As opined by @Thrust , the darkened spark plug internal clearly demonstrates presence of unburnt carbon as caused by too rich a feul mixture from the combustion system which I would attribute it solely to the tuning done and/or engine ecu software .

General engine overhaul and/or oversize piston in itself should not be part of the problem .

Your contention on clogged catch can/pcv may sound logical to explain the spark plug carbon problem, I'm of the opinion replacing/rectifying pcv/catch can would not eliminate/resolve this phenomenon .

Your probable option is to take another look/redo on engine tuning , if and when fairly quick darkening of engine oil is of concern to you and not forgetting increased fuel consumption presently .

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 31 2020, 08:10 PM

Hi Zeng,

This is my new finding I found this useful blotter test, please advice me if I did something wrong and lets discuss and learn new things around us.

I would like your advice about my oil. Taken this oil after 10mins of engine shut down after a 30mins smooth driving on less traffic road. Picture was taken 72hrs after oil was dipped on envelope paper.

Oil: TOTAL Semi Synthetic.Quartz 7000Energy. 10W-40. API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4. Aeon BIG. Click HERE for extensive review
Age of oil: 6 months
Oil filter: HAMP
Age of oil filter: 12months

Oil Mileage: 2600KM(distance is not accurate here since I always spend half of my driving time in waiting at traffic light)
Engine hours: 85hours(I guess this is better way to measure my super short city stop and go driving)

Vehicle: Honda Accord S86.Year 2000.
Engine: F23A(2,254 cc) SOHC VTEC.
Driving condition: 1week 7days of daily driving to work place, Usually 13min per drive.
92% short distance city driving,8% or 7hours for a long distance drive(about 600KM).
First start of the day in the morning never idle warm up just drive slowly in my taman for around 1KM/2minutes.
All the way using auto shifting that is mean my RPM always below 2000RPM.

Is there alot of soot in my oil? What do you think I switch to HDEO 10W-30 CI-4 oil for 3months just for cleaning purpose?

Thank you.

This post has been edited by Benck: Jan 23 2021, 11:45 AM


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Hi Zeng,this is my 2nd Car.

Taken this oil after 10mins of engine shut down after a 30mins smooth driving on less traffic road. Picture was taken 72hrs after oil was dipped on envelope paper.

Oil: NISSAN TOTAL Semi Synthetic. 10W-40. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B4. Click HERE for this oil's specification
Age of oil: 6 months
Oil filter: Volvo
Age of oil filter: 12months

Oil Mileage: 2200KM(distance is not accurate here since I always spend half of my driving time in waiting at traffic light)
Engine hours: 80hours(I guess this is better way to measure my super short city stop and go driving)

Vehicle: Volvo B230E.Automatic. Year 1987.
Engine: B230E SOHC(2,316 cc) Fuel Injection.
Driving condition: 1week 7days of daily driving to work place, Usually 13min per drive. 98% short distance city driving.
First start of the day in the morning idle less than 1minute for oil circulation,then drive with soft acceleration in 1st gear around 1500-2000RPM in my taman for around 1KM/2minutes,before hitting to the main street.

Is there alot of soot in my oil? What do you think I switch to HDEO 10W-30 CI-4 oil for 3months just for cleaning purpose?

Thank you.

This post has been edited by Benck: Jan 23 2021, 11:39 AM


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Hi Bro , glad to learn that you find this blotter test thread useful . I hope its practice would help taking away from users some emotional stress/worry/tension whilst agak'ing (speculating) extent of 'damage' to one's equipments/engines .......
needlessly and 'unjustifiably' raising one's blood pressure to higher levels and the best part is , it is Free and Easy .

Hmm.... you do very well indeed in the way your procedure have been appropriate in taking oil sampling for blotter test IMHO .

Now on centre zone . It is slightly grayed though 2600 km mileage (in 6 months) is low'ish . Good news is it is not darkened and it is not opaque ,yet .

However, such low mileage used oil shows rather obviously quite dark/blackened aureole zone/perimeter ring indicating 'unwanted' agglomeration of combustion by-products/contaminants .

