with his 11-36t, he will need a double chainring, 53/39 will do maybe

Tern D9 comes with 52T 1x gives 28-93GI (gear inch), so 53T don't make much difference, a realistic 56T @11t will give approx 100GI would be nice, 60 is ideal but don't see them selling very often.
39T @36t will give about 21GI, can climb up a vertical wall liao
56/39 double chainring gives 21-100GI and more higher cadance workout
I assume you consider 30km/h as "fast". If you want >40kmh, get a kapchai.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 04:02 AM

get a kapchai.statement paling win..
hahahahha

kapcai

AFAIK, 56 kenot pair with 39. normally 56-46, 52-42, 52-36, 53-39, 60-53. donno for what reasons, just got the info from my mech friends. i could be wrong though.

11-36t is already more than enough to climb any hill..for many, 52-11 is already fast enough on the straight. 30++kmh is totally easily doable on the flat. my guess is, the reason why you felt it is not enough on the straight is due to the bigger jumps in the cassette. and why you felt it is not enough for climbing is probably because of the 52t chainring. yours is using MTB components. the cheaper option is as suggested by other forummers, upgrade to double chainring. IMO, 53-39 is already sufficient. to change the jumps ratio in the cassette, i guess there's no other options but to change to RB cassette, but then, you need different rd, shifters and probably chains as well (if u upgrade it to 10 speed). better change the whole groupset.

one other option is, which is the cheapest of all and most probably has been said too many times, which is, ride more, and at the same time, before you know it, you'll be also upgrading your legs and lungs

edit: wait, i just noticed. upgrading to double chainrings also means you need to add fd and shifter as well on your list.

This post has been edited by fatani: Sep 6 2017, 02:19 PM

That's probably true according to the spec sheet. This is because the front derailleurs can shift maximum 16 teeth difference on shifting, like 53/39 is a 14 teeth difference. So, it's OK. So if you have 56/39T , that's 17 teeth difference which is one teeth too many already. It might work but maybe not as smooth la. So, if it is 56 teeth chainring, it is better to pair with 42 teeth smaller chianring which is quite common as the older triples uses it.

oh now i see it. thanks sifu, for mentioning the reasons behind it.

One teeth difference is only add on 1/2" (1.25cm)on chain length, less than 2‰ difference in chainring diameter... shimano always play safe with their specs, sure no problem in real world.

Surely 56/39T is customed, and a very easy one. Can buy 56T 130pcd chainring and fit it on the standard 53/39T.

But @weikee only did 50~60km, too little to really know what he need…

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 05:15 PM

Based on RB history, in recent times 53/39 is coined as Standard Crankset, 50/34 Compact, 52/36 Semi-Compact. Others I not sure too. But you can always mix your own poison with matching the PCD and hole numbers. And within rear derailleur capacity.

In reality, for chainring ≥53T, 5 hole 130 pcd Crankset and chainring are available off the shelf… and smallest I see selling is 39T

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 05:37 PM

How do u guys choose a handle post length? I'm in a dilemma if i should go for 39cm handle post or 34cm handlepost. It's non adjustable so any advice?

This will be pair with Fnhon FGC 1611 frame, 349 wheelset.

This one only you can decide. To know is to get an adjustable one and find your preferred setting.

Come to think about it, they should offer fixed handle post range from 25cm to 45cm with 0.5cm increments…

*PS, don't forget the tilting angle too.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 08:05 PM

Kapchai 😁

My minor downhill speed around 35km/h clocked with strava (persiaran murni toward summit usj) straight road maybe 25+-, was thinking to clock.

This post has been edited by weikee: Sep 6 2017, 08:11 PM

Agree, will reconsider again after another month of riding.

34cm just nice bro. dont get 31.5 like mine if u wanna ride relax..hahahah..

actually, fnhon handlepost are fix degree, so no option tilting degree on it. but nevertheless, its a good one.

do remember if shorter handlepost might interfere fold method. means when folded the handlepost should be inside. mine the handlepost do interfere bcoz its too short, so i fold outside different method..

The particular handlepost i'm seeing only have 3 option, 39cm, 34cm, and 30.5cm, the new 3D handlepost from fnhon, i really miss the tern physis 3D handlepost so i hope this meet my expectation.

Seems like a safe bet is 34cm, 39 seems too long and 30.5 seems too short.

Ride for another 300km before making any decisions. See if it's you or the bike need any upgrades.
Take your time to dial in your fitting geometry, I.e. seat post height, handlebar position, tire pressure, shifter/brake level position… etc It's very rewarding and it's free.
Average speed can tell a lot while getting through the 1st 500km.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 08:26 PM

I buy for best fit, if I want to bet, I go Genting.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 6 2017, 08:28 PM

Sure will do.

Meanwhile, check with you guys. Do your bike chain drop when paddling on very bouncy road. Had drop chain once while paddling hard on bouncy road with lots of pothole

this is the different 30.5 and 34cm


mine are 30.5 (silver) and 34 cm (white). should be likely look like the example picture

anyway,
this is how i fold. still compact and just nice