i've already painted my gundam with aqueos hobby color set but the brush stroke is too horibble for me . n wat i've read it must be mix with Mr. Retarder Mild,



just use my cheap gundam for lab rat..




from xl-shop

the question is
1) so which one thinner should i use? n what the different of this 2 thinners? if u try understand the world that i've bold there, there are sumthing wrong izzit?
2) any method to color the eyes area of my strike (1/144 too small for paint)

bro u need to do some masking before u paint ur kit! It looks.......

ok for ur question the thinner with yellow label are thinner tat already mixed with retarded mild while the blue color one does not.
The eye part tried using some toothpick or needle or other stuff to color it

u mean this one



hahaha. i know its teribble hahaha.., it's my 1st time painting..

oh yeah about masking, mr hobby neo masking should do the job rite even i paint with brush..? i'm just using regular masking tape for this paint..
wat type masking tape in this pic? n how much?

Hoho ShinAsakura, if some problem about gundam marker then find u muhahahhaha

Hope I can done for that

thinner that 0300078(damn again ur nick ) means is not the one you show in the picture
what he mean is leveling thinner...yellow label with blue color writing...search at xl site for the pic

masking neo are liquid...while it really easy to use but it wont do a nice job if you want a straight line masking
you still need the yellow masking tape for it(like the one you post the picture up there) cost your around rm12 average and come in many mm size
depends on how thick you want

regular masking tape also can be use but not recommended as sometimes after paint...the tape can also pull the paint cause the glue on the tape are too strong...

using tamiya masking tape is the best...

one thing about masking neo that never leave it more than 24 hrs after apply it on ur kit...that thing can get very sticky and end up a sticky mess on your kit cause after long time applied it will some sort like melting and hard to remove properly

problem with tiny area to paint can be solve using a very fine tips brush...
can easily find this at time machine BTS..cost around rm14 tamiya brand
of course tiny place painting need a steady hand la...if you tfk too much...then cannot help lo

what thinner need to choose depends one what paint u use....this is deja vu

if it write on the bottle the aqueous thinner(mr hobby green and blue label) - for water base paint

if it write leveling/ thinner only (mr.hobby blue and yellow label) - for oil base paint

lol i forgot to tell him tat part!

lol! tfk too much this mod ar... lmao..

wanted to ask same thng...if wash the ab using industrial paint it wont harm the ab rite? and i dun thnk it will harm the kit coz just wash the ab nt the kit...am i rite or wrong here?

ya lor.. wat da

u mean this thinner?



Mr.Hobby - Mr. Color Leveling Thinner 400ml

Mr. Leveling Thinner is excellent for spray (airbrush) applicators. Mixing Mr. Leveling Thinner into Mr. Color at a ratio of 10 : 10 or 5 : 10 improves coat leveling and increases shine. It dry slowly because of insufficient air current during winter months, you can get a good result after mix Mr. Color Thinner into Mr. Leveling Thinner for your projects.

but i'm just using aqueous acrylic paint.. can ar?

^ cannot
this leveling thinner for oil/lacquer base only

Hi all, what to do if i wan to AB rubber parts? Like the feather of MG Wing Zero custom. I was told cannot AB like normal, as most likely the paint will crack

rubber ar... prime it, wait for 1 day (or less LOL), apply a thin layer of paint, den another layer, until it's perfect..... leave for another day (LOL), den topcoat it. wait for a week (LMAO) den put it like u like, and DON'T TOUCH IT.

ok the above was abit of a joke... kinda bored you see

hey tht's so evil of u la wei... Just when i was filled with hope.. come on la shin seriously now.. pwetty please??

Well, for sure there can be a lot of improvement from what you've done

Ok, basically I guess the first thing that you can look at is probly your thinning ratio. What's the ratio of paint to thinner or water r u using?

Next will be brushes. What sort of brush r u using?

From what I can see of the pic (the red areas), your brush strokes r pretty crude, and the main causes of these are usually either wrong brush type, or wrong thinning ratio.

then 3rd question is, how many layers of paint did u apply?

if u're able to right, can u take a close up pic of a white area as well to post here? I can only make out the rough bits on the red part of the shield, but cant see the details of the white areas that well so cant comment on those yet.

to color the eyes, use a very very small brush I usually use a size 000 from Fabel Castel for this.

---

Added on March 14, 2008, 1:42 amwashing the AB with industrial thinner's fine. Been doing that with my Sparmax AB all this time (either by spraying thinner through it, or dismantling it to dip the parts into thinner when it really gets messed up)

This post has been edited by fyire: Mar 14 2008, 01:42 AM

Item Name : Mr. Hobby - Hobby Color Thinner 400ml
Item Code : HC-519495
Company : GUNZE SANGYO
Description : Mr. Hobby - Hobby Color Thinner 400ml

Aqueous Color Thinner is a safe remover with a pleasant citrus scent. It dry slowly than others thinner to let you do the job right. [/quote]

vince this is suitable for aquoes izzit? but wat the 0300078 mean in post #1562?

so i show the Mr. Leveling Thinner n u said is wrong (Post #1570)? so which one guys? a little confius here. i just paint with my aquaoes color (acrylic) only.. and if i want a good result i must mix the retarder+thinner(?)+acrylic color izzit?



thanks fyire for the komen..

FYI, i just bought the aqueous hobby set only. 1 box wit 9 color colout, 3 plate, 3 spoon n 2 brush (1 fine tip, 1 about 3-4mm wide)

i thinning with water about 1:1, n about 3-4 layer for white, 2 layer for color

can u giv me the ur brush pic? want to search in my place..

Its easier to classify paints by their cap... i assume u guys are using Gunze Sangyo's line of paints ...
Please note that the names are all based on the LABELS on the product... not on the description written in XL Shop !!!!!


Mr. Color ( lacquer based ) paint = Mohawk-shaped cap

1. Thinner that can be used :

Mr. Color Thinner 110 ml/250 ml/400 ml
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner 110 ml/400 ml




Hobby Color ( water based ) paint = FLAT shaped cap

1. Thinner that can be used :

Hobby Color Thinner 110 ml/400 ml



See the difference in the names ? hope this clears up some confusion.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 14 2008, 09:09 PM

went to a near by hardware store to look for spray but i dunno wic brand is suitable.


so wic 1do u guys think?

LAO! which hardware store u went to??

my area dun hv nippon pylox

dun use the anchor brand... they're... ewww

What u can try doing is to reduce the paint ratio. Try with maybe 1 part paint - 2 part water and see what sort of results u get? U'll end up with the paint being more dilute and may not cover fully, but don't worry. it just means that you'll need to apply more layers. its better to apply more thin layers than less thick ones


Don't have the pictures with me now, but try looking for brushes from fabel castel. u don't need to get exactly those types, but have a feel on how the brush heads are like, and try to get similar ones to those types. I tend to get mine from popular bookstores these days (similar softness as fabel castel, and cheaper too).

For brush size, I tend to use 3 types mainly. a size 4 flat and size 8 flat for normal surface area painting, and a size 000 pointed for details.

ShinAsakura: so nypon then! thx!

i never done any spraying before. is there anything tat i hv to take note of ? like after spraying need to apply surfacer? or how to spray correctly? please, as much tips as possible. thank you all sifu sifu

This post has been edited by darklancer: Mar 15 2008, 12:43 AM