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 Venturing into Agriculture & Aquaculture, Co-Ordination & Implementation is KEY

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tskan
post Nov 19 2012, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(M_century @ Nov 19 2012, 08:04 PM)
For Soon Hock, I only know a way which is practically zero cost that can succeed, other ways I not too sure

For Tilapia, only advise I can provide is to get yourself a mentor, copy his/her model to get a feel of it. There are many ways that can work.
Any other questions, can ask me, I can help me a bit. I distribute Tilapia fish feed.
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Hi and thank u for yr response.
Am interested to know more about yr way with soon hock.
Also I have tilapia wh I culture to feed my aros and soon hock.
Will want to know more about yr tilapia feed. Give me range of this and prices.

M_century
post Nov 20 2012, 01:18 AM

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QUOTE(tskan @ Nov 19 2012, 09:33 PM)
Hi and thank u for yr response.
Am interested to know more about yr way with soon hock.
Also I have tilapia wh I culture to feed my aros and soon hock.
Will want to know more about yr tilapia feed. Give me range of this and prices.
*
I don't culture soon hock. Only tilapia.

From what I saw.
They place a flat altar like above water, using pond not the floating type.
Place all kinds of dead animals.
Let it rot, then the corpse worm will fall into water for the waiting soon hock. Mainly because soon hock don't swim around much. From there I didn't enquire much but I've been told its profitable.

If you plan to use tilapia feed for fingerling. Best to buy from nearest shop. Actually would save more from transport cost.

Unless you into tilapia farming, then you could consider to understand my feed.
MrFarmer
post Nov 20 2012, 05:45 AM

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QUOTE(Kg Teratai @ Nov 19 2012, 05:05 PM)
Hi Farmer,

Do you pre register for the MAHA?

I have registered and received an email ask me to go there collect the badge. However, when I went there, they tell me do not have to take the badge, you will only have to walk in. Really waste my time.
*
I did per-registered, but did not collect any badge. Last time I went, I just walk in, but need to fill up a form. Anyway, shall walk in again, as I don't have any business name card smile.gif


Added on November 20, 2012, 5:50 am
QUOTE(M_century @ Nov 19 2012, 08:04 PM)
For Soon Hock, I only know a way which is practically zero cost that can succeed, other ways I not too sure

For Tilapia, only advise I can provide is to get yourself a mentor, copy his/her model to get a feel of it. There are many ways that can work.
Any other questions, can ask me, I can help me a bit. I distribute Tilapia fish feed.
*
M_Century, agree with you on the mentor/student model, lust like in kung fu movies. Anyway, this works for all aspect of life. Be it in business, agriculture & etc. This shall take way lots of stress and trial & errors. Good luck to all of us.

This post has been edited by MrFarmer: Nov 20 2012, 05:50 AM
tskan
post Nov 20 2012, 08:03 AM

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[quote=M_century,Nov 20 2012, 01:18 AM]
I don't culture soon hock. Only tilapia.

From what I saw.
They place a flat altar like above water, using pond not the floating type.
Place all kinds of dead animals.
Let it rot, then the corpse worm will fall into water for the waiting soon hock. Mainly because soon hock don't swim around much. From there I didn't enquire much but I've been told its profitable.

If you plan to use tilapia feed for fingerling. Best to buy from nearest shop. Actually would save more from transport cost.

Unless you into tilapia farming, then you could consider to understand my feed.
*

[/quote)

Haha! Very clever. Simple solution to difficult problem. Thank u!



