yes. do it with your brush. i normally use humbrol enamel paint. more choices compared to tamiya.

dont worry, if u afraid might spoil your kit, test paint else where first. anyway, the good thing about enamel paint is u can try paint and if u dont like it, can just wash it away on the spot.

if u r doing gundam, u dont have to worry much about body of the weathering since the scale is small; what i m talking here is like the thickness of mud et.

also since u have some experience dealing with enamel, i guess u should know the effect of tuppertine. i recommend get distilled tuppertine from artshop.

another very important thing in weathering is pastel. get those pastel color (Without oil), sand with sandpaper n collect the dust, use a cotton bud to apply. it wont stick that much, but give a very natural effect.

example:






ah one last thing, weathering is a very long process, must be patient. normally my time used for weathering is average 3x the time i apply the base color.

hope to see ur work soon. it's too little people in gunpla doing weathring......

@ rayloke

ahah thanks for the explanation, im doing weathering for my military airplane model kit, its nth much thou, i skipped alot of step and just apply this weathering just to know about the feel of it, doesnt have much time to invest on this kind of hobby ><

pastels also can be used eh? haha just learned about it now.. thanks for the tip.. hope i can find the time to at least learn about weathering ><

@ erh_teo

thanks for the website hehe

This post has been edited by Luen: Jan 20 2009, 06:16 PM

erh_teo,

Yes, I'm talking about Mr.Base White 1000. U dun need to say sorry, instead I should thank u for correcting me


-Kouichi-,

I'm sorry

This post has been edited by blowsperior: Jan 21 2009, 12:18 AM

airplane..... then i think with enamel paint wash n a little pastel will do.

ah...... makes my hand itchy wanna start a project with weathering d.......

I need some help on panel line drawing.Right now my paint coating is like this:

Bare Plastic --> Mr Hobby Paint (Lacquer) --> Super Clear top coat
I'm using Gundam Marker GM01 as the lining.Is there a way to do correction on the Gundam marker or a proper way of doing lining with my type of coating. I've read the gundam tutorial on panel lining but it seem from the picture the correction was done on a bare plastic.

Any help will be appriciated.

my suggestion: forget about marker and use enamel paint for panel lining.

1. enamel comes with lots of color ( i use humbrol). Besides that, even if you only can afford 2~3 colors, mixing does creates thousands of colors and tones. u can have black, grey, light grey, light light grey, not so light grey, brown, rust, maroon, gold, silver etc color for panel lines; depends on your needs n the color of your kit.

2. if you cover it well, one bottle of enamel paint that only used for panel lining can almost last you forever. in long run, it's so much cheaper than using marker, with the benefit of more color choices.

3. when u start using enamel paint, and start building up your colors, later u ll have one more option to choose to color your kit. my experience with Humbrol enamel is, once it's dried, it will not melt. even i use industrial thinner, the most is it ll peel off bits by bits. imagine if you use enamel as base, where the base color will not melt again, how much more effect u can do on the surface?

4. Panel line is actually something "fake" in modeling, So the last thing u want is to make it more fake; which marker is good in doing so. Using enamel to fill panel lines gives u a more natural finishing. This is also the reason most pro use paint instead of marker.

Sorry, this is out of topic already.

As for marker, sorry i havent used any...so cant give u any advice....

I was also planning on using enamel paint for lining.The problem is most of the shop i went to is out of stock on enamel paint.That's why at the moment I'm using Gundam Marker.Another thing is I want to know how correct any error in lining using both method of gundam marker and enamel paint.

Hi all,

I posted this on the general enquiries but no reply, so gonna try here too Hope that's ok


I'm looking for affordable airbrush set to start up. Any idea where is the best place to go? Both airbrush and compressor.

Thanks

ADD:

Is this set consider good for beginner to mid level usage? (Compressor ok?) RM400+ for the set ok?


Many thanks smile.gif

Specification:

* Auto Stop Pressure Switch
* Power:1/4 HP (60W)
* Never needs lubrication.
* maintenance free.
* Air Flow: 68L/min
* Max.Pressure:3.5Bars
* Max. Working Pressure: 50psi
* Coil Spring PU Hose: 6mm OD x 3 Meter
* Electric Cable:1.2M
* 1/4" Air Outlet Thread
* Mini body air compressor for your easy handling and storage.
* Low noise. 50dB
* A good help in your painting, spraying and inflating jobs.
* Approx. Length: 190mm
* Approx. Width : 100mm
* Approx. Height: 150mm
* Approx. Weight: 4.1Kgs

Airbrush Specification:

* Air Consumption: 15~30Psi
* Double-action Trigger Air-Paint Control
* Gravity Feed
* Top Mounted 7cc Fluid Cup with Snap On Lid
* 0.3 mm Nozzle
* Light weight Alloy Steel
* Back Screw Spray Control
* Precise Air Point Control
* Spanner, Eye Dropper and Case Included
* Ideal for Crafts, Fingernails and Automotive Painting



Content:

* Mini Air COMPRESSOR
* PU Coil Spring Hose 6mm O.D x 3 Meter
* Pen Type Mini Airbrush

for enamel paint, u got like 15 to 20 minutes to do correction. once it's cure, it cannot be wiped.

you can try HHQ for humbrol enamel.

erm just another nub question,

i used MR.hobby black color + water, to do some weathering, maybe i bought the wrong turpentine and it cant mix with the MR.hobby color so i used water instead, lazy to go out n get a new thinner or turpentine..

so i used it as a weathering to my model aircraft.. my question is will this weathering wear off overtime? like it will slowly slowly go away maybe in years to come, or it will stay, without a flat coat on it of course, i do not have them atm and i dun think i will buy one haha..

