In the end all guesswork.

And if you say its supposed to filter that low micron, your eyes also can't see them how do you determine the darker color is contaminant and is not deteriorated oil?

And even even I mention deteriorated oil, how deteriorated do you know it is? You cant gauge viscosity properly nor can you check flash point or insolubles.

My oil samples are way darker than that due to rough /high stress /track usage and yet UOA turn out fine.

Logic here: if your oil filter is so good, you also don't need to oil change and supposedly all your drained oil would look damn nice right? (assuming you use good oil)

And again, all I posted here, would all be estimates /guesswork without a proper UOA

There is no need to get agitated. I never claimed that "my oil filter" is that good. Also didn't claim viscosity of the oil can be determined through visual inspection nor flash point or any else. Just pointing out that the fact on how an oil filter can filter accordingly as per what was stated. Taking no credit here nor deserve any. Also what I state by gauging the condition of the oil is also based on my point of view that it is absolutely not practical for me and I believe the majority here to get a UOA analysis done during OCI. So I'll just based on the typical recommended mileage aside from color of the oil and buttfeel to know when and at what mileage an oil change is required. But again that's just me.

Guesswork ............... oorrrrrr ....... spewing utter RUBBISH here !





https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthread...ang#Post4325795

What's the credentials of poster SonofJoe ???
........... read on in Bitog!

Note: AO=Anti Oxidants ..... an additive in (engine) oils.

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 17 2017, 04:12 PM

Not agitated at all. Just trying to highlight of the unknown variables that we just couldn't conclude anything.

?:
- oil filter
- Oil
- Wear
- Contaminants

Besides, given the resistance even on a Blotter test, good luck on convincing people for a proper UOA that involves so much more money
(even for myself, it's been a very long time since my last UOA)

Blunt lol.

.

A personal butt feel review on Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 5w40 synthetic blend:

- Oil goes dark after 4 months of use and 5k km mileage
- Engine significantly consume more fuel onward
- Engine noise during cold start is significantly louder and a slightly rougher drive onward

OC done to mobil 1 0w40 after 6 months at 7k km mileage.

Using on 2GR-FE engine.

Just can't bring myself to let it slide on to 10k km lol.

Previously was on Motul H-Tech 100 plus 5w30, also done the OC around 6k km mileage. Same occurrence.

maybe off-topic..... i think you cant blame the liqui moly tt4100 as its literature clearly states that "Use only in conjunction with sulfur-free diesel fuel!".... and our euro2m has 500ppm sulphur, no way can be termed as sulphur-free.

maybe you should pick a more robust mid-sap engine oil rather than a low-sap oil.

Hi, seems like different sampling method results in different appearance . On toilet paper it ended up as clear brown circle, but on printing paper it came out as dark circle (not dark spot btw). Not sure if this is final appearance, or Will it change again after 48hrs?
Anyway, feel free to comment. Thanks everyone.

Car make: Nissan AD Resort 1.6L
Engine: GA16 carburetted
Odometer: 281912km
EO: Duron XL 0w30
Clocked mileage: 10912km

This post has been edited by chemistry: Feb 18 2017, 03:32 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

So... I just pull out the dip stick, and let it drop onto paper? I've got some, mh, 150-200 mg higher quality printing paper that I'm going to use.

Thank you Chemistry for the preliminary pictures.
It debunks nonsense like:
a) ...your oil is clear, it isn't doing its job in suspending contaminants;
b).... after 48 hours the contaminants in the oil sink to the bottom and stay suspended there leaving a cleaner oil as shown;
c) ...Your eyes definitely cannot see metal particles etc etc .....
spewing unsubstantiated rubbish here while we are on another type(or method) of oil analysis among the many currently being practised in the industry!

Just as variations in UOA titration methodology, vigorousness, temperature , time duration etc in better regulated laboratory practices can affect and influence negatively on results and/or conclusions ...... hence the need for consisstency in paper medium (as printer/ letter head papers etc) and pictures after 24/48 hours etc is equally helpful in consistency .....
Yes, it changes in the first 48 hours or so......
Awaiting the 48 hour picture .

Yes, let it drop onto the paper or let it touches the paper whichever you feel comfortable and consistent.
150-200 mg paper would be good.
Try observe how the blots changes during the first 48 hours, and upload pictures for comment, meanwhile noting down OLM percentage left at OCI.

OLM?