TSParaOpticaL
post Nov 20 2012, 05:30 PM

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guys when are you going to MAHA 2012 ???

i am thinking monday or tuesday (less people)
MrFarmer
post Nov 20 2012, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(ParaOpticaL @ Nov 20 2012, 05:30 PM)
guys when are you going to MAHA 2012 ???

i am thinking monday or tuesday (less people)
*
Me going on Friday.
Flying back Thursday morning rclxms.gif
TSParaOpticaL
post Nov 22 2012, 04:26 PM

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wow this monsoon season created a lots of problem for the farmers & collectors here in N.Sembilan....

many reported that their fruits are half ripe only due to over-raining....

some buyers bought and complained the next day of the poor quality
Michael J.
post Nov 23 2012, 09:49 AM

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Para:

Yes, the heavy rainfall has been quite damaging. How's your durian production? I hope it is still ok.... I think varieties which are prone to half-ripening problems, like D24 and its siblings, will be quite affected.

Speaking of durian, the experiment I did has come to a head. I've subjected the various open pollinated seedlings to a number of stressors, and have selected the few that showed best results. I am pleased to note that the D2 sib-pollinated seedlings performed outstandingly.

Results:
D2 - Tolerance to drought: 100% Survival (2/2); Phytophtora tolerance: 100% (2/2)
D8 - Tolerance to drought: 0% Survival (0/8); Phytophtora tolerance: NA
D28 - Tolerance to drought: 20% Survival (1/5); Phytophtora tolerance: NA
D30 - Tolerance to drought: 0% Survival (0/6); Phytophtora tolerance: NA
D88 - Tolerance to drought: 50% Survival (6/12); Phytophtora tolerance: 83% (10/12)
D103 - Tolerance to drought: 33% Survival (4/12); Phytophtora tolerance: NA
D144 - Tolerance to drought: 20% Survival (1/5); Phytophtora tolerance: NA
D187 - - Tolerance to drought: 0% Survival (0/8); Phytophtora tolerance: NA

Statistically speaking, D2 has the best drought tolerance and disease resistance amongst the tested seedlings. Nonetheless, it must be noted that only 2 seedlings were obtained (only 2 fully formed, viable seeds in one fruit), and hence there is some statistical bias. Interestingly, progeny which were supposedly derived from D2 bloodlines, such D144, suffered quite badly in the stress test. This is possibly due to selection for stronger expression of D24 genetics (i.e. better fruit yield, bigger fruits etc.). Most interestingly, seedlings with Thai bloodlines, i.e. D88 and D103 were highly drought tolerant. However, since most of the seedlings were open pollinated, the reduction in genetic purity would account for their statistically lower survival rates.

The conclusion of this simple, albeit crude experiment, indicates that pure D2 clones would serve as ideal drought and disease tolerant rootstock for grafting purposes. D2-related bloodlines (i.e. non-selfed progeny) are not ideal in most cases, whereas Thai bloodlines (eg. D88 and D103) are highly suitable rootstock materials. Given the low fruit quality of some of the Thai bloodlines (eg. D103), such varieties would be most ideal as rootstock for grafting purposes.

On a side note, I would also like to point out that I did flooding tests as well, i.e. I flooded the grow trays with standing water for a few weeks. All the seedlings did not suffer noticeable shock. I believe it has something to do with the soil composition I was using, and hence I have excluded the data from my observation.

This post has been edited by Michael J.: Nov 23 2012, 09:54 AM
Kg Teratai
post Nov 23 2012, 11:12 AM

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Hi Farmer,

I may go to MAHA this afternoon. Not confirm yet.

Hi MJ,

I would like to know
How to test the Phytophtora tolerance?
I also found the D197 is quite easy infected by Phytophtora. The young tree I planted in the farm already show syptoms.

I would also like to check with you. What is the nutrient need to supply to this tree? May be you can suggest which feterlizer to be applied.

user posted image
Michael J.
post Nov 23 2012, 01:36 PM

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Kg Teratai:

Most of the later clones are susceptible to phytophtora, including premium ones like D197. That is why rootstock is very important. Seeing that most D197 are grafted plants, it could be a problem with the rootstock itself (as I understand it, many nurseries use D24 as rootstock, which is itself quite prone to the effects of phytophtora infection).