EDIT: forgot to mention, its just the surface of the plastic, without any primer or anything, no watsoever paint too before the weathering, just pure from the runner --> weathering

This post has been edited by Luen: Jan 23 2009, 01:17 AM

it's ok man

ray already mentioned, try HHQ
search back 2-3 pages back i think i tried to answer similar questions b4, or u can click "Show posts by this member only" at my post, will show all the post i posted in this thread, easier to find it

got pic, i supposed it has an air tank?
the specs should be ok.
or try this fella, from sunway (KL/PJ)
http://mgs2u.com/index/


taukeh.. itu mr.hobby color is water based, turpentine is oil-based, that's y it wont mix ma
u need to get either tamiya enamel or humbrol to work with turpentine/oil wash method.
weathering shud stay but it's still better to topcoat for further protection dude.

last part i dun get u.. u dun plan to paint ur kit?

anyway, a ref to ur weathering without painting will look like this:
http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=5053

happy modelling

Err guys, i've posted a keroro camo in the WIP thread, any ideas why i get flaking between the colours? drying time not long enough or problems with blur tag? TQ.

dunno oso..

pic not that clear of the "flaked" part. is it paint lifting off when u pull the blue tac?

i knw:
mr.hobby color easier to chip/flake than mr.color
no primer or unclean painted/bare plastic easier to chip
blue tac new one prob easier to coz chipping.

i tried blue tac masking on my 144 plane no problem wor.
i primed my kit as usual, i sprayed mr.color, thin layer, use old blue tac (with many paint residue ), masked paint, pull out, ok wor..

@rayloke
thanks for ur info on the panel lining using enamel paint.....but still there's 1 problem while using enamel paint....mostly u'll need to scratch the lining 1st before u using enamel paint right??tis is the most concern part for me if using enamel paint as I'm unable to find the appropriate tool for line scratching....even if i get the appropriate tools there is still much skill needed to scratch error-free panel line.....i currently having problem to scratch those curved line....any tips to share about it and can u provide me some info on the appropriate tools use for panel line scratching??

thanks in advanced.......

unfortunately everything thing in this universe changes. So do paints, even top coat. Especially with oxygen(air) n ultraviolet ray (light).

However, without top coat, paint underneath, without protection, fade even faster.

if u dont do painting but just do weathering, it ll very much depends how long the color pigment in the bare plastic can tahan lor. remember, even bare plastic's color also fade.

P/S: doing air craft without coloring? this is not gundam wor. without color, scale model normally looks single tone. your landing gear tyre will be the same color as the body of your plane wor. You sure don want to color?



If u r doing Gundam, do not need to scrib most of the panel lines. The ones comes with the model kit usually r good enough (Deep enough) for enamel panel lining d. except for certain spot without panel line, but u want to put some ink there, then u gotta scribe new line. what i mean is something like this (erh_Teoh, i use your picture:)



Of course, if there r not too many of them, or located in less visible area, can sometimes "curi ayam" use marker. (Which is not recommended )

As for scribe line tools and technique, i just posted last page, in page 57 in this thread ma. They r not expensive. needle (u can curi from your mom), pin vise (Get one from hardware shop, around RM7), dymo tape (RM5 something), masrking tape n cutter (can curi from your office).

but one important note: if u got caought stealing, dont tell anyone i told you to...

@rayloke

erm i have done abit of research, and my plane is the F-18/E Super Hornet, most of it is grey in color, i painted some parts like the wheel, the landing gear, wheel chamber, and the ekzos *how to spell* lol.. thats all i did, i went for minimal coloring, i do admit i hate the original plastic grey color, but after i done abit weathering on it as in to show the 'aging' of the plane, it looks ok >< guess it just suit my eye hehe, dun have much time on spending time on this hobby >< i can only throw out a limited time for it

guess i will just be happy that i stil have tat limited time to spend on this ambitious hobby of mine


@erh_teo

haha i dun have experience on these colors >< thanks for the advice hehe *no wonder it didnt mix lol*

This post has been edited by Luen: Jan 24 2009, 02:12 AM

cool Luen! to me, this is a hobby, and as long as we r happy with it! keep it up man!

man, the colors are already fading lol, does it have to do with me mixing the Mr.Hobby paint with water that affected its durability? i bought a top coat and spray on it thou, maybe the top coat eat away the color haha,

now i use the normal color pencil that children use to re-color it darker.. dunno if that will stay or its temporary again, guess when u do it 'cheapo' way, the durability also 'cheapo' way hahaha

is there anyway to preserve these weatherings? if not guess i have to recolor it with color pencil everytime the color fades LOL

This post has been edited by Luen: Jan 24 2009, 01:16 PM

how long the kit's been there? usually even without top coat,no direct sunlight, can last at least a year or two.....

Hai Guys... i want to ask a very noob q. what is the difference between Mr Surfacer 1000 n Mr Surfacer 1200??

i know both r primers but whats the 200 different for??

any1 who can reply my q is most welcome k. tq