Typo on the date for second picture?

For the second picture, oil is dark and contaminated definitely due for a change.

I would advice against using till such condition as with contaminant shown through oil dip means there may be plenty down somewhere within the block, bearing or anywhere within reach of the oil. Clearly the oil filter is no longer working in this case.

Definitely not typo.
The dark one is BEFORE, clear one is AFTER 48hrs.

Typo on the date for second picture?

For the second picture, oil is dark and contaminated definitely due for a change.

I would advice against using till such condition as with contaminant shown through oil dip means there may be plenty down somewhere within the block, bearing or anywhere within reach of the oil. Clearly the oil filter is no longer working in this case.

Cannot brain the logic behind haha. Mind to elaborate on the oil taken before and 48 hours after?

There's another saying that if your oil is clear,  it isn't doing its job in suspending contaminants.

My guess also,  is after 48 hours the contaminants in the oil sink to the bottom and stay suspended there leaving a cleaner oil as shown.

Ultimately,  it's all guesswork.

The best and proper way is still a UOA. bar none,  the end.

Your eyes definitely cannot see metal particles and those you can see are beyond spectrometer that UOA uses and that's actually prompt for concerns.

I dripped EO on toilet paper, haha.
Here's the result.

Both are the same oil,  Sir.
It's the same oil drip.
One picture was taken instantly after dripping on paper. After 48hrs took another picture (of the same sample).
From beginning till the end there is only one sample.

Thanks for the clarification.

I'm still curious though, how did the visually visible contaminants went missing after 48 hours? Dried and evaporated into the thin air?

There's another saying that if your oil is clear,  it isn't doing its job in suspending contaminants.

My guess also,  is after 48 hours the contaminants in the oil sink to the bottom and stay suspended there leaving a cleaner oil as shown.

Ultimately,  it's all guesswork.

The best and proper way is still a UOA. bar none,  the end.

Your eyes definitely cannot see metal particles and those you can see are beyond spectrometer that UOA uses and that's actually prompt for concerns.

my guess is there wasn't any visible contaminant in the b4 pic.... the so-called contaminants are uneven spots on the toilet paper temporarily holding a minute amount of used oil, hence visibly darker and mistakenly interpreted as contaminants.

on 2nd pic, the oil spreaded/blotted over the paper over time so cant "see" the contaminants anymore.

my guess is there wasn't any visible contaminant in the b4 pic.... the so-called contaminants are uneven spots on the toilet paper temporarily holding a minute amount of used oil, hence visibly darker and mistakenly interpreted as contaminants.

on 2nd pic, the oil spreaded/blotted over the paper over time so cant "see" the contaminants anymore.

Perhaps chemistry should do another try, this time on a proper base to find out haha.

Edit: I have done spot test as well before on tissue and toilet papers but the unevenness observed was in patches rather than dots lol.

Waooooooooooooo .......
fantastic blotter spot at 10600 km you have, Chemistry.
Great combination of Duron 10W30 oil and this engine at 281000 km.
You could've gone on extending OCI further, IMHO.
Btw, care to share the engine/car model with us here ?

Edit:There is simply too heavy a dose of 'myths' on oils in lowyat, IMHO.
Edit2:Without chromatography laboratory paper, it's appropriate to use thick name card/printer paper/letter head etc. for relative comparisons.

Nissan AD Resort Y10, engine GA16 carburetor.
At hand now I have some bank statement white papers, i shall use the blank side for BST later.

Bank/Telco statements are good enough for our purpose,
no need wasting money go buy costly 'chromatography papers' from gwailo countries and start bragging here how good is 'chromatography papers' over bank statement papers bla... bla.... bla...
and condemning the use of 'sub standard' bank statement papers in lowyat............
leading to rubbish/guessing/tak bolih pakai results bla .... bla ... bla....

Btw, do show both the 0-0.5 hrs Blot spot AND the 48 hrs Blot spot to debunk some of the above ............rxxxxxh statements!

I haven't heard an expert suggest that in a long time. In those days of carburetors perhaps it still made sense, but how many of those are still around? All modern cars don't need to be warmed up, and shouldn't be warmed up by idling.

I believe my Xsara was always serviced every 20k or 25k, using normal oil, and up until 150k there was no issue. I did end up having a leaking head gasket, but is that related to the engine oil? From what I know that particular engine is rather tough, except for the head gasket. (Fortunately on that engine it's relatively cheap to fix).

I don't know of any higher engine failure rate, and you can find hundreds of Mercedes for sale that have 500000 km or more on the clock.

But I'm not aware of any statistics about engine defects... maybe it's worse than in Malaysia, maybe it isn't.

How to do the blotter test? Can I use normal printing paper? Like 80g, and relatively fine? Just take out the dipstick and let it drop onto the paper? I have one week to do it... oil change is coming up at the end of the month.

Noted that.
Will post here once completed.