Will upload my my oil blotter test sample after 11k (ard 1-2 more days)
Previously uploaded at 10k.

Car: Toyota vios (dugong) 2nd gen
Engine oil: shell helix ultra 5w40

@zeng, dps engine flush vs seafoam engine flush any major difference?
Will do flushing with cheap engine oil before try new engine oil.


Dang, giant is selling at rm89.90 for shell helix ultra 5w40

This post has been edited by tanalvis: Dec 27 2020, 12:56 PM

I think you meant to say 1 K here ?

Thank you for providing details like car model and oil model which makes cross-checking with Post # 1 easier .

I am no fan of engine flush like DPS or Seafoam , hence haven't read up much and compare .

But subsequent oil blotter spot tests from said engines shows early emergence of darkened aureole zone aka perimeter ring which may mean presence of higher quantity of black carbons or contaminants from previous engine flush .

One may interpret that the 'blackened' stuff have been removed by the effective engine flush from engine/piston ring areas .



SHU 5W40 4L pack Long Life with GTL base oils for RM 89.90 is really no brainer for 'all' Asian and NA (North American) engines .

It is also a no brainer for most or all current Euro engines that comes without Diesel Particulate Filter DPF , price wise and quality wise !

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 28 2020, 12:55 PM

Yup correct. Here is the new blotter test image

Toyota Vios 2008 2nd gen (dugong)
Current odo: 169,919 km
Date: 26/12/2020
Blotter time: after ard 54 hours
Oil age: 10,814 km
Engine oil: shell helix ultra 5w40





The deal is too good to pass on, so bought one for parent's Honda CRV.
As for my car, I'm contemplating to choose Castrol stop start A5/b5 or Petronas Syntium 3000 FR, but will change to 5W30


This post has been edited by tanalvis: Dec 28 2020, 10:32 PM

Hi Bro,

Looking at the outermost zone of translucent halo and its size , there is quite a major fuel dilution problem in the engine of this 10,814 km blotter spot which theoretically promotes oil degradation .

But it appears to me this blotter spot test suggests this fuel dilution/oil degradation 'potential' to be inconsequential at this mileage and not something to be worried about with sleepless nights .

There is absence of darkened centre zone and darkened aureole zone/perimeter ring and no signs of harmfull agglomeration of contaminants , which is good news as to the continuing serviceability of this used oil sample at 11K km usage .

Its detergency and dispersancy properties are still in top shape IMHO .

The transparent diffussion zone is mildly grayish and not darkened/blackish indicating quite low levels of combustion contaminants and dirt .

Brownish jagged edges surrounding the diffusion zone indicates the presence of water moisture in the used oil which appears harmless by looking at the blotter spot and its performance .

IMO, this used oil is still in serviceable condition .

Everything else being equal , I would personally prefer Syntium 3000 FR 5W30 approved by Ford/Renault to Castrol Stop Start 5W30 A5 which does not claim Ford approval .

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 29 2020, 01:17 PM

engine - campro vvt
odometer - 84k
engine oil mileage - 4k
engine oil - Mobil1 Super 2000 10w40

hi bro zeng, can you help me on this? engine just running 20k after rebuild and retune(standalone management)

my concern now is my engine oil turn darker fairly quickly, even before rebuild, notice this problem after installed standalone management, tune related maybe? i change my oil every month now, been trying urania 3000ls hdeo, syntium 800 10w40, problem still persist, oil turn very dark even after 1.5k running

no smoke or whatever on the exhaust

This post has been edited by OvenBaked: Dec 31 2020, 09:45 AM

Could it be your engine is running rich on fuel?

Might be, here my spark plug, too rich on idle?

I see your engine is running too rich from the dark build up around the spark plug.

Try to reduce the fuel delivery into the combustion camber a little and see whether there is improvement.

Hi ,

Centre zone is a bit grayish but not darkened or blackened yet , indicating a certain level of heavy and/or large size wear/contaminant particles floating around within the oil .

Emergence of darkened aureole zone /perimeter ring is quite obvious and something of relative concern requiring monitoring in the 4k km used oil . In a 84k Odo MPI(?)engine , I'm a bit 'confused' .

Diffusion zone is light coloured and transparent which is good news indeed .

Absence of darkened/gray jagged edge external to diffusion zone indicates absence of water moisture , typically .

Generally there is absence of translucent halo at the outermost zone indicating no obvious fuel dilution problem , if any . Tuning or your driving pattern may have helped this .

