if possible, use true 63/37. it's supposed to be much easier to suck it up. i use 350c, touch the joint with tinned soldering iron for a second or two, then release the primed desoldering pump. just did it just now to fix my backspace on this 60%.

What defines a 'true' 63/37? I'm using this:
RM6.00  | 50G 100G 63/37 60/40 99.3 Soldering Lead Wire Solder Lead Free 0.3MM 0.8MM 1.0MM Rosin Core Flux Tin Copper Sn Pb Cu | https://s.lazada.com.my/s.bsdbi

I have my cheapo desoldering iron that I reviewed in the last thread. While it does get hot enough to melt my 63/37 joints, it can't suck it cleanly like it did the lead free solder. The pump action is also slow like somehow my solder/soldering technique created an air tight seal that the factory did not. Really don't know how to explain it better.

Edit: oh I'm also not using a soldering station, so no temp settings here. Still using my Hakko Presto with Hakko chisel tip.

the true 63/37 solder is supposed to be relatively easier to solder and desolder, compared to 60/40, or lead free solder.

the problem is that some brands, like the one you're using, labelled everything as 63/37, but its actual content is determined by model number, especially the variant of the same model number. (model a, b-1, etc.) to avoid such confusions, just grab something like mechanic hx-t100. you can find it at shopee.

imo the slow pump action might mean it's cloaked. just clean up the desoldering pump regularly. soldering irons with temperature control are more like convenience. i don't think it's your issue.

edit:

for now i'm using kester (flux 245; core 58; 0.6mm). it flows very nicely. i learned to feed solder at a certain length for each joint to avoid overflowing.

Pump is not clogged, it works fine in the air and also if I put the mouth flat on a clear piece of PCB (while cold). But put it in a 63/37 solder joint and melt it and it becomes slow. Did not happen with the lead free solder. I wish I had another prebuilt board with lead free solder joints to confirm this but I don't.

At long last my mods are (mostly) done.
[attachmentid=10524440]

All switches spring swapped to 67g, bag lubed with Krytox 105. Sliders lubed with Krytox 205. Filmed with TX films.
Foam layer between plate and PCB, foam inside bottom case underneath PCB, top case spray painted.
Stab housings lubed with Krytox 205, wires checked for straightness, lubed with superlube. Attached to plate with PTFE tape to eliminate wobble. PCB band aid modded with cloth band aid and lathered in Superlube.

It is a dream to type on. Sounds wonderful. But the keyboard gods decided to play a cruel joke....

Despite my care during desoldering and soldering, I even did a full tweezer test after desoldering...1 key is not working properly. Luckily it is about the only key(yes I have used Pause/Break before) I don't ever remember using, right alt.

Switch hitter registers one press and TWO ups.
[attachmentid=10524446]

Keyboard tester registers right alt as left ctrl, left alt, right alt, and right ctrl simultaneously.
[attachmentid=10524447]

Switch is fine. Desoldered and tested with multimeter. Same behaviour on both test software with switch removed and using tweezers. If anyone has any suggestions, I might consider fixing it, but for now I'm going to try not to lose my cool and just live with it.

Anyway...in case anyone is curious about the PTFE mod.
[attachmentid=10524451]

Hohoooo, I thought I was so clever. Never seen anyone else do this. Most people stick more band aid pieces in the gap. I tried that and was not satisfied with the stab wobble. I wrapped some PTFE tape around the housing and voila! No more wobble. I invented a new mod!

Not so fast...Side effect of the way I wrapped the tape is that the stabs don't properly latch onto the plate.... So whenever I pull out a stabilized key, the stabs have a tendency to pop up a bit.
[attachmentid=10524453]

Well you just pop them back in before putting the keycap back on.
[attachmentid=10524454]

No big deal. Highly unlikely to pop up during use since you are pressing down on it. Still trying to stay cool. I have a nicely tuned keyboard. Sounds awesome. Let's not dwell on the imperfections ok.

how is everglide green bamboo compared to holy panda? I saw some reviews from grexer and others in fb mkb group, macam very good.

I bought some gateron browns from quadivos (already got them), but keyboard parts are still coming in and now i already think that i cant be satisfied with gateron browns.

i see drop got holy panda gb ongoing.

GG really rabbit hole
   

how is everglide green bamboo compared to holy panda? I saw some reviews from grexer and others in fb mkb group, macam very good.

I bought some gateron browns from quadivos (already got them), but keyboard parts are still coming in and now i already think that i cant be satisfied with gateron browns.

i see drop got holy panda gb ongoing.

GG really rabbit hole
   

Maybe you should try moyu black. Took me few hours to get used to it but it's awesome. It's very hard and very tactile

but im using unlubed mx blues now i feel my fingers get fatigue from typing sometimes. So i want to opt for something a bit lighter. Moyu black and HP are both heavy too, maybe after lube will feel not-so-heavy cuz smoother (?)

Now i feels bad for not joining the moyu/bamboo GB.

can get direct from taobao ma 
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=589344443796

Cheap tecware tkl phantom ok ma?

For an entry level board I heard it is quite good.

Why do you ask?

I just can't do it. Sorry. Chickened out.

Just a few days ago I saw someone selling KBD19X built with Zilents on mechmarket for only USD350.

A brand new one, kit only, is costing me USD310? Naaa. Even though in my heart I know I'm buying to use and not to flip, it just doesn't feel good to me.

Edit. P.s. sale started at 10pm and there's like 23 units left, so if you are reading this shortly after I posted, you might still be able to get it.

Cheap tecware tkl phantom ok ma?

uh? it's always fine to skip. there will always be the next best thing in the future

but im using unlubed mx blues now i feel my fingers get fatigue from typing sometimes. So i want to opt for something a bit lighter. Moyu black and HP are both heavy too, maybe after lube will feel not-so-heavy cuz smoother (?)

Now i feels bad for not joining the moyu/bamboo GB.

uh? it's always fine to skip. there will always be the next best thing in the future