The further aggravation/deterioration of Detergency and Dispersancy properties of a functioning engine oil could lead to unusually high metal wear rate between the contacting surfaces within the engine .

Hence, you may want to monitor closely the degree of darkness and transparency of the aureole zone .....
as far as this Honda engine of yours is concerned .

External to the aureole zone , the diffusion zone is transparent (good news) basically ....
and its contaminant/soot/dirt levels are not high IMO , as an unknown portion of the combustion contaminants had been 'retained and agglomerated' at the aureole zone and its creation (which is bad news) and prevented from further diffusing and traveling in outward direction from deposit/centre zone to the diffusion zone .

There is absence of darkened jagged zig-zag edge outside of diffusion zone indicating negligible or undetectable level of water moisture within the used oil sample .

There is some halo signs in the external zone indicating presence of fuel dilution phenomenon which may be considered as 'typical' of a low mileage 2600 km oil over 6 months usage .

IMHO , your Honda engine mechanical condition could be further improved by increasing the frequency or number of round trips per start for > 30 minutes and exceeding 3000 rpm ...., long distance driving is better still .....

Absence of warm up idling at morning start is good for fuel economy and good to warm up engine oil in a short time duration which in turn helps retain good engine condition .... do carry on as you did .

I don't consider this 6 month oil as having high levels of soot/dirt/contaminants and instead , I think it is the unwanted, early and 'premature' oil contaminants agglomeration in such low 2600 km mileage oil that is worrying/unwelcome to users and this is to be prevented from emerging or, if emerged from further deteriorating .....

Your suggestion of switching from PCMO to HDEO (10W-30 CI-4) is indeed very very well placed with its super duper Detergency and Dispersancy properties , which is essential and useful in tackling your current oil contaminant agglomeration phenomenon, which as and being a prerequisite, that leads to deterioration of oil Detergency/Dispersancy properties consequentially causing high metal wear rates ........
should you continue with your current poor and bad driving pattern of 13 minutes per start, among others .

Overall, I'm of the opinion this used 2600 km 6 month oil is still serviceable and fit for continuing service .

Edit : Ooops ..... a second sample , give me a bit of time please .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 23 2021, 12:33 PM

Nissan Total semisyn 10W40 SL A3/B4,
2200 km over 6 months in a 1987 Volvo B230E 2.3L SOHC MPFI ...

The centre zone is a bit grayish , but it basically remains transparent which is good news .
However within the enlarged/magnified centre zone , one can 'see' clearly spots of very blackish/darkish contrast in relation to the whitish background .

I would speculate this phenomenon arises from the presence of heavy particles/debris in possibly coagulated metal wear particles (like iron/copper/aluminium etc, ) and/or agglomerated organic combustion contaminants etc . But who knows it may not be the case IDK, in particular without evidence/facts from a pricy UOA to support this speculation on my part .

As quite similar to Total Qaurtz Energy 10W40 with 2600 km in another car i.e Honda Accord , there is obvious emergence of slightly grayed/darkened aureole zone/perimeter ring which may require close monitoring on your part .

Diffusion zone is generally clean and transparent , absence of darkened jagged external edge and absence of halo translucent annulus in the outermost zone , which I'm honestly quite surprised with both your low mileage oil samples over 6 month usage . It indicates fuel delivery systems of both engines are in quite a tip-top conditions despite of rather frequent short drives .

My other previous comments on your Honda generally applies in this Volvo , a difference being Honda appears to have lesser metal wear particles vs Volvo , IMHO .

Generally, this 2000 km used Nissan Total 10W40 is still serviceable and may not due for replacement, as yet .

Edit : Why would you consider/suggest an HDEO for 3 month usage ?
IMO HDEO is good for both of your applications > 12 months .
However with very dark spots within the centre zone in 1987 Volvo , you may want to consider a thicker oil like 15W40 E7/E9 in the case of HDEO or a PCMO xW40 with 'heavy' doses of Boron and/or Molybdenum like say, Mobil 1 0W40 to see if they help with reduced metal wear particles ?
20W50 or 15W50 ? Why not ......... IMHO .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 25 2021, 12:35 PM

Hi Zeng

got some off topic question,

i do have old honda city idsi, clocking 310k mile

i need ur suggestion, what kind of oil should i be using ?

or sticking to 5w-30 ? or upgrade to 5w-40 thicker?

any kind of oil recomandation ? what brand

maybe u can suggest top 3 oil brand for us with high mileage car

much appreciated

If your engine is not consuming oil, you can stick with 5W30.. If it has oil consumption issue, then you should go a notch up and use 5W40.

