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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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VHunter
post Feb 3 2009, 11:10 AM

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I will getting a Super Clear Flat this weekend to flatten my 00 Gundam. Now the question is:
1) How many layers of spray should I go for? Will the paint turns whiter and whiter when I spray for layer of Clear flat onto it?

2) Can clear parts be flatten? Planning to paint the clear part black and then flatten the black, can this be done?


erh_teo
post Feb 3 2009, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(VHunter @ Feb 3 2009, 11:10 AM)
I will getting a Super Clear Flat this weekend to flatten my 00 Gundam. Now the question is:
1) How many layers of spray should I go for? Will the paint turns whiter and whiter when I spray for layer of Clear flat onto it?
i suggest u get the mr.topcoat (blue color can).
it's more forgiving than mr. super clear (grey can).
in case screw-up u can remove with window cleaner (can get from giant, tesco, any home departmental store).
if u screw up with mr. super clear.. bye bye liao.
i recommend mist/thin layer each time u spray.
let the paint totally dry (2-3 hours) and see the "flatness". no enough flat go 2-3 more layers.
usually one thick coat may cause "frosting" or uneven patches of semi-gloss to matt area.



2) Can clear parts be flatten? Planning to paint the clear part black and then flatten the black, can this be done?
*
yess. flat coat will flatten/frost clear parts. either assemble the clear parts later or mask the clear parts.
if u spray clear part black then flat-coat it, it will be flat black. blush.gif
of course it can be done, but is that what u wanted hmm.gif ?
VHunter
post Feb 3 2009, 01:58 PM

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Blue can hard to find actually, which is why I am getting the grey can.

Actually the black part is just one section of the clear part, if I don't flat coat it, might as well I use the stickers. Because I takut it makes the black reflective.
erh_teo
post Feb 3 2009, 02:03 PM

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if u use cautiously and dun over-spray, the grey type in fact will give a more durable finishing than the blue type one.

just becareful.

of the black part with one section of clear, i've no idea how it looks like.. so couldn't comment much.. smile.gif
VHunter
post Feb 3 2009, 02:06 PM

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Would it help if I snap a picture of that particular part?
erh_teo
post Feb 3 2009, 02:12 PM

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definitely..

a pic tell a thousand words.. tongue.gif
VHunter
post Feb 3 2009, 02:28 PM

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Here it is. Note the triangle looking part at the middle. Planning to mask the 2 sides when I want to flat coat the middle part.

Attached Image

EDIT: Do note that I haven't started painting it.

This post has been edited by VHunter: Feb 3 2009, 02:29 PM
davelcm
post Feb 3 2009, 04:46 PM

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well, i can't see much fr the picture...so not sure which part u're tryin to flat coat.
KamenChaos
post Feb 3 2009, 04:56 PM

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He said the middle part of the part lo....
This must be 00 GN Sword II
davelcm
post Feb 3 2009, 05:11 PM

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yeah, he said middle...but he oso mentioned the triangle looking part in the middle. and it's suppose to be clear? since he oso said he hasn't started painting it. fr that pic, kinda hard to be sure.
VHunter
post Feb 3 2009, 06:59 PM

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It is clear, the middle part. And yes, it is from the GN Sword II.
davelcm
post Feb 3 2009, 09:45 PM

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ok....somehow the pic wasnt clear when i viewed it in my office. i think u've got the idea on wat to do already. mask both the sides which u want to keep clear. then spray flat coat in the middle part.
Luen
post Feb 3 2009, 11:54 PM

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erm if my decal 'silvered' is there any way to salvage it? lol
VincC454
post Feb 4 2009, 12:02 PM

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now me also wanna ask something here

izzit possible to remove a water slide decal without damaging the paint painted below it?
erh_teo
post Feb 4 2009, 01:20 PM

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soaking in warm + detergent water don't help?

otherwise from wat i've read, a riskier method..
using masking tape and mask over the decal.. burnish the masking tape and peel.
chances of getting paint peel off will be there.
what is the paint brand used?


VincC454
post Feb 4 2009, 01:39 PM

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normal mr hobby paint
my unicorn la..the samuel decal screwed up already
all yellowish doh.gif

screw samuel doh.gif
davelcm
post Feb 4 2009, 01:54 PM

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did u topcoat the kit before puttin on the water slide decals? if yes, using the masking tape method would help. actually use a stronger adhesive type like cellophane tape. oh yeah, having primed the kit before doing standard painting would also help minimize paint being peeled together with the decal.

to remove water slide can use other methods too.
1) use hobby knife n gently scrape off the decal
2) wet sand the area off

anyway, decals will always yellow. although usually not too fast considering that you're using it on MG Unicorn. but exposure to sunlight and moisture usually does quicken the yellowing. the yellowing is becos of the glue on waterslide. a chemical effect.

what i usually do is...scrape the decal off or if small...peel using cellotape. then if there's a slight discoloration, respray to touch up that small area.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Feb 4 2009, 01:56 PM
VincC454
post Feb 4 2009, 02:11 PM

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yellowish over many years is ok
but yellowish over not even a months is what doh.gif


edan1979
post Feb 4 2009, 03:04 PM

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hehehe... got 1 samuel decal batch got this problem one... some old decal i use all still ok.. but got 2-3 new decal already yellow even i still havent use it yet...
erh_teo
post Feb 4 2009, 06:07 PM

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so unlucky la u vince..

but i'm curious why u wanna get samuel's one for unicorn.
bandai aftermarket one look's good wat.. or cannot get?

anyway.. do let us know if u found a method that works tongue.gif ...

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