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DIY T-Amp user/diyer come here :), TA2024 complete build board diy

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ongbs
post Sep 20 2008, 02:20 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 20 2008, 02:16 AM)
ongbs,
when are you planning the mod job?
don't forget a post mod review k!
BTW, RIFA better than Vishays? tongue.gif
*
Maybe will wait till I get the 0.47uF caps...
Hope my ears "can" tell the different, to much "good noise" damage as you said doh.gif sad.gif

RIFA is one of the good quality caps from Sweden, I believe it will be much better than those SMDs.


Added on September 20, 2008, 2:24 am
QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 20 2008, 02:19 AM)
Whoa, my hats off to you, Ongbs. However, do see my comments above.  tongue.gif
*
Noted!

I prefer Super-T coz bigger casing, easier if I want to add in some massive power caps tongue.gif
As power supply I still can use SPMS and take out the toroid for other purpose brows.gif

I think they should make it equal size as CDROM so that those want to use in PC can fit in nicely....


This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 20 2008, 02:24 AM
ongbs
post Sep 20 2008, 08:00 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 20 2008, 03:34 AM)
Y.C.,
I was about to say that!
I am more willing to wait for Argen's next TA2024 board! wink.gif

Whats the rush, right? biggrin.gif
I mean, I got 4 boards! another 1 coming... tongue.gif
*
Anything special about this board?
Got link?
ongbs
post Sep 20 2008, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 20 2008, 10:34 AM)
ongbs,
This so called new TA2024 board are being discussed at diyAudio.com forum.
At the moment, Argen is asking the users what do they want in this new board design having learned from the previous board.
Once he completed the design, he will post it for view and comments before producing it for sale..

here's the link :  diyAudio's link

new board design link here

What's your wishlist on the new TA2024 board?
*
Thanks for your info jazzy, will look into it smile.gif
ongbs
post Sep 20 2008, 03:04 PM

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bro jazzy, nice works for the high resolution pics and detail explanation thumbup.gif


This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 20 2008, 03:06 PM
ongbs
post Sep 20 2008, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(ijan @ Sep 20 2008, 09:25 PM)
Im impressed with you guys notworthy.gif

Im planning to use use stock SMD parts, replacing only parts deemed necessary (have to read through this thread and refer to the evaluation datasheet) but nothing big ass like what bro jazzy buat, i prefer (if a must requirement) to replace with a better SMD counterpart to keep the size.

Decoupling caps, 6.8uF polypropylene capacitors direct wired to the board, power supply in the same box, toroidal 12V 24VA tranny > linear regulation > power opamp raw regulation to the T-AMP. Volume control, lowly over-stocked ALPS RK097, all packed into a medium sized Hammond extruded aluminium casing with the casing acting as the PSU heatsink. So a medium sized enclosure, with direct AC power and is able to accept both RCA and stereo 3.5mm input, selectable and output with pisang-plug.


Added on September 20, 2008, 9:26 pmEstimate...erm...this is another RM200 easily..haha, 4x the heart's cost (the T-AMP itself).
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bro, can have a "peek" of your Hammond Aluminum casing and ALPS? (pics lah laugh.gif )
The casing only RM60+? drool.gif
ongbs
post Sep 21 2008, 04:34 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 21 2008, 03:35 AM)
Jazzy,
Do you suspect the Vishay 2.2uF capacitors are not actually Vishay capacitors in the first place? How do they sound in comparison to your Elna 2.2uF capacitors?   hmm.gif

Okay, my story of how I ended up as seller of Vishay 2.2uF capacitors is as follow: 
These capacitors need to be purchased in 5 pieces together at one go.
I was at RS Components on 02.09.2008 and was browsing through their catalogue and found these capacitors. They have been stated in their catalogue as Polypropylene Capacitors and are very suitable for use as coupling or input caps, hence I bought 5 pieces (ex-stock in KL then).

I only need 2 pieces for myself and thus was having 3 additional pieces to dispose off; so my mention in this thread.
They was a tussle for the 3 pieces as I only wanted to sell them off cheaply at RM9.50 each for the first 2 pieces and the 3rd odd piece at RM4.50 (with me paying RM9.30 each for the 2 pieces). I personally felt bad for letting down a friend after failing to supply him the 3 pieces which I had agreed to do so; I ordered another batch from RS Components which by then have sent their remaining stocks to Singapore.

All Vishay 2.2uF capacitors have been fully sold by me at RM8.50 per piece and the last 2 pieces to the friend whom I had let down for failing to suppy him the 3 pieces. I only collected RM7.50 each from him, much lower than what I actually paid to RS Components (I had given him a RM5 change in a single note instead of 3 RM1 notes as I did not have enough RM1 notes with me when we met up).