As per position taken by Thrust above .

Having said that, why haven't I been using 5W30/0W30 in almost a decade ? I did use 10W30 (and 15W40) minerals however .

With access to online promotional price since , I had switched from minerals to 0W, 5W and 10W40 till todate , with options to extend oil change intervals longer ..... up to 15-20K km for an Avanza .

If only there is offer of 0W/5W 30 with MB229.5/51/52 at similar price points as M1 0W40 and/or Helix Ultra 5W40 carrying MB229.5, I would switch for sure at 317K km todate . Caveat being it has to be ACEA with MB/VW approvals for protection, no ordinary SN ....

ACEA with MB/VW approvals from 5W30 of Shell ( HX7, HX8 , Helix Ultra), Mobil 1 ( AFE or EP or High Mileage-if valve seal and/or crank seal leaks) , and Petronas Syntium (parallel imports) are good oils to consider , not suggesting others are inferior .

Edit: Above Shell ,Mobil 1 and Syntium typically carries Moly and/or Boron too . Another + .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 2 2021, 10:11 AM

Bro very appreciate that you take your time to check my blotter, and giving the advice that really taking away my worry. phew what a relieve.

Regarding the fuel delivery system which showing in my oil is absence of halo translucent annulus in the outermost zone, could it be the piston ring still in good condition and having good sealing? IDK

Hmm talking about metal wear on the Volvo engine I guess it happend during my 2hours long journey travel. The Engine temperature did spike to abnormal level for few times during my full throttle for more than 1minutes, but it still left 20% before hitting to the critical red zone of the temperature gauge. Temperature go back to normal when I press only half throttle. Culprit to the temperature spike is the coolant reservoir having tiny leak and causing water fall to minimum level mark of the reservoir.

My thought to using the HDEO for 3months then I could drain those debris out ASAP. I'm new to HDEO and I'm worry they have very much detergent than PCEO which may harm my old engine seal, and it is also the reason I'm not willing to try those super fast 15mins engine flush,yet. What do you think about these engine flush?

How do I know the oil has good dose of boron? Is it the thing TBN(total base number) or Sulfated Ash in thiers PDS(product data sheet）or SDS?

Ohya I had forgotten to ask you about the Helix Ultra that is manufactured in AUG 17, and can I still use those old oil? When is the expiry date of engine oil?

Thank you.

IMO, it is the efficient and effective fuel/combustion system, though aged, that produces no unburnt fuel hence total absence of fuel dilution phenomenon in the two engines .

I'm unaware of a 'theory' that fuel dilution could be stopped/eliminated by a piston ring system .



IME, it is this leakage/bursting of this coolant levels during engine operation resulting in engine overheating that you may want to watch out for .



Despite its age and short drives , I don't really see there is any damaging levels of 'debris' within the engines that must be removed by 'extra-ordinary' means ........... or ...... by hook or by crook .

3 month or 12 month removal duration makes no difference as to the engine longevity IMO .

Any ordinary PCMO or HDEO would be more than enough to undo the harm, if any .

Your worry of harm to engine oil seal by 'top' detergency/dispersancy properties of HDEO is unjustified and self-fright in my assessment .

I too would be unwilling to try those 15 mins engine flush as per your position .

Having seen the 'effectiveness' of (DPS) engine flush in physically removing 'debris' in several blotter spot tests in this thread , I do not and I would not advocate its use even in my high mileage or high oci engine .



Boron ppm reading in the form of pricy VOA/UOA with which I would not expend . One may speculate its relation with TBN/SaPS , and it remains a speculation .

So called (5 year) expiry date by oil companies did not hold water in several UOA/VOA's that I had read .
Yes I would use that Helix Ultra even if it was made in 2007 or 2017 , for a blotter spot test is your guiding hand .

