For mine, I found out that ticking noise from the rear, it's actually coming from the left rear passenger door. Had the door panel padded properly and the sound is gone. Lower dashboard got sound over hard bumps sometimes.

There is some sound that seems to come from seatbelt area when going over uneven surface and I found out that it was the rubber seals for the window glass and door, the one for the inner portion, inside or on cabin. When it's bumpy they rub on each other or on the body frame and it causes some noise. So I open the door, wind down the windows and remove and reinstall both rubbers and the sounds gone since but i'm sure it'll come back one day. The rubber by Perodua is not high quality enough. It needs to be really non-slip high quality or thick, lower quality. There may be some workarounds to this, some lubricant or sticky material maybe.

FC wise, full city and non stop traffic jam, I get between 12km/l to 13km/l which is pretty good. Highway during rain when everyone drive slow (80-90) with good spacing between cars and good pace, i manage to get 23.x km/l from KL to Melaka. Cannot compare to hybrid lar, they have electric motor to assist during most fuel demanding situations.

Yes the AC is crazy. It's super cold at night and barely enough in the day, very funny. My thoughts are that Perodua oversized the AC for ECO Idle, to keep the indoor evap coil cold when the engine is shut down as that's when AC compressor cannot operate. So in order to keep the cabin cold, the AC must be oversized (bigger HP) so that the blower can blow cold air at least.

This causes 2 problems, being oversized the AC compressor short-cycles (frequent start/stop or the compressor starts operating for a very short while and stays off for a longer period than when it was operating). Which means it cannot remove humidity properly because it's not operating long enough (situation of cold room, but still sweating cause the air is wet). Next problem is, very cold when unnecessary and unable to quickly reach or sustain coldness, and also high electrical load because it starts frequently) There is no way around this unless they can get a new compressor that is very light on the engine, so they can downsize and make it operate longer. Otherwise, will need to 'cheat' on AC efficiency by oversize + frequent compressor start/stop which causes this situation. I was in the AC industry for abit so this situation is very obvious, whether intentional or not. That being said, this is a very hard and extremely costly task to accomplish from a technical and cost viewpoint even for stationary building, what more a moving vehicle. I wish the vents and ducting are bigger too, as smaller ones = high air velocity = high noise.

Not too sure on the radio but he sound quality one mine is quite good (Advance), especially on USB with settings
Fader: Front +2
EQ: High +2, Low -2 / -3, Bass +1 / +2.

Other than that, same like you, if i were to grade it, B++ car for the price, being generous because 1st sedan effort and mine is 1st batch lah... so kasi chance la...

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Aug 5 2017, 06:08 PM

Mine too, after a month or so. It could be the fan motor. I also realise that when on the highway or high speed, the AC cools very well. In jams or low speed, not too good. This can mean that the airflow pulled by the fan is not enough at low speed. It can be by design or just poor quality and inefficient motor/design.

Nevertheless installing voltage stabilizer is just a 'plaster on a wound'. If the fan takes too much power to spool up, the fan should be replaced with a new one or a 3rd party high efficiency, high airflow fan. One other thing to look into is the alternator and the 'big 3' wiring.

One fishy thing is regenerative braking feature, i swear it was mentioned on blogs and reviews when the car came out but i cant seem to find any further info from Perodua on it. Because we should not just swap other alternators or batteries with those that are designed for regenerative braking and start-stop system, it's supposed to have a specific charge/discharge profile and buck/boost converters designed to prolong the lifespan and for proper operation of this specific system. Modifying could make the system inefficient.

