real itchy.

BTW, should I get a new soldering iron or should I just 'revive' my 15 year old Antex?
What type of solder do you use? Audiophile grade solder (if there's such a thing) that makes the sound more 'definitive'? 
Where do you get the SMPS?

Y.C.,
Yes.. I saw that already. You were editing it while I was composing the reply.
I might consider it too..
But I got one good circuit from that site, the 'anti-thump' relay circuit. Chances are I will be making that circuit..
Anyone interested in building that circuit?

ongbs,
Nope.. that's to adjust the DC offset. But according to the text, it does not solve the 'thump' problem..
It's the other circuit with a relay...

yeah.. thats the one dude!

or change the capacitor as the timing is the time taken to charge the cap.. either way, it's your choice!

Hmm.. not so good news la bro ongbs,

the circuit managed to prevent the power on thump as it takes about 4 secs. to energize the relay but unable to remove the power off thump as it took 2 secs. for the relay to de-energized.

Although I do not have issues with power off thumps, but I don't think the circuit is good enough for my baby..

I have other speaker protection relay circuit which I intend to do probably this weekend.. Will update the thread if necessary.

I also found there is a Speaker Protection KIT sold by NIXIE at a price of... ready or not: RM80!
Cheap considering you're protecting a set of expensive speakers.. too much is compared to the cost of the basic T-Amp! ...

It's your call! 

bro ongbs,
I got you loud and clear there!
I like the way you think 'outside' the box...
Ok will consider that against my existing circuit.. will put that up by this weekend.
That circuit come from another power amp which I have built. a discrete 40W+40W that can actually give the T-Amp a run for it's money.. it is 'cheap' costing almost the same price like the T-Amp.. I nicknamed it D'Bomb, which I was discussing losely with gabanyayaya some postings back..
The main advantage of this circuit is of it's low component count!
Now.. if i were to package this in a kit form(anti-thumping kit for T-Amps) and put it for sale on ebay.... 

p/s: If you see my earlier posted pix of my casing, there is no inclusion of a power switch. It has an IEC socket. Power switch comes from the mains socket switch! Talk about minimalisation!

Another KIC (Keep It Cheap) approach is to use a simple DPST switch. ON speaker switch AFTER power ON, OFF speaker switch BEFORE power OFF! 

ongbs,
Currently my practise is that I would manually plug out each of the speaker cables before switching off and replug them back moments after power on.
Leceh, yes.. better than having this uncomfortable feeling hearing the 'thumb' sound coming from my speakers..
Installing a switch (KIC)for this is a whole lot better than manual plug/unplug. Having a protection circuit is obviously convenient...if you got the RMXX, why not! 

Another simple circuit would be employing the 555 timer(and control relay) for this purpose, and using the same SW2 N/O contact arrangement like you proposed.
Have to check the cost vs simplicity. Then later will decide..

On another subject matter,
Someone PMed me and say this thread is slowing down a lot. No more interesting mod/work/pictures..
I guess seeing the number of views against the postings roughly we have about 10 views per posting.
There are not many active posters here so, you know where the views are coming from... 

I think so too!
555 timer should be known by everyone in the electronic hobbyist world..
Not to worry, there are abundance in the net. I have a collection too!
Your T-Amp should be arriving.. this week? 

Guys, i just realized the Tripath website is closed. Anyone have a copy of TA2024 datasheet? and also the schematic of our T-amp board?

Ekool,
Our T-amp is as tiny as size of mykad, its design simple using SMDs instead of discreet components and essentially a plug and play item. Our sifus here have replaced most SMDs with discreet components and I shall follow suit soon after I receive my new T-amp boards. I hope to replace even more SMDs if I don’t damage the board prematurely in the process. I did not buy the components below and may pick them up along the way when I perform the mod:-
2 pcs of 100pF Capacitors at location C23,C24
5 pcs of 1000pF Capacitors at location C8,C9,C10,C11,C21
4 pcs of Diodes at location D5,D6,D7,D8

I shall post photos plus comments before, during and after the SMDs mod; I assume you have a pair of steady hands, game to join me? 

If you read through the postings in this thread, you’ll notice that I was on the verge of buying Charlize (TA2020) before I chanced upon this great little gem of ours at only RM55. At this juncture, I’m more than happy with its performance even before the SMDs mod, so I shall give TA2020 a go and move on with life, work, family and usual listening enjoyment. For info of all, the TA2024 chip alone could be bought in PRC for as low as RM6 each piece. And if I were to replace all SMDs including diodes, I mentioned that I might as well use a new through-hole board altogether.

wui,
the Evaluation Board schematic is available at the beginning of the thread for download.

The datasheet for TA2024 is from my T-Amp stuffs folder<-- as earlier noticed by our Mr.Spy..

Here you go! For everyone to d/l too!

bro,
Yes, that I will do and will have fun doing the soldering/desoldering work. Thank you. 

No, I would not replace the diodes if I stick to our T-amp board unless of course I really go ahead with a new through-hole board.

C21 is located at the positive side of the power supply input according to the Schematic of of the Evaluation Board.