A crude method of testing is to use soil from heavily affected areas to try germinating seeds. Those that die are susceptible, whereas those that survive are more tolerant. I do one additional step "shock" treatment step by reducing the soil moisture content (i.e. stressing the plant), and then suddenly increasing the water table to saturation (which favor phytophtora proliferation). If then plant is easily stressed by drought, the subsequent proliferation of phytophtora would more than likely cause infection and death. Thus, in this two stage process, it would be possible to "screen" tolerant plants.

A more accurate way is to grow tissue samples of the selected plants in petri dishes (i.e. tissue culture), and then infect them with a solution of phytophtora enriched spores/mycelium, and incubate them. If the plant has the immunological provenance to stave off infection, it would show in survival rate. An additional step mycologist would take is to stain the samples with a dye to detect particular stress hormones, which would further indicate which plants are suffering from an infection.

As I know, phytophtora is a very troublesome disease in durian orchards.... there's very little cure. The best offence is actually a strong defense. You could try trichoderma enriched organic fertilizers, it may help. But since the disease is already manifesting itself, I'm afraid there is no real cure. If it is a small tree, you could try applying metalaxyl into the soil; however this would give only short term solutions, and may damage the soil in the long run.

Just a few questions though: How is the humidity and water drainage of your orchard? Is the soil porous, or clayish? Phytophtora are very agressive in areas with high humidity, compact, clayish soils, with excessive ground litter/plant biomass. If you want to know how to remedy a durian orchard, you can speak with Para; he's done a great job reviving a low production durian orchard.


On a separate note, the following are a little presentation about the impacts of biotechnology:

Growth from Fungi

The Future of Drug Discovery

Green Packaging

This post has been edited by Michael J.: Nov 23 2012, 02:08 PM
TSParaOpticaL
post Nov 23 2012, 07:13 PM

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My durian production is no problem....probably due to me changing to the organic way for farming. but most of the farmers here are close to "dying" because of the free fall in price.

but from the information that i gathered, actually 90% of the clones are facing this problem and the durian collectors are choking because of this and also that caused the free fall of price.

i am discussing with my sifu in order to deviate from this old practice and prevent from producing when everyone is producing.

did you know that Musang King in Raub is at RM 3.50/kg


QUOTE(Michael J. @ Nov 23 2012, 09:49 AM)
Para:

Yes, the heavy rainfall has been quite damaging. How's your durian production? I hope it is still ok.... I think varieties which are prone to half-ripening problems, like D24 and its siblings, will be quite affected.

*
Well if you are hit by phyptopthora, you need to take immediate & strong action at times to solve it. there is no 2 ways about it BUT after its cured its best to start prevention for the future.

I would say how to remedy but i strongly recommend 2 things :-

1) Use Organic Fertiliser

2) NEVER spray herbicide to kill the grass & weed. I would suggest grass cutting frequently so that cow grass will grow over the weeds.


QUOTE(Michael J. @ Nov 23 2012, 01:36 PM)
Kg Teratai:

As I know, phytophtora is a very troublesome disease in durian orchards.... there's very little cure. The best offence is actually a strong defense. You could try trichoderma enriched organic fertilizers, it may help. But since the disease is already manifesting itself, I'm afraid there is no real cure. If it is a small tree, you could try applying metalaxyl into the soil; however this would give only short term solutions, and may damage the soil in the long run.

Just a few questions though: How is the humidity and water drainage of your orchard? Is the soil porous, or clayish? Phytophtora are very agressive in areas with high humidity, compact, clayish soils, with excessive ground litter/plant biomass. If you want to know how to remedy a durian orchard, you can speak with Para; he's done a great job reviving a low production durian orchard.
On a separate note, the following are a little presentation about the impacts of biotechnology:


*
This post has been edited by ParaOpticaL: Nov 23 2012, 07:25 PM
MrFarmer
post Nov 23 2012, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(Kg Teratai @ Nov 23 2012, 11:12 AM)
Hi Farmer,

I may go to MAHA this afternoon. Not confirm yet.


