1. Hehee..... i m quite an old school person; everything based on feel n experience; sorry cant really give you the ratio. but usually the paint is a little thinner than milk.

2. different psi gives u different effect. if u r doing cars with high shine paint, i would recommend a low psi; for shading or gradient, high psi. To me, i set the psi, spray a little n see the effect. tune it untill i like it. Yes 10 psi is pretty common i guess.

3. Yes, i think the thinner in the paint will definitely react with the base paint or primer, especially u r doing wet coat; eg on high shine car models. However, dont worry too much, the reaction is very light n slow; moreover, u r not touching the wet surface, hence there's no interferance in between layers of paint n primer.

Eg, u try putting your finger on the surface after u have a layer of wet coat, u will realise ur finger will pull out not only the paint u have just sprayed, but the layer of paint or primer underneath it too. It should be an evidence of the lower layer has chemical reaction.

So for car or high shine parts which i need to wetcoat, normally i will first spray a thin layer of paint, before it got totally dried, i will do my heavy wet coat. So the chemical reaction with primer will be minimized; yet the layer is still wet enough to have the leveling ability with the wet coat layer.


4. Yes, if the moist trap has water in it, it means it is working nicely, trapping the air inside n not letting the water to be sprayed together with your paint into the air.

Thanks

Wah, long time never come here sibuk. This thread is still alive

Kevinn7, if you like to know more about auto modelling, try here:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMalaysia
or alternatively, clicking on rayloke's signature will bring you to zerogunz.
There are more people doing cars/autos there and their WIP has more info for you to learn more about making cars.


Any, I my attempt to answer some of your queries if you don't mind..

1) & 2)
I suppose you wonder the effects of paint finishing (gloss, matt, orange peel, etc) with changes in paint thinning and airbrush setting.

Ok, since 1) and 2) are related, I shall explain together.
Like what been explain, the faster the paint dry the coarser the paint dries (ie. rough, matt or flat).
The only way to get a smooth surface and glossy is a wet coat spray where you spray the plastic surface with paint until it turns "wet", but not too much until you get runny paints.
I think 10psi is too low for wet coat as the paint emmission is too slow for the paint to build up a wet-coat.
By the time it build sufficiently thick enough coat, most of the paint on the surface has dried and more paint landing on dried/semi dried surface will create a flat-look.
To get a satisfactory glossy surface, you need to get the job done fast.
How fast? Google on youtube on those car makers, you know how fast you need to work with your airbrush.
They usually spray with higher psi around 18-25, and moving the hand fast to cover as much area with paint as even and smooth.
Spraying with low psi takes longer and risk the danger of paint pooling/accumulating.

Besides, I assume you spray semi-gloss paint to get semi-gloss finishing, flat to get flat and gloss to get gloss.
Spraying on a flat/rough surface will get you a flat/semi-gloss or rough finishing despite you are spraying with a gloss paint on top. So, make your primed surface matches your finishing need.

As for thinning, it's really very versatile.
Some prefer thinner, some thicker.
Thinner paint means runnier paint and require thinner paint layer, but more layer.
Thicker paint means less layer but risk of orange peel/ paint pooling.
It's up to individual to adjust to their need. Key is practice. Get some disposable plastic spoon to practice your airbrush if you're not confident


3) For clear coat on painted surface, it's about paint on paint.
I believe you should already know the basics of paint strength (acrylics < enamel < lacquer)
Never get a stronger paint type on top of a weaker (that's why primer are usually lacquer base).
Same type paint on top of each other is OK.
And whenever you need to spray another paint (clear is also a paint) on top another paint, make sure the first spray is always a mist coat. Because a wet coat will carry sufficiently enough thinner to do much damage on the paint beneath (eg. paint smearing).
Once the first 2-3 mist coat has dried on top of the lower paint layer (say 3 mist coat of clear on a painted white surface), the successive wet coat of clear will do sufficiently damage/or so call bonding to the clear coat, but will not reach the white layer paint.
Had you skipped the mist coat step, your wet clear coat will directly react with white and get smearing all across.


4) Of course there will be vapor, so after every wet coat, always allow 1-2 days for it to "gas-out".
Try touch with your fingers, if finger print stays.. (not oily finger prints), that means your paint is still soft and not fully cured.
Wait for it to fully cure before another wet coat (if necessary).


Hope it helps

Yeah.. that website is awesome.. ehehe

1 &2) Ok. I have a clearer picture on the PSI settings now.
In terms of thinning, I think I will stick with thinner paint, sounds safer. At least until I'm comfortable taking a step higher.

3) I did not know the rule of "acrylics < enamel < lacquer" until you told me. Thanks for the heads up. hehe
I think I will go for 2 mist coats, put in my decals, another 3 mist coats and one final wet coat. Slowly sand it down with 800 then 1000 grit sandpaper and then polish. Sounds ok right?

4) I was referring to the machine pump itself that has a glass like reservoir.
I think I will leave the car for a few days without having any sort of contact, wanna play safe ehhe...

Thanks for your help!

kevinn7：Seems like we have another car model enthusiast here (Is kinda lonely doing automobile here in KL. The forum erh_Teo intro u, u can find a modeler's work-in-progress of a Impreza. He's a very good car modeler, mebbe u guys would click. I do cars too, but i suck at that

Hi All,

Would anyone know where to buy the crystals for modding. I can see some models have this at the gun sights and looks very nice.

Any suggestions?

crystals???
you mean lens right?

What kind of models do you build?

U can get it online, search for adlest nest or hiq .

example:
http://www.hlj.com/product/HQPSPE60DR


Or u can use epoxy glue to make your own:
tutorial:
http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=6437

z3r0717

Should be....most of the time I see it used on gun sights..was wondering where I could get it.

---

Added on April 1, 2010, 12:58 amThanks rayloke

This post has been edited by Jetpeh: Apr 1 2010, 12:58 AM

It would be preferably applying decals on gloss surface to avoid any "silvering" effect on the decals.
Silvering (Frost-like-effect under clear film of decals) will happen when you apply decals on top of flat/matt surface.
Since you are going to paint white, can apply decals before top-coat wt clear. Just make sure your white is gloss enough.

Any1 can guide me how to paint clear blue on clear parts? i find it hard

Hehe.. Thanks !!

how are you painting the clear paints?
First you need Clear blue paint...
For hand painting is difficult for large parts.... It's best using AirBrush...
If tiny parts, can just dip the whole thing in but becareful too...

For Example,

look at all the clear parts, all have been done using AirBrush except the blue part on its head because it was small, i just dip the whole thing in and let it dry aside..

z3ro717, already finish ur ingram but never post one???

stephen5577, or alternatively you can try this:
http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=6488

seeing you guys at work here make me feel so tiny. i have msa-0011 s gundam at home which i built to pass the time at best. no thorough works. cheers to all. your handiwork really made my day

No sweat pakwan.. i believe every one of them started small just like anyone of you guys who just started the same hobby.

Only time and passion that propel you further

Thanks for the guide guys~ Hand paint is seriously hard as its very sticky

stephen, do remember hand brushing is a not to be forgotten stuff in modelling.
The reason ur hand painting fail because of the thinning.
Either too thick or too thin, that's all.

Simple, if you are trying too hard to get it right and it still don't.. probably something is wrong somewhere.. You can never get it right if you repeat the same thing again and again.

Come here and ask again.. sure there'll be generous souls to help

i post in FB only.. hehe... rubber not done so didn't post at zero g