haha just handle them with care and they will be fine.

personally i stick to modded cherry/gateron with normal housings. they are the better options for me compared to those with clear housings.

Another rusty theme for you. GMK Copper. Only 7 days left to order.

https://en.zfrontier.com/collections/groupb...=31659454038094

A lovely new 75% IC from KBDfans.
https://kbdfans.com/blogs/interest-checks/b...board-rendering

Bella, 7V, Evolv, Satisfaction R2. It's gonna be a good year for 75% fans.

This post has been edited by niakulah: Feb 14 2020, 11:36 PM

this is a very good news. i really hope there are more 6x% and 7x% options with more complete plate and other parts' options.

Hey! Since my last update I pulled the trigger on buying the Tecware Phantom Elite TKL and lubed up the Gateron Yellows for the board as well as the stabs and the keyboard feels and sounds amazing. I decided to take apart my older keyboard and am going to desolder the Kailh Browns that were on that board to maybe play around with. Wondering if lubing the browns are worth it (lube stem legs or not as well) and if it changes the feel of the browns drastically

all switches should be lubed. if possible, do this after a few weeks of use (to make sure switches are broken in first) whether or not it's worth the efforts, you should already know the answer.

for tactile switches, it's up to you to lube the legs or not. again, this is just part of individual preferences. tactility will be reduced after that, but you might like it compared to stock.

ahh I see. Guess I'll just lube a few of them differently and see what I like

that's a really nice looking kit. agreed, more 6X% and 7X% boards are definitely a good thing.

yes, it's always better to try them out, and compare them yourself. usually there is no right or wrong in our mods. as long as you're satisfied with the results, it's all good.

i really suggest you take your own time to experiment more, and find out what you actually want.

Hi sifus. Newbie here. Can anyone recommend me a good budget mechanical keyboard? Budget around Rm500. Balance usage. Half for game, half for work. Prefer full size with keypad.

you can consider leopold fc900r (full sized), or fc980m (a slightly compact layout with keypad).

leopold pd version normally comes with thick double-shot pbt caps (1.5mm thick), with a relatively better build quality. you can check it out at shopee

So I done dumb dumb and bought the Hakko Presto and soldering tips, only to find that these tips do not fit this soldering iron.

I wanted to use a K type tip that is long enough to touch both switch pins at the same time so that you can easily remove them when desoldering. Turns out, there are NO K type tips for the Hakko Presto.

So what do you guys think?
1. Get the chisel tip for the Hakko Presto. Still way better than my current cheapo soldering iron. Both iron and tip will be Hakko! Spend another RM28. Give up on using a K type tip.
2. Get this cheapo soldering iron that accepts 936 style K type tips that I already have. Also just another RM28.
3. Get a cheapish soldering station that accepts 936 style K type tips that I already have. Spend another RM85.
4. Don't cheap out and get the real deal. Spend another RM585

This post has been edited by niakulah: Feb 18 2020, 05:46 PM

WHOA bro, power ar. you solder your own boards?

My current board? Yes.

My old board, to mod it, and eventually killed it

much respect bro. admire your dedication to the boards. cekap.

if you're used to your current iron, imo you can just get the right tip (1.)

however, imo it's better to invest on better soldering stations, with a functional temperature control.

by the way, even hakko-fx-888d is still cheaper than a set of gmk caps.

Bent can still bend it back, broken pin barulah

Lubing would almost always be worth it, but, because the switches you have are already in a built keyboard, the motivation to desolder the switches, lube them, then solder back is required.

Any reason why you need the K-type tip? I have the Hakko Presto, while it's not my main soldering station (since it's not temperature controlled), I got the chisel tip for it which works pretty fine. The Kasadi 936 is a somewhat decent unit for hobbyist, unless you're intending to go pro and offer commissions(where I would say get the Hakko soldering station), I would say the Kasadi is good enough, especially when you pair it with original Hakko tips.

Thanks. Yeah I know it's cheaper than GMK, which is why I'm trying my best to monitor and eventually join a GB for EPBT or Infinikey or maybe even KAT.

Well in my post mortem of my previous dead board, I'm pretty sure I killed it due to bad desoldering technique. I'm a lot better at it now, now that I've learnt things like tinning my tip and adding solder if there's too little left to suck. But on my XD84Pro board, I still managed to lift 1 pad. One of those annoying half pads because the PCB supports multiple layouts.


I believe that heating both pads and pulling out the switch while the solder is liquid, then sucking or wicking after the switch is removed, is a much safer way to desolder.

So the Kasadi is decent eh? It's cheaper than the Hakko Presto! Lol. I wonder if I can resell the Hakko Presto. Opened but still unused.

just realise when u wrote this.

dem kibod hobby !