Overall, IMO this 4k km used semisyn Mobil1 Super 2000 10w40 is good and serviceable .

However you may want to monitor the emergent slightly darkened aureole zone which may mean tendency of undesirable agglomeration of contaminants or combustion by-products .

Engine oil turns darker fairly quick ? Could it be due to your usage of Euro ACEA spec oil , whose additives can/may be darker than non-ACEA oil ? Try a non-ACEA oil for comparison , I would suggest .

HDEO in diesel engines is always darker like Urania btw .

Mind sharing what scope of 'rebuild' was done ? Standalone management means ..... ???

Frankly, I'm quite astonished at your mentioned monthly oil change idea/practice not that you are wrong about it .

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 31 2020, 10:35 AM

General overhauled, oversize piston and port polished head, standalone management mean aftermarket ecu,

im quite worrying about this, might be my oil catch tank clogged, pcv not function properly, thus cause combustion by product cant get out of the crankcase properly, need to study more on this

As opined by @Thrust , the darkened spark plug internal clearly demonstrates presence of unburnt carbon as caused by too rich a feul mixture from the combustion system which I would attribute it solely to the tuning done and/or engine ecu software .

General engine overhaul and/or oversize piston in itself should not be part of the problem .

Your contention on clogged catch can/pcv may sound logical to explain the spark plug carbon problem, I'm of the opinion replacing/rectifying pcv/catch can would not eliminate/resolve this phenomenon .

Your probable option is to take another look/redo on engine tuning , if and when fairly quick darkening of engine oil is of concern to you and not forgetting increased fuel consumption presently .

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 31 2020, 08:10 PM

Hi Zeng,

This is my new finding I found this useful blotter test, please advice me if I did something wrong and lets discuss and learn new things around us.

I would like your advice about my oil. Taken this oil after 10mins of engine shut down after a 30mins smooth driving on less traffic road. Picture was taken 72hrs after oil was dipped on envelope paper.

Oil: TOTAL Semi Synthetic.Quartz 7000Energy. 10W-40. API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4. Aeon BIG. Click HERE for extensive review
Age of oil: 6 months
Oil filter: HAMP
Age of oil filter: 12months

Oil Mileage: 2600KM(distance is not accurate here since I always spend half of my driving time in waiting at traffic light)
Engine hours: 85hours(I guess this is better way to measure my super short city stop and go driving)

Vehicle: Honda Accord S86.Year 2000.
Engine: F23A(2,254 cc) SOHC VTEC.
Driving condition: 1week 7days of daily driving to work place, Usually 13min per drive.
92% short distance city driving,8% or 7hours for a long distance drive(about 600KM).
First start of the day in the morning never idle warm up just drive slowly in my taman for around 1KM/2minutes.
All the way using auto shifting that is mean my RPM always below 2000RPM.

Is there alot of soot in my oil? What do you think I switch to HDEO 10W-30 CI-4 oil for 3months just for cleaning purpose?

Thank you.

This post has been edited by Benck: Jan 23 2021, 11:45 AM


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Hi Zeng,this is my 2nd Car.

Taken this oil after 10mins of engine shut down after a 30mins smooth driving on less traffic road. Picture was taken 72hrs after oil was dipped on envelope paper.

Oil: NISSAN TOTAL Semi Synthetic. 10W-40. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B4. Click HERE for this oil's specification
Age of oil: 6 months
Oil filter: Volvo
Age of oil filter: 12months

Oil Mileage: 2200KM(distance is not accurate here since I always spend half of my driving time in waiting at traffic light)
Engine hours: 80hours(I guess this is better way to measure my super short city stop and go driving)

Vehicle: Volvo B230E.Automatic. Year 1987.
Engine: B230E SOHC(2,316 cc) Fuel Injection.
Driving condition: 1week 7days of daily driving to work place, Usually 13min per drive. 98% short distance city driving.
First start of the day in the morning idle less than 1minute for oil circulation,then drive with soft acceleration in 1st gear around 1500-2000RPM in my taman for around 1KM/2minutes,before hitting to the main street.

Is there alot of soot in my oil? What do you think I switch to HDEO 10W-30 CI-4 oil for 3months just for cleaning purpose?

Thank you.

This post has been edited by Benck: Jan 23 2021, 11:39 AM


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Hi Bro , glad to learn that you find this blotter test thread useful . I hope its practice would help taking away from users some emotional stress/worry/tension whilst agak'ing (speculating) extent of 'damage' to one's equipments/engines .......
needlessly and 'unjustifiably' raising one's blood pressure to higher levels and the best part is , it is Free and Easy .

