tht time i thought metalzone is the only guy who selling WC stuffs... tht's y... and also read some article at overclockers.com mentioning the importance of using coolants in the loop to prevent corrosion, http://www.overclockers.com/tips1153/

it says tht using distilled water + coolants(hydrx etc) + biocide give one of the best result i think, of course with proper mixture of it... so for my latest loop, i used 1/2 small bottle of hydrx + 1liter of distilled water instead of 1 bottle for 1 liter of distilled water , do u think tht adding biocide after couple of months of usage still effective ?

bring in la, DDC3.2 with custom tops, currently selling few of my extra items to get $$$ , i am the one who is very interested on those DDC's + custom top long ago... but due to old version DDC reliability, end up with Liang D4(its D4, not D5... classic )

* after reading and googling, i think the content of Ethlyne Glycol in Hydrx are minimal compare to car coolants, i think its 0.0x% compare to car coolants which some of them reaching quite high percentage such as 15% and more...

also i notice tht with more distilled water and less hydrx, its actually minimize the clouding issue on tubings... so worth a try for some who still wants some bling on their loop...

This post has been edited by lichyetan: Aug 7 2008, 10:30 PM

i see, interesting, will experiment on it soon, but afaik, some redline water wetter + biocide (yes, mine kills algae >:D )+ distilled water is the best, well, diff people, diff concoction, but those by premade coolants by TT and giga, is obnoxious, as its an insult to so called "coolants"

but so far, i recommend is to use distilled water + biocide and some UV dyes if you want some color la...


hmm... hydrax is already a biocide due to the stuff they use, only bad of it is, it spoils the tubes and leaves some green residue in the parts (usually la)

yeah, DDC1 and DDC2 was not that reliable... but the hmax... fuwahh... damn powederful


am bringing in the DDC 3.2 as you ordered, check it out next week

hydrax is UV green.... i want UV redddd, so it looks like blood currently im testing a special UV dye, its to be sold by me la.. as its a bryan's custom product, it carry's a rm 1000 limited product liability

This post has been edited by bryanyeo87: Aug 8 2008, 03:43 AM

just a funny question about those custome top, does it affect the pump reliability ??

i was think to get pump with those petra top, transparent, looks very nice

reliability, hmm hard to say, but the pump has less stress on it coz restriction less

petra's top is pure black acetal.... its not transparent probably u meant bitspower tops or sumthing

ops i got mistaken, transparent 1 should be from Alphacool,

btw what so special with Petra's 1, it just came with barb install is all i can see

forgot where i read d, last time i saw an article about custom tops, got certain brand to affect certain pumps reliability due to its design... i think its xtremesystems forum... long time a go thread,,,

petra's top is custom made, as they are committed to performance, for example, the water pathway inside the block, has a slight spiral pattern, to help water flow more effciently,

take for example, the PC 120mm case fan, the middle of the fan has little to no air being pushed, towards the edge of the fan, the air being pushed is stronger, imagine the pump's impeller is the same, the spiral helps to guide and enhance the water flow. if i had a CNC machine, you would probably see Bryan's Tops (not topless LOL) being sold locally LoL!


anyway, the above is one of the many features that enhances flow...

however, regarding the reliability issue, i suppose the less restriction means the impeller gets less restriction, meaning less lube to the impeller or whatever, i think la..... im no expert at this, but this is the closest guess i can get to without doing the actual testings

This post has been edited by bryanyeo87: Aug 8 2008, 07:32 PM

All the sifus and taikos, i want to ask newbie question here. If i wanna create a setup which can be a 4Ghz egg boiler for my intel core, what would be the best to do for WC?

budget?

rm1000 bro, noob here, wanna spend well for wc

Dtek fuzion v2
swiftech mcr220 for silent setup, or hwlabs black ice GTS 240 for medium(70cfm >>) to high flow fan setup, or get hwlabs GTX if u cant get thermochill
tygon r3603
Laing D5
swiftech micro res,

should have balance left

This post has been edited by bryanyeo87: Aug 8 2008, 07:45 PM

nice nice, so would this guarantee me support for egg boiling?

---

Added on August 8, 2008, 7:52 pmoh btw, is it hard to setup or you would be able to setup for me, because i am really new to this wc.

This post has been edited by a1098113: Aug 8 2008, 07:52 PM

Buy pot,masak maggi mee or boil egg with it
For 1k:
MCR220
Fuzion V2
Tygon 1/2" ID
2xMid Speed Yate Loon
Micro res
DDC3.2 with top

Basically,same as mine,just with more powerful pump

thanks sifu and guru like bryan and oc4/3 for the advice. UGPM bryan

Hi guys.I am noob and still learning about WC.
I want to ask here,what is the most important parts in WC kit that play roles to cool down the cpu?

Is it the raddy? Cpu Block? Pump? Coolant?

a1098113, since u got budgetry to spent more on a power RAD, can last u a life time....

tygon is useless.. get normal tubing .. save money. there is no diff if ur just on a simple loop and know how to bend the tubes. of course if uw ant tygon also can .. if u got the budget lah. becarefull with teh yateloons. alot of fakes around.

rest of the specs are ok

block, pump and rad, all 3 affects performance

there are also yate loon fake.. hmm.

normal tubing as in how? the aeroplane brand from the hardwareshop ar?