*
It was a bit of a disappointment. I went early morning, 10 am. Then it was raining. I only manage Hall A, B & C. This time I find that it is geared more towards the public. There were also lots of non-related exhibitors.


Added on November 23, 2012, 10:00 pm
QUOTE(ParaOpticaL @ Nov 23 2012, 07:13 PM)
[color=blue]My durian production is no problem....probably due to me changing to the organic way for farming. but most of the farmers here are close to "dying" because of the free fall in price.

but from the information that i gathered, actually 90% of the clones are facing this problem and the durian collectors are choking because of this and also that caused the free fall of price.
Bought Raub Musang King @ MAHA 2012 (XL) for $9.00 / kg. Now so full whistling.gif

This post has been edited by MrFarmer: Nov 23 2012, 10:00 PM
TSParaOpticaL
post Nov 24 2012, 03:32 PM

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wow bro that's expensive.....now the exhibitors also smart....

QUOTE(MrFarmer @ Nov 23 2012, 09:58 PM)



Added on November 23, 2012, 10:00 pm
Bought Raub Musang King @ MAHA 2012 (XL) for $9.00 / kg. Now so full whistling.gif
*
harvestopia
post Nov 25 2012, 02:45 AM

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How was MAHA 2012? Better than last year? Any new stuff?
MrFarmer
post Nov 25 2012, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(harvestopia @ Nov 25 2012, 02:45 AM)
How was MAHA 2012? Better than last year? Any new stuff?
*
I personally feel the previous event was better. This time it's gear more towards the public (retail) than commercial farming. I did not finish all the exhibit as it was raining. I only did Hall A, B & C, and the 2 agro bazaar.

Any feed back on the outside halls? If it good, then I shall make another trip.
TSParaOpticaL
post Nov 25 2012, 10:59 AM

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a friend of mine was good enough to give me a exhibitor pass so i will let you know tomorrow if the other halls are good

am going there for the below :-

1) durian
2) papaya
3) chilli fertigation
4) irrigation pipes


QUOTE(MrFarmer @ Nov 25 2012, 09:55 AM)
I personally feel the previous event was better. This time it's gear more towards the public (retail) than commercial farming. I did not finish all the exhibit as it was raining. I only did Hall A, B & C, and the 2 agro bazaar.

Any feed back on the outside halls? If it good, then I shall make another trip.
*
MrFarmer
post Nov 29 2012, 07:08 PM

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Found an article on Papaya to share.


Growing Papaya From Seed

I love growing papaya. They are easy to grow (once you know how to!), they are quick to fruit and they fruit all year round. I can use them both ripe or green, I can feed them to my chickens, and they attract lots of wild birds into my garden.

Papayas are fast growing shade trees, and they look really good, too.


Growing Papaya

Growing papaya from seed is the easiest and most successful way to get started. And of course it's also the cheapest. You can grow papayas using seed from shop bought papayas.

However, the papaya can be a finicky plant... Papayas are easy to grow, but not necessarily so easy to keep alive and get good fruit from. Below I tell you how you can easily grow papaya from seed, and how you can ensure a good supply of fruit all year round.


Growing Papaya

Papaya originated in the lowland tropics of South America, but today you find papayas growing everywhere in the tropics and subtropics. It often grows wild, and every tropical food garden has several papaya trees. To grow good papayas you need a frost free climate, lots of sunlight, lots of water and very good soil.

If you can supply all of the above you can pretty much stick some papaya seeds in the ground at any time of the year, and six to ten months later they will start fruiting.

OK, admittedly this sounds easier than it is for most beginner gardeners. There are some hurdles and traps to watch out for when growing papayas. But if you are aware of the possible problems then there is no reason why your first attempt at growing papayas shouldn't be a smashing success. Let's look at the details...


What Do Papayas Look Like?