Wet or dry doesn't really matter, it's how the system is designed to give best performance and lifespan. No point putting a different battery if the system is not designed to ensure it's charged and maintained properly, because the discharge depth and recovery time of a different battery will not be similar to the stock one. If we do have regenerative braking, it may change the alternator 'engage' time too. Too much risk for me on uncertain and unproven technology, all for the sake of dimming lights Personally, I would just ignore lar, even the voltage stabilizer, not sure of it's long term effects, manatau solve the dimming but need replace that expensive battery every year. Plus this light dimming thing, it occurs in other cars from different manufacturers as well So far what i know is from what i read online to understand how these stuffs works, just my personal thoughts and understanding la. If any p2 engineer lurking here, please enlighten us

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Aug 5 2017, 11:13 PM

Be aware of auditory masking. As you silence parts of the car, other parts will "become much louder". Take for example we are talking outdoors at a cafe located at a busy street with A LOT of traffic. At this point in time we speak loud enough for each other to be heard. As time goes by, the traffic disappears. Now we find that we are actually talking very loudly due to the silence of the street. Our loudness was masked by the 'background traffic noise'.

Same goes with soundproofing, at the end of the day if you are successful in reducing sound here and there, you will 'find' that there will be 'louder sounds'.

I have DIY soundproof on my bezza quite acceptably. Now i find the engine to be quite loud, and can literally hear the injectors 'tick' during running and dead silence during fuel-cut situation (above 60km/h let go pedal and real-time fuel meter goes to 99.9km/l) but the engine is actually not that loud and it was not noticeable in the past, just that now the rest of the car is pretty silent... so....dammnit need to visit a pro to get the firewall done AND after that i'm pretty sure the AC motor and vents will be too loud.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 19 2017, 09:10 PM

Sure, I can share pictures of the spare tyre boot area this weekend, other areas probably when i re-open again to do some improvements.

Not easy to do and if 1st time, do expect some broken or scratched clips especially those holding the boot area carpet.

The rear doors are pretty easy. The 'phone cup' area, just insert four fingers (except thumb) into the 'cup' and squeeze with your palm very tightly, then try to yank it out. Sometimes the clips get caught and you need to use force, whatever it is do not do too much front-back or left-right motion, only up down, otherwise you will break or bend the clips. After you get that out, two screws to remove + one more at the door opener handle. Remove the power window connector. Then just pry out the door panel from it's clips from the sides.

The front doors, you will need to remove the 'triangle thing' near the side mirror, just yank it out, again, it must be vertical 90 degree from it's mount point. The rest is the same. After you remove the cabin door panels, remove the plastic covering the inner door and you have access to the door skin. Beware of the black 'AC glue' when removing the plastic cover, it can become messy. Then, You need to cut the soundproof material smartly and apply it. Clean the door skin with some cleaner and dry it with lint-free cloth, wait awhile to make sure really really dry. When you apply the soundproof, try to be in hot weather and use a 'roller' to apply force on the material. I used my fiance's nail polish remover bottle, with force make sure you press and 'roll' thru every inch of the material. It must stick. I took 4 weekends with the door. 2 weekend to apply 2 pair of door (4 hours per weekend, 1 pair 1 weekend). Then remaining 2 weekend open again and use your 'roller' to press and make sure it sticks well. Maybe dont need to do this because on mine it stuck really well, but i did it for piece of mind. I used a combination of nakamichi q-pad (expensive but heavy and thick) and some green generic brand. Do it slowly and take rests, grab a beer, play a short game, chill... dont rush, it's not worth the lousy results. For the plastic door panel, you can apply a layer of insuflex or other closed cell foam before attaching it back to the door panel.

Boot, there is alot of clips, you need fingernails or a credit card/thin plastic ruler for the 'mushroom button clips'. The 'handle clips' are very hard to come out, you will need to figure this out with a flat screwdriver or some really hard thin yet long plastic 'screwdriver alike' thing. Insert into both 'handle', yank it out vertically to the mount point with extreme force really quick. This is where i got injured and literally blood sweat and tears Boot area 2 weekend. 1 weekend to apply, 1 weekend to re-press. Use CLD tile soundproof method but add abit more (google), dont need to overdo the boot. 'Knock' on parts of the boot and boot side body, find the most hollow sounding (tonnng tonnggg/dok dok sound) and apply it at that part. Don't use big cuts, use it in tiles but generously. If you knock and hear 'dip dip', that area is very strong already, it wont vibrate, no vibration=no sound=no need apply. You will know when you do it You need to remove the spare tyre, also need to 'climb' and 'sit' in the spare tyre area to reach some areas. Reason to not over-apply or cover the whole boot, you may create a new 'big panel' just with a different vibration frequency. If this frequency matches the exhaust/engine/road, it will amplify and make a loud bassy boomy note at that frequency.

