I'll love to see that comparison too.. Those gundam model we saw in Hobby Japan Magazine..they doesnt look glossy.. but they r so nice.. I wonder if it is matte or semigloss.. hard to tell

they're flat-matt i guess. coz semi-gloss abit shiny, while gloss totally yucky type of gloss (over-shine LOL)

than i guess i bought d right one.. Yeah.. While waiting for My Hi nu gundam.. I have to start practicing n experiment with My sd freedom first..ho ho..have not been modeling for long long time

any PGs, MGs, SDs or any other grade gunplas dat anybody's currently still building now? =) , i just started building my MG Sazabi

This post has been edited by boltguard: Feb 27 2007, 11:26 PM

My MG rx 78 OYW are halfway done since 2 years ago.. Since i airbrushed it and d paint couldnt stick well n comes off easily.. So i lazy to do it anymore.. Didnt spray Mr Surfacer or top coat it tat time.

Can I put d whole kit into Soap or anything to wash away all d colours i airbrush b4?

is there a good selection of water based paints? if no then i'll go for solvent based....water base is easier to use rite?....i plan on getting a few sprays and some water based paints

wa.....MG Sazabi...darn expensive...i tot wanna buy

it really depends on what kind of panel lining and decals...

flat - will not cover any microscopic holes on the models
semigloss - read gloss and u will know that this is the medium level
gloss - will cover 99% of microscopic holes on models... thus

water slide decals... better to use gloss topcoat as you will have a smooth surface to put ur decals

wash panel lining... better use gloss topcoat as the paint will FLOW smoothly according to your line... remember to rescribe (meaning make the 'longkang' / line deeper and wider by a little bit)

for weathering... flat topcoat is the best....

to avoid 'yucky glossy' texture... spray gloss topcoat about 30 - 40 cm away from the model... one thin layer will do...

you can convert gloss to flat by spraying the flat one last... remember... gloss topcoat is useful for decals and lining but do not use excessively... thin layer will do...

oh andyxp u reli help! haha...

means, spray 30-40cm away, but only 1 layer? i scare cant cover all da parts...
or do i needa disassemble it again?

n oso, not apply finished all da decals including water decals 1st, den only apply topcoat? or apply d gloss layer, water decals, den flat/semi-gloss layer? (mahalnya~)

sorry for da troubles

This post has been edited by ShinAsakura: Feb 27 2007, 11:36 PM

yes, 30 - 40 cm away... u do all around while going up and down...

for good result is like that lo... gloss topcoat -> water decals -> flat / semi gloss topcoat

one can of topcoat can NORMALLY last for 3 - 4 models... depends on how u use it la... terbalikkan the can and spray to clear the nozzle

ok.....i'll try...lets hope i dun make my SF become yucky-glossy

just remember... thin and nice... one layer... muahaha...

but u are going to 'topcoat' on your painted gundam right?

Sazabi is d most disappointed MG kit I got. I love Sazabi REally a lot.. I mean its design..(check d 1/100 resin kit, is excellent) But when i got the MG sazabi.. d design has become not tat cool already.

Plus d worse thing about it.. is d joining.. Its hand easily comes out.. d palm cannot hold d gun properly.. When lift the hand.. it will slide down due to too Heavy.. and its legs cannot open d leg wide enough to have any pose.. Really a giant idiot .

In d end i just sold it. keeping d box n menu as collection only. hehe

here is one of my major mod...really pain in the aXX. 6 major areas is modded.

sometimes OOB also can be very nice, or just add detailing.



This post has been edited by StormV: Feb 28 2007, 12:04 AM

A few questions to ask from the vids~

1)Why are they filling up the gaps in the middle of the hollow parts?
2)After drawing the lineart with the gundam marker, how is it possible to clean up the unwanted marks? Shouldnt the ink had dried up by then?
3) After sandpapering some parts, there WILL be marks right? Any way to get rid of them other than painting over it?

let me answer your questions (although i have not seen the video)

1) now this i cant really imagine what is the hollow part without viewing the video... are u talking about seams? seams is the thin little gap that u see when u fix a two-piece combo... sanding and puttying will also help to make it seamless... gluing seam using cement (not construction ones) will also help... of course, sanding is require after gluing seams...

2) you can use an eraser to erase the excess marker's mark... just dont erase in parallel with the panel lining. there are 2 types of gundam marker for panel lining... water and oil based

3) sanding can make the surface smooth also... depends on which grade of sand paper u use. marks WILL NOT appear that obviously if you are using a high grade (thus, finer) sand paper to sand it. if you are a perfectionist, you can apply putty over the sanded area and re-sand it again... apply mr surfacer on it and u got a nice, smooth surfacer to work on....

yup...painted only on da gold parts la haha...top wanna spray da white parts, but all my line wil "gone"...
btw, wats da differ between oil-based n water-based gundam liner? n, about da head, how to line it efficiently w/out showing a thick line (i cant rub those line to make it smaller, thus making da head darn ugly) ?

I saw the vid and noticed that mr surfacer is grey in color...
what if the parts is of a different color?

<<Total nub =.=

no one answered my question.. sigh

eheheh, u must be one hell of a gunpla model expert, answering kyosuke's questions without seeing teh vidz