After having ordered from RS Components, I found out from the Farnell website that these Vishay 2.2uF capacitors are Polyester Capacitors and known as Vishay Roederstein. The RS Components website also state the same and are sold at RM42.10 for 5 pieces.
mysghooi,
Sorry, I no longer have any single piece of Vishay 2.2uF capacitors, not even for my second T-amp board which I'm going to perform the replacement of SMDs with Vishay BC capacitors and resistors like our T-amp sifu, Jazzy.   sad.gif
*
bro Y.C,

Actually i am the one who asked jazzy about this caps tongue.gif
I got a few 0.1uF caps and printed with "ERO" on them, I don't know what this "ERO" means, brand or something else...
Then I saw jazzy's pics with Input caps printed with "ERO" too, so I just pm him to inquire about this caps...end story laugh.gif


Added on September 21, 2008, 4:41 am
QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 21 2008, 04:32 AM)
Y.C.,
heyy mornin' there! You do come in late.. err early mornin' tongue.gif

Someone having a very sharp eyes noticed from my pix that the so called Vishay caps have ERO engraved on them.
A quick search found that they were Vishays after ERO has been acquired by Vishay.
....
*
haha bro jazzy, we post at the same time tongue.gif
Normally at this hour only 3 of us are awake...where are those "young chaps" huh?
Burning amp or something else? hmm.gif

Tomorrow will go out to dig some caps for mod stage 2 icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 21 2008, 04:41 AM
ongbs
post Sep 21 2008, 08:11 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 21 2008, 06:50 AM)
hey there ongbs,
yeah.. at this hour it is always us! wink.gif Those sleepyheads.. laugh.gif

Say what caps are you getting? Vishays? wink.gif
I presumed you have downloaded the Stage 2 instructions... any comments? hmm.gif

Anyway, happy hunting! thumbup.gif
*
I just read the PDF files, well, to me it is sharp and clear...nice jobs dude thumbup.gif notworthy.gif

add on:
I try to search for the word "1% tolerance resistors", it is advisable to use 1% R right?
Hmm ...maybe I missed out...tak nampak...
If you did mention it then just ignore my feedback. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 21 2008, 08:16 AM
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 03:43 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 22 2008, 12:31 AM)
Mysghooi, thank you for sharing.  thumbup.gif

I see that you could fit the speaker binding posts and RCA connectors to the wooden box; I am still having problem with mine.  sweat.gif

Any humming sound to your loudspeakers when no signal from the CD player is being fed into your T-amp?
*
bro,

i thought wooden box easier to work on?
just drill holes according to the connectors size, better put in extra metal washers as wood is softer compare to metal.
With extra washer it will "hold" better in its position. smile.gif

Maybe you mean your casing walls too thick? hmm.gif

About humming sound both my board are dead silent, even without the casing....

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 22 2008, 03:45 AM
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 04:14 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 22 2008, 04:09 AM)
bro,
Yes, my wooden box is made of Rosewood and it is both very thick and very hard, definitely much harder to work than metal box.

My T-amp is dead silent too with not a single hum nor buzz; I asked mysghooi so as he was complaining of buzzing sound from his two other amplifiers even when CD player is not playing any disc, remember?
*
hehe...remembered back now..tongue.gif
So you still burning your amp without casing?
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 22 2008, 12:51 PM)
......................

I thought so too after my change from the stocked input caps; but to me, the bass lines are better defined and I felt the balance of my Q Acoustics 1010 was restored with these caps.
I know, I know : "a man’s meat is another’s poison".  laugh.gif

I was looking at the picture of internal of Topping TP-10 Mk II and noticed the input caps used are Vishay MKT 1820 and their value printed as 3.6uF. The brand and its logo is also legibly printed on the caps whereas those I come across thus far tak ada. I am just curious as to whether caps got such value in the first place as I thought it should be either 2.2UF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF and so forth. Tiruan kot!  brows.gif
*
You are right, it is depend on the speakers paired and personal liking smile.gif
The best is "tune" it with you own ears tongue.gif

I just replaced back the original coils, I felt that the bass have better control over my donuts doh.gif unsure.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 22 2008, 01:04 PM
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 22 2008, 01:34 PM)
bro ongbs,
you 'donuts' not tasting good, eh? tongue.gif
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hehe, yes...I saw a plastic with copper wire windings in a shop (air-core?) gonna try it when free tongue.gif
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Sep 22 2008, 02:31 PM)
Y.C. haha posible tongue.gif

jazzy i haven downloaded the pdf yet, will do tht tonight smile.gif but i think it should be great, so didnt bother really check it out yet tongue.gif, so no 3 is the best with all the smd cap replace? since the elna is now in, how it compare to just the input smd modded

ongbs, how much are those aircore? 10uh will be kinda big actually...duno those by diyparadise and trends are 10uh or not since they are kinda small...
*
The winding they took out from other electronic component, I didn't know the value and price yet.
btw, it is not a proper retail air core inductor tongue.gif
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 22 2008, 03:40 PM)
I just found out from TA2024 datasheet, the Co caps to be 0.22uF for 8ohms load.. so the SMDs values was correct! tongue.gif
The 0.47uF is for 4 Ohms loads.. doh.gif

Minor mod coming up.. tongue.gif
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You are correct bro, I just soldered out some caps with the following value:
C22, C25 = 0.24uF
C9, C11 = 1.4nF
C6, C7 = 0.1uF

the rest haven't solder out tongue.gif

jazzy, how about C5 and C17? Do you replace them?

