Thanks for your feedback bro.. Really helped a lot compared to without the stage 1 bars?

Consider 3rd party mod? Warranty void or not?

Yes, I would say the improvement is very noticeable.

Apa kos install all these ?

Just wondering if it does improve the floating sensation or feeling when other heavier cars pass by.

Bezza

FRONT BAR = RM 220
REAR ANTI ROLL = RM 360
FRONT LOWER BAR = RM 185 ( 2 POINT)
FRONT LOWER BAR = RM 295 ( 4 POINT)
REAR LOWER BAR = RM 250 ( 4 POINT)
REAR LOWER SIDE BAR = RM 280 ( 6 POINT)
INSTALLATION= RM 130
TOTAL = RM 1720.00


Stage 1 (front strut bar & rear anti roll bar)
*these bar are the most basic bar to improve your car handling,cornering and stability. At the same time can reduce car body roll up to 30%.

Stage 2 (front lower bar & rear lower bar, Mid lower Bar)
*these bar will strengthen your car chassis & offer more protection and will reduce car shaking, car bouncing & streghtening your car chassis at the same time wont effect car comfort

I am not an agent nor endorsed by UR. I just enquired a few weeks back.

Im guessing stage 1 should be enough already.

Yeah, Stage 1 is enough, at least for me. I got mine from https://www.lazada.com.my/products/ultra-ra...z6lz16&search=1
I got it done on 31 August, a day before SST which cost RM551.

It does not address the floating sensation or feeling when other heavier cars pass by.

i wish i got money to do racing bar.

Btw there another competitor brand call SuperCircuit. Originally from exhaust pipe company, now they also make strut bar. About same price, thought they are cheaper...

Hi guys my friend told me to make a report to Perodua but first want to get your feedback. Can I know how much did you guys spend on service your car for this year???

My 2 year old bezza for this year serviced twice the bill came up to rm700++ combine. The people I talk too said it was freaking expensive...

Walaowehh , not a mod kaki but this serves as weight and support for the car right? Macam best. Like the need for speed game where you can upgrade own car

Auto advance.. new car.. so drive very manje2.. even sometime takde rase changing gear also..

nothing out of norm if you look at 30k + 40k km service schedule. it is almost there. you can get minimal service (just change oil and filter) outside though, just let go your warranty, as simple as that,

http://www.perodua.com.my/service-maintena...bezza-1300cc/30
http://www.perodua.com.my/service-maintena...bezza-1300cc/40

look at page 1 of this forum, got schedule and price there.
What else they help you change. Seem like they change item other than compulsory.

Anyone got checklist for things to look out for when we receive our new Bezza?

rase macam cvt ye?

[quote=singk,Oct 15 2018, 09:20 AM]auto? manual? the fc is very good for a new engine. i clocked 7k km and the afc still below 14km/l, never hit higher than that. most likely due to the traffic condition i believe.... stop and go  & bumper to bumper traffic is a norm for the place where i'm
Sorry.. double post..

This post has been edited by tehsarbat: Oct 17 2018, 10:19 AM

Ya lo.. dah terbiase with my ejora..

Last time had to be towed, SC say that cable loose or something like that. This time they said fill up oil too much. Duno how its related though.

which SC said that ?

I think the float/being pushed feeling is mainly caused by the steering design. Some Toyota EPS (electric steering by motor) in the past also experienced this (New corolla, camry hybrid etc). The root cause is said to be due to the weight balance geometry of the wheel, is a little bit too forward from the center of the wheel. This causes the steering to loose some 'self centering' and it also causes a slight problem where its hard to keep the car in a straight line because this set up causes the reduction of this 'self centering weight' effect. You cannot feel the feedback on the steering compared to a traditional hydraulic steering or a different design, especially that few millimeters from 'straight ahead position' of the steering. This means that by the time you feel that you are being pushed, it is actually kinda late to react, so if you 'panic' and over-react, the entire journey becomes very tiring as you are always trying to center the car. Best to just trust the EPS but do very small but constant corrections. The first time I took delivery of the car and while doing a U-turn, I almost crashed into the road divider as my previous cars like old Myvi and Exora had much more steering feedback and self centering. My Bezza model is late 2016 production, not sure if recent models have solved this.

You can also try to use wider tyres… 185/60 should be a starter, the difference is 2mm+- on the height, and it does not make your speedometer overspeed, but underspeed by a just few percent actually. 185/65 is next but your speedometer will overspeed more than it is under speed when using 185/60. I changed to CC6 185/60 after a year and a few months, it got slightly better than stock 175/65. The first number is the wideness of the tyre. The stock rims can fit 185, no problems.

Next, the car is very light... FYI new Myvi is about 50kg heavier than Bezza 1.3L Advance, despite Myvi being 'smaller'. Other Bezza versions are slightly more lighter than 1.3 Adv. So, Bezza is taller and bigger, but can consider lighter about 1 skinny passenger than the new Myvi. If you carry 3-5 passenger in Bezza vs carry yourself, you will note the difference. So after some consideration, I did some serious heavyweight soundproof and this additional weight alone made more difference than wider tyres.

Also if you are using Bridgestone Ecopia tyres (1.3 Adv), i personally find 220 front, 210 rear is good if you are driving alone, soft enough and directionally more stable especially after your tires crossed a year old and start to feel less soft. If you carry 1 passenger in the back, I raised about 5kpa rear per passenger. If fully loaded at 5 passangers, I was at 220 front, 225 rear. This is my exprience, but bottom line is you need to lower the front pressure, and then the rear slightly lower than the front if you are driving alone. How much lower, best to test and experience with your driving style. The previous ecopia i was using at 250 front, 250 rear had been more 'botak' at the center, which means over-inflated, and i normally drive alone. Maybe if you always carry 5 passenger, 250kpa front and rear would work, but it did not work for me. Remember to pump your tyre early in the morning, by hot afternoon the surrounding temperature causes about 10-15kpa difference already.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 17 2018, 10:55 PM

Bro , Nice Info and Great Real Review , this was also why i keep remind others are you sure you " need " a bezza?

speaking of driving tiredness , it was not build for driver , and i believe it was not build for passenger as well ( rear seat ) , it was build for practicality on city drive use , thats all about bezza. ( Honestly , i never have not enough space problem on bezza , but it just seem " too much space " which are useless , not balance enough , story abit , 1 time a passenger want to bring a big picture frame from Tesco , and bezza cant fit , Alza for sure can and Myvi i believe can , there were advantages from hatchback over sedan too )

i am sort of having the same problem with 250kpa , my tyre havent botak though, since then i put 220-240kpa , but it was the recommended tyre pressure , mostly for " fuel efficiency ". ( grab driver )

One more thing was bezza was not really meant to fetch heavy object , i almost always hit bump stop when fully loaded except i crawl over speed bump with brake on , especially on steep bump.

What do you think about bezza fuel efficiency , i dont think it was great for 1.3 , but it was good < nowadays alot car can achieve such fc , example city , vios , jazz, mazda 2, or to say almost all normal economic car are having such fc , nothing special and it should be. ( especially compare to proton )

This post has been edited by Goodboy92: Oct 18 2018, 12:49 AM