Tq for the answer above, zeng and thrust

really appreciate what oil should i used..
gonna stick to fully i think ..




This is my blotter.. 24 hours
2k mileage since oil change
5w30 petronas syntium 3000 se fully
car mileage 303 600

This post has been edited by jin^manusia: Feb 14 2021, 12:24 PM

How much you bought your Syntium 3000 SE?

I recently bought the Syntium 3000 5W30 from Paulhew for the price of only RM119.

From jpcauto.. donno ori or not.. but seem the seller all oil he sell kinda sold out..

Quite a good bargain wor!

Hi Jin ,

The centre zone of this 2,000 km oil is not darkened , and it is transparent ... which is good news .

However, there is clear emergence of darkened shape of aureole zone/perimeter ring indicating coagulation/agglomeration of combustion by-products and/or detergency/dispersancy properties of Syntium 5W30 begins to breakdown ....
which is harmless for now but it is something one needs to closely monitor its further development .

Diffusion zone is clean and transparent indicating quite low levels of contaminants/dirt .

Absence of darkened jagged edge indicates absence of water moisture in this 2,000 km sample, as it should be .

There is slight signs of fuel dilution with 'shallow' halo at the outermost zone , probably due to short trips or the cold blotter sample was taken after a short drive .

Overall, this used oil has plenty of life left , despite emergence of darkened aureole zone/perimeter ring and it is good for continuing service in the City IMO .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 15 2021, 12:53 PM

If this oil from Paulhew has FR (meaning with Ford Renault Approvals), which I think is likely , then it has higher specification requirement than Jin's basic API SN specs oil .

Nope, the Syntium 3000 and also the 3000SE are basically identical blend which is of lower specification that the FR.

But I think the 3000 is sufficient for my car's usage (Honda City).

Inspira 2.0, 170k km
Oil blotter is 10.3k km. Should be 3 days old, or more as I forgot about it.
SHU 5w-40. Bought from. Local hypermarket, T o H, can't remember too.
Added about 300ml of Shell Rimula 15w-40 as it needs more than 4L of lube.

Not sure what's the black dots is from the engine, or anything under my driver seat. I placed the blotter paper there.
Will try another blotter to verify before oil change.

What do u think about this image?



This post has been edited by ahsam1212: Feb 18 2021, 12:38 AM

Hi Bro,

Not sure which particular black dots you are refering to , but it appears on the upper half of the blotter spot there are like 3 unbroken lines (or is it 2 ?) that were 'touching' supports from below the paper placements during the duration of dispersion of oil deposits/spots ...........
which is something to be avoided for 'perfection' but no harm in a way .

There is absence of darkened centre zone and it is transparent , which is good news .

The aureole zone/perimeter ring is very vaguely/mildly darkened and is hard to identidy .....,
which is good news too .

Overall , there is no agglomeration of combustion by products or commencement of breakdown of detergency/dispersancy properties of this 10.3k km shu 5W40 used oil .

Not sure if the 300 ml of HDEO Rimula 15W40 has made any contribution to the above blotter with its stronger detergency/dispersancy properties in typical HDEO .

The diffussion zone is clean and light coloured , indicating quite low level of contaminants .

External jagged edge is only very vaguely and slightly darkened indicating lower levels of water moisture contamination for this 10.3k km used oil, but water moisture there is .

No signs of translucent halo at the outermost zone indicating fuel dilution phenomenon is absent , probably from your appropriate pattern of running this Inspira 2.0L around town .

IMHO, this cocktail of SHU 5W40 with 300 ml of Rimula 15W40 at 10.3k km mileage is still serviceable and good to go , if you're comfortable about extending it .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 18 2021, 11:38 AM

Yeah, a basic SN/SM/SL would have been adequately specified* by Asian/Jap OEMs like Honda etc whereby an ACEA or Ford/Renault/MB/VW approvals would not be required and unneccessary , if and only if Ford/Renault approved oils cost one a lot more with low availability ..............
which being in Klang valley it isn't true as far as I am concerned, whether or not there are online promotional offers or otherwise .

*Edit :
In the context of conservative OEM recommended oil change intervals .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 18 2021, 02:44 PM