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 22 2008, 04:19 PM
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 04:36 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 22 2008, 04:31 PM)
ongbs,
C5 and C17 are 1uF. NO, I did not.
C22, C25,C27,C28 should be the same value. 0.47uF or in our case 0.24uF

Added on September 22, 2008, 4:33 pmTo me it sounds great.
with the caps value changed, so will the the frequency of the filtering... tongue.gif how much? u can calculate. the formula is on the TA2024 datasheet.. hehe
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Yes, I knew that as I only mod 1 side first.
Just took out C16, measured 0.01uF as compare to datasheet 0.1uF sweat.gif
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 04:52 PM

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hehe thanks for your advice bro jazzy,
Although my hand "shaky", I am still "strong" in soldering works tongue.gif
I just finished caps mod for "R" side, hope my ears can "tell" the different or else I gonna stop all further mods....just get stock board and replace only input caps plus power caps doh.gif shakehead.gif hmm.gif
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 05:13 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 22 2008, 04:55 PM)
ongbs,
Hehehe THAT’S good! biggrin.gif
Are you just doing the right side only? hmm.gif
*
have to lah bro...see whether my ear can "smell" it good tongue.gif laugh.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 22 2008, 05:13 PM
ongbs
post Sep 22 2008, 11:26 PM

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bro jazzy,

I just plug in t-amp for testing after "R' side caps mod, I didn't change any resistors tongue.gif

The first minute I plug in, already noticed that the mod R side have louder output, around 10% to 15% louder compare to stock L side.

Haven't note the SQ yet...will further test and report in laugh.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 22 2008, 11:26 PM
ongbs
post Sep 23 2008, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 23 2008, 12:00 AM)
Wah, bro ongbs,
You only tell bro Jazzy alone only.
Can we also ask for poto mali to see your workmanship so far?  drool.gif  drool.gif  drool.gif

Xtorm,
So when are you commencing your SMDs' replacement. BTW, approximately when is 4th shipment arriving?
*
What to do...used to type his nick most laugh.gif
I am actually address it to all bro here smile.gif

My workmanship damn terrible as I kinda like temp fixed all the caps doh.gif
You believe that I just relocated inductor coils below the PCB, then terus replace all new caps...without removing any other components...even the input caps whistling.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 23 2008, 02:40 AM
ongbs
post Sep 23 2008, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 23 2008, 09:58 AM)
Ongbs, no problemo. I was merely teasing you.  tongue.gif
Replacing SMDs with discreet capacitors without removing the input caps is kinda tough job as there is not much space on the board to work with; myself would sure find it a problem later.  sweat.gif
Postlah some pixs to set those of us who have not begun the SMDs replacement (me included) drooling.  drool.gif

Jazzy, I don't have any grounding issue too.
A close friend of mine actually pulled a dedicated grounding line for his Audio setup (not because he has problem though) and the improvement was audibly superior in all areas - darker background, lower floor noise, subtle details became apparent, sweeting sounding, better definition to bass lines and etc.....  biggrin.gif

Xtorm, fantastic news.  rclxms.gif
I could begin my SMDs replacement soon just like bro Jazzy and bro Ongbs.
*
hehe...lazy (not jazzy doh.gif ) to snap pics lah...too ugly sweat.gif

Actually I didn't use de-soldering tools/ vacuum sucker at all....
I just put some extra solder and with a tweezer, that's all...
see my input caps brows.gif , although I didn't remove them, I need to bend them to side coz some caps are too close!
Power cap (center) moved to bottom side of PCB.

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 23 2008, 10:15 AM


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ongbs
post Sep 23 2008, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Sep 23 2008, 10:16 AM)
Y.C.,
This would be a 'cheaper' alternative to a power conditioner!  rclxms.gif
I believe the improvements would be audible.. KIV this is my 'TO DO' stuffs.. (long list tongue.gif)

Agreed, without removing the stock input caps the Stage 1 would be a real challenge!  laugh.gif ongbs, you must have good soldering skills! biggrin.gif

Eh, you're starting soon eh? Excellent! Waiting for your report.. wink.gif
*
My "modded" input caps bigger and taller than stock caps rolleyes.gif

Initial test I felt that it lost some higher end details but with some "harshness" removed as well.
More focus mid and deeper bass. Burn in more hours should get better results! laugh.gif

I know how to solder but workmanship shakehead.gif shakehead.gif shakehead.gif doh.gif

This post has been edited by ongbs: Sep 23 2008, 11:01 AM

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