hello ppl...does anyone know which top coat provides the same effect as the pics in the model kit manual? Semi-gloss or flat?

This post has been edited by Aeon_Clock: Nov 21 2008, 11:27 AM

some of the manual has flat some have semi gloss finish..

i'll give some eg..

flat (look at those light brown area)
almost flat (brown area)



satin (something like flat but reflects some light, blue area)


semi-gloss (beige color area)

the degree of gloss or flatness depends on the amount of flatbase added, the more the flatter (usually we apply wt airbrush)
for can spray, it's available in gloss, satin (oso semi-gloss, the distinction is small with satin somehow slightly flatter) and flat/matt

using can spray u can achieve:
flat (look at those light brown area)
and
satin (something like flat but reflects some light, blue area)
and gloss (which i don have pic ref but u'll get those glossy like new car paint gloss)

also this is assumed u've trained urself to use can spray as most new modellers tend to spray too thick, end up complaining y can't achieve those effect.
the key is practise.
and oso keep the distance fr the spray, and keep moving while u spray.
wat u wan achieve is a thin layer BUT with sufficient coverage.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 21 2008, 12:10 PM

but gloss have to polish no? if not not really bling bling.

yes, gloss as we generally classify is the surface is gloss enuf to reflect clearly the light source and see our reflection.
to be a perfect showroom car gloss, ur paint must be SMOOTH and GLOSS
it's easier to achieve gloss but not SMOOTH with AB or canspray.
that is y must polish.
the SMOOTH i'm refering here is when u have a fluorescent light (not round bulb) reflected on ur paint surface, u'll get a perfect straight line image. if u have small bumps or micro-orange peel, the line will APPEAR crooked or wavy. how SHARP is the image will be HOW GLOSS is the paint.
SMOOTHNESS IS all about reflection and the way we FINISH of our paint spraying, either by practise or by polishing.
GLOSSINESS is the type and brand of paint, u cant do much if we both use gunze lacquer, but d way u paint and i may differs

hope it explains why..

thanks for the info. I think what I'm looking for is satin...like in this pic of Throne Zwei. How do I get satin can spray? I thought it only comes in gloss, semi and flat?

no, I dun have any experience in spraying. But I might have some old models I can use to test before using on the actual item.




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try with semi-gloss/satin (forgot the label, but it shud be either one, definitely not gloss or flat)

if u experience enuf, u can achiece those effect stil wt gloss type, by applying mist layer.

if u use semi-gloss/satin, the effect would be less glossier than the pic u use, but still okay i guess
remember, spray less, less is more. and keep moving while spraying, u wouldnt want the topcoat to accumulate at certain spots..

less glossy is alright...no need to be so perfect for me. Its not for any competition

this one is using flat Top Coat rite? There's no light reflection at all. Its quite nice though.


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this one consider quite flat d..
something like dis http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910
see post no 10# by heatdriv3
he is using an airbrush but if u use flat can spray, u'll get something like his as well..

I need some help here from all you sifus...very new in painting..
1. can anyone tell me where to get reasonable paint for model kit...
2. what are the 3 colours in the picture and the brand i should go for....

Thank you in advance....



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many paint from miniature r quite old n might be dried oledi, which u need extra steps to do in order to use them. Try time square - time machine, afhobby, and HHQ in city square/crown princess hotel. i think they just have new stock, with old price, and think got sale now too.

As for color.......... i dont think anyone can tell u what code is that. in fact, try not to follow code blindly. use your eyes, to judge. create something outta your own taste....... this is the fun part of it. unless u r doing something that "must" follow a certain color.......

i wanna ask about decals.

i know how to apply decal for kotobukiya but however i got no idea how to apply for MG decals provided from the box. i dont know what they are!

is the greener one same as kotobukiya's apply water method, remove layer and stick?

and rough one for scratching?

where can i find a good link for this? i tried dannychoo and some others. not much a good tutorial there.. wanna know about the scratch type.

looking at my mk2 and wing custom decal's makes me sick

green one is actually sticker decal... use setter for that....

the white one is dry-scratch decal, use fingernail or stirring spatula to scratch it on ur kit...

dun use finger nail...
use something flat and easy to scribe like a coin....

thanks a lot....

I'm a newbie in painting Gundam...Everytime the gundam that I have assembled has poor colouring. So, I'm thinking of painting it. I know that the best way is to use the air brush. But, the compressor is too expensive to me. May I ask can I use the compressor that used in the bike shop to fill air into the tyre?

use setter? means the water removing decal method? izit?/


anyways thanks guy. my gunpla will soon look abit prettier =p

so long that you have a pressure regulator (with a psi meter even better) , a bigger compressor with a large storage tank even better... few minutes of compressing and you can use for the whole day or even longer.... you may need a water trap too.....

You can pressurize a tire's inner rubber tube to store enough air for a few rounds of painting, too...

some artist even forgo this... they use their lips and their set of lungs and just blow to provide the air pressure needed for painting with their airbrush..

This post has been edited by BeastX: Nov 23 2008, 05:23 PM

Thanks for your advising...Can you teach me a little more about the big compressor. So I can use the one in the factory without buying the mini compressor.

All you need is an adjustable pressure regulator, airbrush needs relatively low pressure, fittings & adaptors to down size or fit male to female threads so you can connect the pressure regulator and tubes to the airbrush... That's it...

U probably only need a regulator up to 0.5M Pascal or 73 psi, but usually around 20 to 30 psi will do fine...

Bro actually if u want a really cheap compressor u can go for this : Tamiya Basic Air Compressor

It comes with a single action air brush and is very cheap... i got mine for only RM 200... thats about the price of your Mastergrade kit... so why not get one of this instead ?

Its amazing for its price, by the way... powered by a 7.2v ni-cad battery... lasts around 15 minutes continuously.... ( honestly i have NEVER turned it on longer than that... and as soon as i stop painting, i swtiched it off... )

Theres no pressure regulator or anything else... its basically just " fill the cup and spray, rinse and repeat "... great for airbrush newbies like me.

It saves ur trouble of getting other airbrush parts... and its really light and portable.

U can check on ebay for this airbrush..... just my suggestion..