Below the rear seat, youtube some tutorials, hard to explain with words...

I have not done anything in front of the rear seats. And this is really good enough already. On smooth road,pretty silent, on rough road, the thin front floor, side panels and firewall still make low frequency rumble. But overall much much better ride quality, if you have friend with bezza, do an A/B test and you will just smile... And after doing it, you know why you are paying so much for a pro to do it, the immense time needed, carefulness, brain and strength just doesn't justify business cost of doing it cheap I was foreman for a short while when younger, so i have some experience. Do at your own risk. Also, wind-noise rubber seal on all door, b-pillar and boot is a must.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 19 2017, 10:27 PM

Very very worth the effort bro, Mid range Japanese car feel, just pay for material cost. Get to lose some weight as well Tho i think the floor panels after the rear sit toward the front, plus the firewall really need pro to do. If you are ofis kaki, no way unless you wake up at 7am on Saturday and Sunday to play with it. =D No problem, if you DIY can PM me, i may afk from forum from time to time but will reply when log back in

Hey, maybe I can share some tips or encounters for you or others here...

AVG counter should be good enough, but it must be reset depending on what you want to measure

Ie. I pump full tank, reset it, drive from PJ to Melaka, reach destination and read the AVG meter, I got 23.Xkm/l for that journey.

This was a very special case! It was raining moderately all the way, traffic was really good and everyone on the road kept steady at about 7 to 12 cars distance.
The speed was about 60-95km/h. There were many times at downhill slopes on the highway, I could just let go of the pedal and let the car glide by itself and enter fuel cut. When reach Melaka town i was impressed.

(You can monitor fuel cut, it happens when you are above 55km/h or so and let go throttle completely. The real time meter goes to 99.9km/l, if you are on good road surface and have a good ear, you can literally hear the fuel injectors stop ticking)

I also find that for moderate slopes (not very steep / Genting kind) or even generally, the car is most efficient around 90km/h

Ie. To maintain 90km/h up a slight slope, the real-time meter is about 15 -18km/l
Ie. To maintain 70km/h up a slight slope, the real-time meter is about 11 -14km/l

Where I stay and work no need say lah (PJ area), so many slope roads here and there and so many traffic lights for bloody short distances, max is about 13km/l. Previously driving myvi around 10km/l... pretty ok lah.

Nevertheless I also observed the car is most efficient after it has entered 3rd gear. At 3rd, the real time km/l is above 10 already at light throttle...

I believe the earliest shift to 3rd happens at about 35km/h. Also, once u are in 3rd and 4th, the gearbox applies the lock-up clutch at light and moderate throttle for best efficiency.

Hmm i think lastly try not to linger too long below 30km/h, last time i thought if I accelerate sloooowly below this speed it will give good consumption, nope. It's actually saves more if can reach 40km/h or above in reasonable time. Don't floor it or be aggressive but don't linger below it too long either. If you watch the real time fuel meter at the lower speeds, you will know what i mean At this speed even at light throttle, no car out there can give good figures (except hybrids )

The real time meter really helps to have a glance on how much fuel is being used at that moment and situation, but don't get too distracted and stay safe! Cheers

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Dec 2 2017, 03:13 PM

What i hear from others it that after installing those ultra racing bar, it will lessen. Also, change bigger rim will help. But I think both have chance to void warranty or make claims harder.