Here are some pictures of papayas, for those who have never seen papaya plants.
Crown Of A Papaya Young Papaya Plant. Mature Papaya Tree.



Papayas are fast growing, single stem plants. The trunk is soft and does not have a bark, and papayas don't have branches.

The leaves are huge and don't last long. Usually you have a tall trunk with a crown of leaves at the top of it. The overall appearance is a bit like a palm tree. If a papaya loses the growing tip or is cut back it can develop multiple trunks. The fruit grows on the trunk, and since papayas continue to grow up and up the fruit is harder and harder to get to as the papaya plant gets older...




How To Grow Papaya From Seed
Growing Papaya Seeds

You can use any shop bought papaya for seeds, but you get the best results if you use seeds from locally grown papaya fruit.

Just cut the papaya in half, scrape out the seeds, and clean and dry them. (Actually, I never bother cleaning them...) You will end up with enough seeds to grow a papaya plantation... Select a sunny and sheltered place in your garden. That's right, in your garden. Don't start them in pots! Papayas don't transplant well. Anything that disturbs the roots of papayas really sets them back. They just hate it. The most fool proof way to grow papayas is to simply plant them where they are to live.

Papaya trees are very, very hungry. That means they need very good soil, rich in organic matter and nutrients. If you don't have fabulous soil, make some. Dig a hole half a meter across and fill it with a mix of good compost and soil. Actually, make at least two or three such planting beds in different locations.

Now sprinkle on some of your seeds. A couple of dozen per bed is a good amount. I usually use even more... Cover the seeds lightly with more compost, and then mulch the patch well. The seeds usually take about a couple of weeks to germinate, and may take longer.

Soon you will notice that your seedlings are very different in size and vigor. That's why we planted so many. Start culling the weaker ones. Pull them out while still small, or cut bigger ones down to the ground. Only keep the very best.

At this stage you should keep about half a dozen plants. Papaya plants can be male, female, or bisexual, and you want to make sure that you have some females or bisexual plants amongst your seedlings. The male papayas don't bear fruit.
Male Papaya Flowers Female Papaya Plant

Papayas start flowering when they are about three feet tall. The males flower first. Male flowers have long, thin stalks with several small blooms. Female flowers are usually single blooms, bigger, and very close to the trunk. See the papaya pictures above. Cull most of the male plants. You only need one male for every ten to fifteen female plants to ensure good pollination.

And that's it. You should end up with one very strong and healthy female plant per bed. (And a male plant somewhere...) If the weather is warm enough, and if you are growing your papayas in full sun and in good soil, then you could be picking the first ripe fruit within 10 months.


How much water?

Papayas have large soft leaves. They evaporate a lot of water in warm weather, so they need a lot of water. But unfortunately papayas are very susceptible to root rot, especially in cool weather. Over-watering is the most common reason for problems when growing papayas. It depends on the temperature and on the overall health and vigor of the plant. A healthier plant will cope better, but in general you should be careful not to over-water during periods of cool weather.
How much plant food?

As much as you can spare. Papayas need a lot of fertilizing. They are particularly greedy for nitrogen. Fertilize them regularly. You can use a complete fertilizer, or something like chicken manure. Papayas handle strong or fresh manures fairly well. You should also be generous with compost, and just keep piling on the mulch as the plants grow bigger.
How much sun?

As much as possible. It's OK if the leaves wilt a little bit in hot weather. Papayas love heat and sunlight. You can get them to grow in partial shade, but you just end up with a spindly, sickly tree, and if you ever get any fruit it will be several feet up in the air and will taste insipid.


When do papayas fruit and how much?

Papayas fruit all year round, as long as the weather is warm enough. Keep them happy and they will keep fruiting. (If the temperatures drop too much they stop flowering. They will flower again as it warms up.) Young papayas are the most productive. The older a papaya plant gets, the weaker it becomes. It will produce less and smaller fruit, and it may get problems with diseases. Also, because the plants keep growing taller it gets harder to reach the fruit.

