Jazzy,
Both Lai and I are using the same SMPS as yours with our main T-amps now (we heard how good it is during our first t/t session). It sure is excellent stuff with 4.2A on tap and its DC voltage could be increased to 14V max. Even at 12V setting now, it sounded so much better than my other SMPS – less flat-sounding and less tiring over long period of listening with ample of reserves when demanded upon. I only took 1 shot with my mobile phone - no close ups.


Monkey King,
I’ve just commented positively on the Meanwell S-50-12 SMPS. Perhaps you may like to consider getting it although it’s slightly more expensive over others.


March,
Both Lai and I thought the Vishay MKT1813 2.2uF caps are fabulous sounding (although we have not experiment with many), the sound quality of these caps surpassing that of the highly raved Vishay MKT1822 2.2uF (green square caps) in our 2nd T-amps. You heard them (in Lai’s T-amp) during our first t/t. The lack of power was due to type of SMPS used then.

I'm using a 5Amp SMPS adaptor. Since it is still a stocked t-amp, can't comment much. For those using caged type SMPS, please be extra careful to avoid eletric shock

Name of shop = Online Components S/B

CYL, Thanks, I tested my unit with a test pen and found no current leakage on the cage. However, we do need to be careful with the screw-on connectors behind. For extra precaution, we could consider housing them in plastic casings.

There is a GROUND connection at the SMPS. It's there for a purpose..
The mains ground wire is connected to this point.
Also the SMPS mounting is isolated from the metal casing. SAFETY FIRST!

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 13 2008, 06:26 PM

so this is the one ?



This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 13 2008, 07:19 PM

Go for Meanwell SMPS model S-50-12 and you would not go wrong.

A bit of update on my T-Amp. My final mod to it is I put two 3300uF high quality Rubycon MBZ in series (totalling 1650uF) on power input, I don't think I need the enormous 10000uF like Senior did. I even try several values of tank caps up to 690uF (470+220), finally I settled at 440uF (220uF stock paralled with 220uF Rubycon caps)

After it reaches 20-ish burn-in hour, it started to sound different a little bit. No longer harsh like before, its smooth the high a little bit. Even though my current amp is without buffer unlike Senior did, but I like it sound to be a bit dry, for me its better to be dry than been surrounded by bass since my room is small

Oh, I forgot, I powered my T-Amp with my computer PSU, all 33A continuous current available on 12V rail at my disposal It sounded great, with no noise whatsoever, except if I play games when the PSU is been loaded, but I minimize it with enabling Vsync (limiting framerate to vertical refresh rate of the monitor). Something on my graphic card generating that noise, most modern mid to high end cards develop that annoying noise when in 3D games

Thanks for sharing, Najmods.

I had mentioned that my T-amp with use of Meanwell S-50-12 SMPS sounded substantially better than with computer-notebook-style SMPS. In what manner? The sound becomes fuller, more 3 dimensional (less flat-sounding) and the amplifier behaves like a real 50 watter instead of a mere 20 watter.



This post has been edited by Y.C.: Nov 18 2008, 12:54 PM

so much different, planing to get the smps too next time im nearby. passed few days was there but work till 5++ which i thik not a good time anymore, dont wana reach office at 8...hahaha

Hmmm, I had a close look at some Meanwell models at one shop today. Just ok ok lah. Anyway, I've a feeling the 50W SMPS for your T-Amp is insufficent current, but bare minimum. You should think that the T-Amp would prefer power supply from something like a car battery (60Ampere hour) where its got ample DC current on tap.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Nov 14 2008, 07:56 PM

Thanks, bsl

The wiki of diyAudio.com (http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Class+D+Amplification) states that 3A – 5A regulated supply is typically aplenty as the T-amps only draw about 300mA with a musical signal, with many speakers. Even when a battery is to be used, its recommended amperage-hour is 7Ah. Why do you feel a need for such high current of 60Ah for the T-amps?