Maybe you can try to experiment, try to lower your tyre pressure between 230 - 240kPa (when cold). I find that it helps the car feel more planted and less sway. Lesser than 230, personally find it too soft and when fully loaded with passenger and luggage, the braking feeling not too reassuring.

Also remember that tyre pressure changes with temperature. Every 10C increase in temperature, air pressure increases 7kPa.
Hence if you pump 250kPa per Perodua specs in a cold morning, by noon you will be at 257kPa, hit the highway for an hour and the tyre heats up, you may be close to 270 or higher. Although this is what Perodua anticipated, i really don't like it, damn firm and the car feels disconnected from the road

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Dec 2 2017, 03:37 PM

Hi, any owner with Bezza 1.3 auto happened to check your ATF after a long highway run, or at least a minimum of 30min at around 90kmh on a hot day? Mine was significantly (about 2-3cm or so?) above the hot mark after a 30min 90kmh run on hot day based on ATF provided out of factory.

Recently went to service ATF and the shift quality seems inconsistent, there is a jerk sometimes. I notice now the ATF level is only very slightly above the hot mark based on the same running condition. I went back and technician say he is just following per manual and dare not put extra, ATF filled is their standard D3-SP, I didn't escalate further because lacking time

I did a search here and saw some has shift quality issue as well. If you have previously checked your ATF level based on same condition or maybe even other condition and have no shift quality issue, can help state the ATF level to help a brother out? Perhaps they fill ATF at factory to a baseline level based on gearbox manufacturing tolerances... or the manual 2.9L is wrong, or the dipstick is wrong

Also anyone with shift quality issue, if you have checked ATF level, please contribute as well so we can compare some information

If you have not check, check at your own risk, there is a chance the E-AT is a very sensitive system and that few drop coming out of your dipstick can cause problems

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 1 2018, 05:13 PM

Thanks bro, in the end i'm quite confident it's ATF under fill by Perodua technician and the also that the gearbox dipstick is wrong.
When I followed the owner's manual procedure to check the ATF level, it will significantly overshoot (3cm+- above) the 'hot' marker (or at least for the dipstick they gave me / my car 1.3adv/ my gearbox )

I bought a bottle of Perodua SP III ATF (red cap bottle) and top it up slowly, check, top-up then recheck (over 2 times added 200ml each time) which brings it to the level that I remembered lastly when I checked using owner's manual procedure with factory filled ATF... The shift quality 90% back to amazing now... maybe a few more drives or re-fuel and the computer will sort it out completely

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 4 2018, 09:12 PM

I thought so too, but its almost excellent now

No, '3cm+-' is what the factory gave (when i check following owner manual [hot] procedure). So today when hot and according to the manual and after my top up, it is at 3cm+- above H mark when i check

To compare, after the service, when i check following the procedure it was just a few mm above 'hot' marking

No joke Bezza shift quality is good, i've sit GRAB many times and experience other cars, Bezza gear shifting was almost like high end car at eco-mode, smooth, no feel.. too bad noise insulation and it's weight/VSC/handing is something that can be improved alot. Otherwise for a non turbo 1.3L at this price, pretty excellent

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 4 2018, 09:48 PM

Yah agreed, different brand seem to have quite an effect on Bezza... Maybe 11:5 compression ratio and sensitive systems play its part in protecting the engine and exposing fuel quality.

My opinion our national brand petrol really excellent with this car... Got some brand like engine running on sandpaper, some is so butter that while seems smooth is like driving thru thick oil... Idk man... Butt dyno analysis...

For one, really dont trust those big name reviewers on petrol or RON. How can they expect to get difference between 1 fuel tank worth of petrol switch.

From my understanding of reading super technical things.. The ECU has real-time fuel and ignition trim, which reacts immediately to engine knocking etc.