I think it's best to just keep planting more. Put in another patch every few months. That way you always have some healthy and productive plants around, and you don't need a ladder to pick the fruit.


How long do papayas live?

That can vary greatly, but most papaya plants are short lived. As they get older they get more susceptible to all kinds of diseases. Most of mine die some time in their second or third year. We get big storms here and usually my papayas just blow over once they get too tall. But I also have some trees that seem indestructible. Rather than blowing over they snap off, and grow multiple new trunks. I once saw a photo of a forty year old papaya!


Common Problems When Growing Papayas

I already addressed the most common problem: root rot due to over-watering. If you get cool weather keep you papaya plants dry. If you live in an area that gets torrential tropical rains, like I do, then there is not much you can do about it. Every wet season I lose many of my mature papaya plants. It's not a problem for me, since I regularly start new plants. The young ones survive OK, and I always have some papayas fruiting somewhere.

Strong winds are another common cause of papaya disaster. Papaya plants have a very shallow root system, they get very top heavy as they grow older, and they blow over easily. Again, the solution is to replant in time. Then there are birds, fruit bats, possums... Everybody loves papayas. The only solution here is to pick the fruit as soon as it starts to change color. It will ripen OK on the kitchen bench.

I don't mind sharing my papaya crop anyway. I pick what I can reach and I don't worry about the fruit that's higher up. The birds can have the rest until the plant falls over and dies. That is unless I get an exceptionally productive or nice flavoured papaya. I'm too lazy to climb ladders to pick papayas, so if a tree gets too tall I just cut it down, about two feet of the ground. Sometimes it kills them, but sometimes they grow back with several trunks. I get more fruit and it grows where I can reach it.

The best time to cut a papaya back is during dry weather. The trunk is hollow. If it fills with water it will rot. You can protect it by covering it with an upside down plastic pot or or a bag. Hot, humid weather can encourage rot.

Papayas get a whole slew of viruses and diseases, transmitted by sucking insects. Those problems are greatest during times when the plants are stressed already, for example because they have wet feet. I don't think it's worth worrying about diseases, or trying to treat them. Just plant more.

Young, vigorous papayas are least affected by insects or diseases. Just keep planting lots of them, and always keep just the best. The planting method outlined above, and regular replanting, are the best way to ensure a regular supply of papaya. Save your own seeds from your healthiest and tastiest plants, and over time you will breed the perfect papaya for your garden.




rockygai
post Nov 30 2012, 04:40 PM

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Hi all, I'm interested in Aquaculture ... rear fish and make some profit.... any Sifu can give me some guideline for a new enroll ?

Kg Teratai
post Dec 3 2012, 09:08 PM

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How is everyone hunting in maha? I did not manage to visit those hall. Only visit laman outside and one of the Argo bazaar. sad.gif . There are black thorn durian tree selling at bazaar for rm55 per tree. It is too expensive. Therefore. I did not buy it also. Bought some fruit from fama counter. Good quality.

Last week manage to try m78 durian. Found that it is not able to compete with d197. This session the d13 ripe very well. Taste good as well.

This post has been edited by Kg Teratai: Dec 3 2012, 09:10 PM
MrFarmer
post Dec 7 2012, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(Kg Teratai @ Dec 3 2012, 09:08 PM)
How is everyone hunting in maha? I did not manage to visit those hall. Only visit laman outside and one of the Argo bazaar. sad.gif . There are black thorn durian tree selling at bazaar for rm55 per tree. It is too expensive. Therefore. I did not buy it also. Bought some fruit from fama counter. Good quality.

Last week manage to try m78 durian. Found that it is not able to compete with d197. This session the d13 ripe very well. Taste good as well.
*
The Mardi booth was great. Bought a book Serangga Perosak Buah-buahan Tropika Malaysia. It has lots of picture, showing symptoms, pest identification as well as recommended treatment. Unfortunately they only have BM edition. Bought for $70.00.

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