Its impossible the Tripath chip draws 300mA with musical signal. Musical signal consists of wide frequency changes and the current draw will vary with the music where there's bass and large volume change, something like what you notice on a VU meter. 60AHour is the rated battery capacity and obviously there's ample current on tap. Of course the amp won't draw the full amount, even the car headlights won't draw that much. The fact remains that a car battery have ample current capacity and will not compromise the potential of the T-amp.

Y.C.,
I am with you. The Class D(Class T incase of Tripath) amplification is of high efficiency design(90%, 10W @ 8 ohm)), infact 1A is already aplenty. And our 50W SMPS is way overboard!
But I have a reason for that. The same SMPS will also powers my pre-amp and also for bi-amping.


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jazzy, your quotable quote are getting nice and long

Ongbs measure it before, max was still under 2 amp i think, driving his 3x8" floor stander

I’m sure bsl meant well. He has always been stressing the importance of having adequate power supplies for phono preamps and now the T-amp.

I’d fully agree that the TA2024 chip does not only draw 300mA constantly with musical signal all the time as very loud and complex music passages with lots of bass will definitely draw more current. And with difficult load loudspeakers (their impedances dipping very low), the T-amp will require even more current. Question is, is 4.2A of Meanwell SMPS really insufficient? Jazzy seems to think otherwise and Xtorm quoted a measurement by Ongbs before.

My take is, with the T-amp driving medium sensitivity loudspeakers of benign loads and music not being played to headbanging levels, 4.2A should be sufficient. I could be wrong though. Powering the T-amp with a car battery may be a costly affair and it (the battery) needs regular charging too.

Yes, surely he was and thank you for your timely reminders and pointers bsl!

Y.C.,
you may have a point there, and the T-Amp will more likely to go into clipping and drain more power hence the emphasis on high efficiency speakers

I do have a 'spare' car battery around somewhere.. may try it out and see(hear) if there would any difference in the sonics.. my gut feeling say it would be most probably in the low band/frequencies region... depend on your equipments also. I would say the choice on the type of PS is more on personal preferences and conveniences...

I have two more types of caps to try out.. so it's a good excuse to open up the casing and at the same time try out the car battery..
Will revert if I have the chance to do it, maybe tonite..

Looks like we may even delve into which car battery drives the T-amp better! It has been my intention all along to drive my T-amp off batteries ....anyway, I use batteries extensively to keep some equipment isolated from the unreliable mains. Because I want to stay portable with the TA2024, this is also a natural path for me to take (KISS!).

Perhaps at the next TT session, we can do a comparison, eh?

bro March,
That is a great idea!
Yes, on the next TT Session, it would be interesting to know as such. We'll call it Battle Of The Lead Acids!
Anyway, I can barely remember something on a certain types(brand name) of lead acid batteries that sounded better than some other brands.. no not the batt sounded better, the equipment that is! (pagi2 punya joke) I think its a certain type/brand of SLAs that they were using for the T-Amp.. So, would there be differences between SLAs and CAR BATT?

I am keen also to find out as my current buffer preamp is running off a 9V batt. It sounded 'clean' and 'crisp' and I am wondering,'what if the T-Amp is also batt powered?"
Bro March, you should compare the passive pre and this buffer pre.

So, next best questions are, TT Session, when and where?

jazzy bro, I have this unerring inkling sooner or later, I will.

But I think I'm getting an overdose of equipment at the moment....new T-amps, passive preamp, the newly modded CA640P with ultra-beefed up PSU (thanks to bsl555), my HB2 is back in the system (but one tweeter is definitely in the pits, it's ringing like hell), and I'm still finetuning the GyroDec.....my heart can't take it anymore. Not to mention, the Philips SHE9850 IEM is now settling quite nicely and pulling me totally in a different direction - IEMs are so antisocial, right?

Anyway, I will do a bit of comparing between a 7 aH SLA battery and a 60 aH SLA car battery with the TA2024 in stock form first, since these are at hand.

March05: I could have passed you some length of domestic electrical wiring cable if you've said you have intention of using battery for the T-amp. The cables would do good for sure.