Oops ..... GM's terminology of Oil Life Monitor (given in percentage), VW calls it some other name ...... that indicates the time by the car engine when oil change is due.
This enables a comparison of OLM reading against Blotter Spot Test picture/condition or physical visual inspection.

48hrs done.

Thanks, Chemistry.

My quick amateurish guess, subject to challenge by the experienced, hands-on AND learned members........
and being overthrown ..... hehehe

a1)The Centre Zone (assuming 8 mm diameter at centre/point of blot deposit ) is transparent/translucent meaning not opaque and slightly grayish indicating deposits of (heaviest portion of) high molecular weight rubbish like combustion carbonaceous byproducts/insolubles/wear metals Fe Cu /resins etc etc .

a2)Good news is..... this 8 mm Centre Zone is not sharp and clear;it's not opaque; and colour is not very dark carbon black (hitam manis) and 8 mm perimeter line is not clear and sharp and shining yet.

b1)The Diffusion Zone of ( Outer Diameter max at say, 30 mm ) AND (Inner Diameter of 8 mm) .......
actually it is an annulus enclosing the Centre Zone ......
is generally lighter colour than Centre Zone .....
because the dispersants in oils take lighter weight rubbish like combustion byproducts/resins etc (of lower molecular weight) in an outward direction as the oil is travelling/seeping away from the Centre Zone.

b2)Good news is this Diffusion Zone is not darkish and its expanded Outer Diameter OD the bigger the better (in relation to the size of Centre Zone ), assuming a known quantity (in drops?) is constant.

c) Refering to postings in my Bitog thread, your 48 hour Blot Spot is what they call 'there is no structures' or 'the structures are very light and mild' ...........
meaning the used oil sample had been holding up well, whatever its mileage of xx km, and is still in continuing serviceable condition.

d) SonofJoe would call it in the midst of Phase 1, whereby he too commented (in primary/secondary stages of ... i.e in my classification )Phase 2 is deemed good.

e) I would 'speculate' that after you add another few thousand kilometres of use in this 10,912 km sample , 'some' members from Bitog might still classify it as Phase 1, though another may say it's Phase 2.

f) Several purely 'technical' and 'physics' commmentaries by several experienced members from Bitog (who had actually personnally do and evaluate the 'job' by their own physical 'hands and fingers' whilst referencing materials in the web .......
may form a solid basis for you to consider and making assessments and finally making your own call.
Do consider and just take comments from 'arm chair' commentators carefully (to avoid being confused) , and in certain cases, with a pinch of salt....... typically in www ....

g) One thing is certain, your engine has no glycol contamination problem and no severe fuel dilution problem, as yet.

So, should you replace this 10912 km used fullsyn Duron XL 0W30 immediately ????
Well , that's your call ..... adopting/abandoning certain 'opinions' and 'suggestions' along the way.

I had been keeping going ... on and on ....
until a day/mileage where I'm not comfortable with the onset and appearance of a 'very sharp and dark black hitam manis and opaque' Centre Zone ......
which I believe I had yet to see it in my 12238 km sample of semisyn Quartz 7000 Energy 10W40.

To each his own !!

Just my 2 sen

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 19 2017, 06:28 PM

Many thanks for taking time to comment here.
Although it's kinda too technical for me to understand, it's good to hear u said “no glycol contamination & no severe fuel dilution”, I believe many would not want this to happen.

On another note, Duron XL 0w30 is actually a synthetic blend HDEO. And yes, before posting here I already planned next change when this oil completed 12000km. My friends asked me don't be too stingy with EO, you know what, this Duron XL has been in service since December 2015.

Sorry for misrepresenting XL 0W30 as fullsyn oils.
Generally dual rated HDEO oils is more stout than PCMO oils, I believe.

Hahaha ......> 14 months usage ........
so much for the myth here that engine oil must be replaced at not more than 12 months.

At 12000 km OCI, appreciate if you could upload here its Blotter Spot Tests pictures for comparisons.

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 21 2017, 12:23 PM

Semi Synthetic Total Quartz 7000 Energy 10W40 A3B4 SL,
in 2007 Toyota Avanza 1.3L K3VE,
13,000 km..... and going .......

2 hour blot attached.

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 23 2017, 10:00 PM

Passsing 13,000 km ...... and soldiering on .... towards 8500 miles (13,600 km) OCI.
Quartz Energy 10W40 semi synthetics in Avanza K3VE 1.3L engine..
48 hour blot spot.

Update: 13673 km and going..
Total Quartz Energy 10W40.
72 hour Blot Spot.