Hmm.... you do very well indeed in the way your procedure have been appropriate in taking oil sampling for blotter test IMHO .

Now on centre zone . It is slightly grayed though 2600 km mileage (in 6 months) is low'ish . Good news is it is not darkened and it is not opaque ,yet .

However, such low mileage used oil shows rather obviously quite dark/blackened aureole zone/perimeter ring indicating 'unwanted' agglomeration of combustion by-products/contaminants .

The further aggravation/deterioration of Detergency and Dispersancy properties of a functioning engine oil could lead to unusually high metal wear rate between the contacting surfaces within the engine .

Hence, you may want to monitor closely the degree of darkness and transparency of the aureole zone .....
as far as this Honda engine of yours is concerned .

External to the aureole zone , the diffusion zone is transparent (good news) basically ....
and its contaminant/soot/dirt levels are not high IMO , as an unknown portion of the combustion contaminants had been 'retained and agglomerated' at the aureole zone and its creation (which is bad news) and prevented from further diffusing and traveling in outward direction from deposit/centre zone to the diffusion zone .

There is absence of darkened jagged zig-zag edge outside of diffusion zone indicating negligible or undetectable level of water moisture within the used oil sample .

There is some halo signs in the external zone indicating presence of fuel dilution phenomenon which may be considered as 'typical' of a low mileage 2600 km oil over 6 months usage .

IMHO , your Honda engine mechanical condition could be further improved by increasing the frequency or number of round trips per start for > 30 minutes and exceeding 3000 rpm ...., long distance driving is better still .....

Absence of warm up idling at morning start is good for fuel economy and good to warm up engine oil in a short time duration which in turn helps retain good engine condition .... do carry on as you did .

I don't consider this 6 month oil as having high levels of soot/dirt/contaminants and instead , I think it is the unwanted, early and 'premature' oil contaminants agglomeration in such low 2600 km mileage oil that is worrying/unwelcome to users and this is to be prevented from emerging or, if emerged from further deteriorating .....

Your suggestion of switching from PCMO to HDEO (10W-30 CI-4) is indeed very very well placed with its super duper Detergency and Dispersancy properties , which is essential and useful in tackling your current oil contaminant agglomeration phenomenon, which as and being a prerequisite, that leads to deterioration of oil Detergency/Dispersancy properties consequentially causing high metal wear rates ........
should you continue with your current poor and bad driving pattern of 13 minutes per start, among others .

Overall, I'm of the opinion this used 2600 km 6 month oil is still serviceable and fit for continuing service .

Edit : Ooops ..... a second sample , give me a bit of time please .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 23 2021, 12:33 PM

Nissan Total semisyn 10W40 SL A3/B4,
2200 km over 6 months in a 1987 Volvo B230E 2.3L SOHC MPFI ...

The centre zone is a bit grayish , but it basically remains transparent which is good news .
However within the enlarged/magnified centre zone , one can 'see' clearly spots of very blackish/darkish contrast in relation to the whitish background .

I would speculate this phenomenon arises from the presence of heavy particles/debris in possibly coagulated metal wear particles (like iron/copper/aluminium etc, ) and/or agglomerated organic combustion contaminants etc . But who knows it may not be the case IDK, in particular without evidence/facts from a pricy UOA to support this speculation on my part .

As quite similar to Total Qaurtz Energy 10W40 with 2600 km in another car i.e Honda Accord , there is obvious emergence of slightly grayed/darkened aureole zone/perimeter ring which may require close monitoring on your part .

Diffusion zone is generally clean and transparent , absence of darkened jagged external edge and absence of halo translucent annulus in the outermost zone , which I'm honestly quite surprised with both your low mileage oil samples over 6 month usage . It indicates fuel delivery systems of both engines are in quite a tip-top conditions despite of rather frequent short drives .

My other previous comments on your Honda generally applies in this Volvo , a difference being Honda appears to have lesser metal wear particles vs Volvo , IMHO .

Generally, this 2000 km used Nissan Total 10W40 is still serviceable and may not due for replacement, as yet .