Then it averages/use algorithm to calculate the real-time fuel tirm into short term fuel trim, which is updated for the next time you start the car or updated after a certain drive cycle or drive duration or distance. So that it can reasonably maintain a no-knock condition for mid-term.

Then, there is another calculation for long term trim, which updates everytime u refuel, to maintain almost complete long term no-knock condition based on general weather or engine condition etc... Same principle applies to ignition trim, gearbox adaptive learning, stability control etc... First its done immediately, then short term, and lastly long term to ensure it doesnt fakap the system, to ensure it can reverse if condition changes and to ensure it doesnt cause sudden damages from over-compensation. If there is a situation that needs over-compensation, it will revert to 'fail-safe' which is the safest and presumably 'most lembap' setting. Each stage should have it's 'limits of authority' so as to not cause big sudden changes, it should be safe and progressive. Unless u are driving a performance car with excellent realtime systems. Different systems will have different limits, realtime stabily/traction control might reduce engine power from 1% to 80%, whereas fuel/knock maybe 1 to 10% reduction etc..

So, based on my understanding of systems, muntah darah sometimes to see all those marketing/public assurance articles...

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Sep 7 2018, 12:12 AM

I think the float/being pushed feeling is mainly caused by the steering design. Some Toyota EPS (electric steering by motor) in the past also experienced this (New corolla, camry hybrid etc). The root cause is said to be due to the weight balance geometry of the wheel, is a little bit too forward from the center of the wheel. This causes the steering to loose some 'self centering' and it also causes a slight problem where its hard to keep the car in a straight line because this set up causes the reduction of this 'self centering weight' effect. You cannot feel the feedback on the steering compared to a traditional hydraulic steering or a different design, especially that few millimeters from 'straight ahead position' of the steering. This means that by the time you feel that you are being pushed, it is actually kinda late to react, so if you 'panic' and over-react, the entire journey becomes very tiring as you are always trying to center the car. Best to just trust the EPS but do very small but constant corrections. The first time I took delivery of the car and while doing a U-turn, I almost crashed into the road divider as my previous cars like old Myvi and Exora had much more steering feedback and self centering. My Bezza model is late 2016 production, not sure if recent models have solved this.

You can also try to use wider tyres… 185/60 should be a starter, the difference is 2mm+- on the height, and it does not make your speedometer overspeed, but underspeed by a just few percent actually. 185/65 is next but your speedometer will overspeed more than it is under speed when using 185/60. I changed to CC6 185/60 after a year and a few months, it got slightly better than stock 175/65. The first number is the wideness of the tyre. The stock rims can fit 185, no problems.

Next, the car is very light... FYI new Myvi is about 50kg heavier than Bezza 1.3L Advance, despite Myvi being 'smaller'. Other Bezza versions are slightly more lighter than 1.3 Adv. So, Bezza is taller and bigger, but can consider lighter about 1 skinny passenger than the new Myvi. If you carry 3-5 passenger in Bezza vs carry yourself, you will note the difference. So after some consideration, I did some serious heavyweight soundproof and this additional weight alone made more difference than wider tyres.

Also if you are using Bridgestone Ecopia tyres (1.3 Adv), i personally find 220 front, 210 rear is good if you are driving alone, soft enough and directionally more stable especially after your tires crossed a year old and start to feel less soft. If you carry 1 passenger in the back, I raised about 5kpa rear per passenger. If fully loaded at 5 passangers, I was at 220 front, 225 rear. This is my exprience, but bottom line is you need to lower the front pressure, and then the rear slightly lower than the front if you are driving alone. How much lower, best to test and experience with your driving style. The previous ecopia i was using at 250 front, 250 rear had been more 'botak' at the center, which means over-inflated, and i normally drive alone. Maybe if you always carry 5 passenger, 250kpa front and rear would work, but it did not work for me. Remember to pump your tyre early in the morning, by hot afternoon the surrounding temperature causes about 10-15kpa difference already.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 17 2018, 10:55 PM