my current newly bought hiragana keycaps setup. what do you guys think? 

Fresh off the boat from China! Don't worry I washed my hands. lol

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First, got myself a coiled USB-C cable, old school grey.

Shipment 1 of 3 for my new COSPAD. The aluminium case. It is heavy. Finishing is impressive. I'm seriously considering moving my main keyboard to this case too and make a matching set. If it weren't for the fact that they use different plates (I'd have to desolder ALL the switches), I would do it in a heartbeat.

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One thing I don't quite like about the case, the included pads are meant to cover the screws. This might mean I need to source spare pads if I plan to play around with different switches.

Mail day for the blackest hhkb ever

Sifus, do you normally put something in between plate and top for top mounted cases? A liquid gasket maybe?

don't quite get the idea, but i put eva foam between top plate and pcb, especially for aluminum top plate.

Well the plate is screwed into the aluminium top case. The metal on metal can be a bit noisy no?

Was thinking of foam but don't know I can get something thin enough to fit, so I thought maybe one of those liquid gaskets? The kind you squeeze out of a tube, then it hardens into a gasket. Spread a thin coat on the plate or top case where the 2 pieces meet.

oh ok got it.

kbd67 mkii (with a top-mount brass plate) that i have doesn't make noise at those contact areas. however this is a good idea haha

Oh so you don't put anything there and it's ok? Alright, I'll try it that way when my switches arrive. Kbdfans only resumed work on Saturday.

Guys,

Anyone played with programmable keyboard before? I'm interested to get a ydmk programmable numpad but wasn't sure about the flexibility of the programming.

The question that I want to ask is when you turn off the number lock, all keys become arrow keys except 5 and 0. Could you program key 5 to become F11 in this mode?

Thanks in advance.

The YMDK is programmed by bootloader so you probably might want to check the documentation. Just got my COSPAD PCB yesterday which is programmed using TKG, so probably not the same as YMDK.

But for COSPAD/GHPAD via TKG it is not possible to do what you want. The num lock is a special layer within a layer. You can't change the function of 5 in this layer to anything else, nor any other number (e.g. 2 must be down arrow when num lock is off). But that doesn't stop you from doing it all in a different layer. So instead of using the num lock key, you use function keys to move between layers.

After using lubed gat yellows for a while, I noticed something weird. Sometimes when at night when my room is cold from the AC, some switches get really bad spring sounds on the downstroke. I thought they were just a result of bad lubing or something with the switches but I noticed it comes and goes whenever the room gets cold (it returns to normal the next morning after the AC is off). Wonder if anyone else knows what's causing this or has experience with it. If it's important I lubed the yellows with krytox 205g0 but it was my first lube job so the lubed switches are probably inconsistent with some have thicker lube than others

You lubed the springs with 205 as well? I thought you normally use oil (10X) for springs instead of grease (20X).

After using lubed gat yellows for a while, I noticed something weird. Sometimes when at night when my room is cold from the AC, some switches get really bad spring sounds on the downstroke. I thought they were just a result of bad lubing or something with the switches but I noticed it comes and goes whenever the room gets cold (it returns to normal the next morning after the AC is off). Wonder if anyone else knows what's causing this or has experience with it. If it's important I lubed the yellows with krytox 205g0 but it was my first lube job so the lubed switches are probably inconsistent with some have thicker lube than others

Build is underway.  C3 stabs lube and band aid nodded.

Too bad I don't have GMK Hyperfuse.

it looks nice

Thanks. Managed to finish it last night.

very nice indeed.

plateless is ok imo, especially for smaller form factors. later i will build some more plateless builds too. the current one is built with lubed 5-pin gat yellow. to me, as long as a metal case is used, and filled with anti-slip mat between pcb and case, pcb flexes will be minimal.

err....ooops. Sorry if I misled you.

That is not plateless. The previous pic with just the switches and stabs is just me getting the layout right. I didn't solder it like that.

Thanks. Managed to finish it last night.