Edit : Why would you consider/suggest an HDEO for 3 month usage ?
IMO HDEO is good for both of your applications > 12 months .
However with very dark spots within the centre zone in 1987 Volvo , you may want to consider a thicker oil like 15W40 E7/E9 in the case of HDEO or a PCMO xW40 with 'heavy' doses of Boron and/or Molybdenum like say, Mobil 1 0W40 to see if they help with reduced metal wear particles ?
20W50 or 15W50 ? Why not ......... IMHO .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 25 2021, 12:35 PM

Hi Zeng

got some off topic question,

i do have old honda city idsi, clocking 310k mile

i need ur suggestion, what kind of oil should i be using ?

or sticking to 5w-30 ? or upgrade to 5w-40 thicker?

any kind of oil recomandation ? what brand

maybe u can suggest top 3 oil brand for us with high mileage car

much appreciated

If your engine is not consuming oil, you can stick with 5W30.. If it has oil consumption issue, then you should go a notch up and use 5W40.

As per position taken by Thrust above .

Having said that, why haven't I been using 5W30/0W30 in almost a decade ? I did use 10W30 (and 15W40) minerals however .

With access to online promotional price since , I had switched from minerals to 0W, 5W and 10W40 till todate , with options to extend oil change intervals longer ..... up to 15-20K km for an Avanza .

If only there is offer of 0W/5W 30 with MB229.5/51/52 at similar price points as M1 0W40 and/or Helix Ultra 5W40 carrying MB229.5, I would switch for sure at 317K km todate . Caveat being it has to be ACEA with MB/VW approvals for protection, no ordinary SN ....

ACEA with MB/VW approvals from 5W30 of Shell ( HX7, HX8 , Helix Ultra), Mobil 1 ( AFE or EP or High Mileage-if valve seal and/or crank seal leaks) , and Petronas Syntium (parallel imports) are good oils to consider , not suggesting others are inferior .

Edit: Above Shell ,Mobil 1 and Syntium typically carries Moly and/or Boron too . Another + .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 2 2021, 10:11 AM

Bro very appreciate that you take your time to check my blotter, and giving the advice that really taking away my worry. phew what a relieve.

Regarding the fuel delivery system which showing in my oil is absence of halo translucent annulus in the outermost zone, could it be the piston ring still in good condition and having good sealing? IDK

Hmm talking about metal wear on the Volvo engine I guess it happend during my 2hours long journey travel. The Engine temperature did spike to abnormal level for few times during my full throttle for more than 1minutes, but it still left 20% before hitting to the critical red zone of the temperature gauge. Temperature go back to normal when I press only half throttle. Culprit to the temperature spike is the coolant reservoir having tiny leak and causing water fall to minimum level mark of the reservoir.

My thought to using the HDEO for 3months then I could drain those debris out ASAP. I'm new to HDEO and I'm worry they have very much detergent than PCEO which may harm my old engine seal, and it is also the reason I'm not willing to try those super fast 15mins engine flush,yet. What do you think about these engine flush?

How do I know the oil has good dose of boron? Is it the thing TBN(total base number) or Sulfated Ash in thiers PDS(product data sheet）or SDS?

Ohya I had forgotten to ask you about the Helix Ultra that is manufactured in AUG 17, and can I still use those old oil? When is the expiry date of engine oil?

Thank you.

IMO, it is the efficient and effective fuel/combustion system, though aged, that produces no unburnt fuel hence total absence of fuel dilution phenomenon in the two engines .

I'm unaware of a 'theory' that fuel dilution could be stopped/eliminated by a piston ring system .



IME, it is this leakage/bursting of this coolant levels during engine operation resulting in engine overheating that you may want to watch out for .



Despite its age and short drives , I don't really see there is any damaging levels of 'debris' within the engines that must be removed by 'extra-ordinary' means ........... or ...... by hook or by crook .

3 month or 12 month removal duration makes no difference as to the engine longevity IMO .

Any ordinary PCMO or HDEO would be more than enough to undo the harm, if any .

Your worry of harm to engine oil seal by 'top' detergency/dispersancy properties of HDEO is unjustified and self-fright in my assessment .

I too would be unwilling to try those 15 mins engine flush as per your position .

Having seen the 'effectiveness' of (DPS) engine flush in physically removing 'debris' in several blotter spot tests in this thread , I do not and I would not advocate its use even in my high mileage or high oci engine .



Boron ppm reading in the form of pricy VOA/UOA with which I would not expend . One may speculate its relation with TBN/SaPS , and it remains a speculation .

So called (5 year) expiry date by oil companies did not hold water in several UOA/VOA's that I had read .
Yes I would use that Helix Ultra even if it was made in 2007 or 2017 , for a blotter spot test is your guiding hand .