Osren got new liquid wax. Not the radiant block though. More shine!

my radiant block still got 3/4 of a bottle. thats why need to make it to liquid spray wax and finish it faster

I make sure I clean my microfiber with detergent after each use and inspect it often. Just make sure they are clean and soft. I don't wax and buff anymore, but for hard coating I use a special microfiber that's even finer, I think that's applicable for buffing too. For compound and wax I find sponge pads to be better for application.

Need more help from you guys. to clarify the steps below.. will try to work on my car tomorrow..

1) clay - with soapy water
2) compound & polish - work while wet, means you pour some of the liquid onto the pad, rub a specific surface until you don't see the liquid anymore right?
3) then move to the next area/surface. there is no need to buff it off right?
4) after compound is there any washing needed? or can straight away proceed to polish?
5) MG Soft Foam Applicator Pad is suitable for all 3 steps? (compound, polish, wax)

sorry for the long winded questions, just need to make sure i get it right before i start.. thanks

This post has been edited by JML: Sep 24 2016, 11:20 PM

Hi Guys, not sure if this is the right place to ask.
This type of roof liner material, what it is called? Is it Fabric type? (Maybe got the wrong keyword so didn't much search results)



To me this type is very delicate and need to handle with extra care can't just wipe to clean it.
Any approach to clean the spot on the left side?

Maybe can't really tell from the picture. I just did the top tinting strip (shade band) on the front windscreen, that 'stain' is not there earlier so it must be the water/chemical thingy that they spray kena the roof.
When I run my finger on it it feel rough and 'hardened', like kena super glue

I'm kind of an OCD person so it bothers me

Thanks

Hi..every day i can noticed a lot of dust sit at my HU,dashboard and sterring.. I wipe with MF towel then it come again and againn

Any product or trick to avoid this? Or reduce ?

This post has been edited by syedkamal92: Sep 25 2016, 03:09 AM

On compound and polish, you start with a dry surface. Work your polish or compound with a sponge pad (give it a bit of elbow grease), but not until dry! Just give it a 15 second rub, then buff off and INSPECT. If the oxidation or scratch is still visible, repeat, if ok move to the next section. Allowing it to dry will be a pain to remove! Always buff off immediately.

Polish after compound is optional if your compound left some hazing (esp on dark cars, else I skip)

No need to wash if you're using wax or oil based sealants. Need to wash and/or alcohol wipe if you are planning to coat with hard coating.

I don't know that pad but should be ok, just don't use the same pad without cleaning it first.

Hope it helps

thanks bro. managed to get the answers from youtube last night..

this morning i started off by cleaning my car at 10am. finish that in about 45 mins.
claying really took a while. the 3M clay bar that i use could not remove the tiny black tar marks on my white car. i had to use finger nail to really remove them.
i use about 3/5 clar bar. they kept dropping to the floor when i work on the bottom side!
claying took about 1.5 to 2 hours

compound - i use foam pad, 3 pcs, and run out of foam pad. 3pcs was not enough to compound the whole car? i managed to finish about 2/3 of the car.
no choise, had to clean the foam pad and let them dry while i take a break. my arms were really tired already.
by compound, managed to get rid of the stubborn black stain on the bonnet..
compound also took about 1.5 to 2 hours

it was close to 5 pm already. i had to skip polish if not i won't finish in time.

finish waxing around 6.30pm using MG ultimate paste wax. it comes with black foam pad. i think i apply too much wax. 9pm and it is not fully cured yet. should i wait til tomorrow morning only buff off the wax?

no photo as i was really tired lol. i think i might get the DA tools for corded hand drill for the next car..

Sorry to hear you didn't have too much fun. But you're quite an enthusiastic one, compounding a whole car by hand! Machines would help a lot in this sense. You should see quite a bit of improvement after your hard work I hope!

I've heard enough about ultimate wax not to use it. It's a pain to remove if you used too much or let it sit too long/too short, I don't know. Hence I've ditched waxing altogether, too much work. Spray waxes are the way to go for me. Sensha Fine Crystal and gyeon wet coat are two great examples. I've finally given both a shot and they've got their plus and minuses, but for cost fine crystal is substantially cheaper. The nice thing is they apply so easily and quickly I do it often and that keeps my ride protected. The downside? Now I don't know what to do with my old Meg waxes.

Ouch, did I just read that you compounded the whole car by hand? 10 for effort but say bye bye to your arms
If you're planning to compound the whole car, we recommend a proper DA Polisher. It covers a wider surface area!
The Meguiars DA Power Tool only covers a very small surface which would also take time for the whole car.

Still, the DA Power Tool is a great tool to get you started. My suggestion? try panel by panel first!
Work on the panel which needed most attention (they're typically bonnet/trunk due to hairline scratches or stone chips).
Then on days you plan on washing, work on the next panel.

If you really want to do everything in one go, use the DA Polisher (Rupes or equivalent 21mm throw DA polishers).

I remember starting waxing for the first time too. Applied too much and still had residue on the car.
A trick the kind sirs from this forum advised is when you squeeze the sponge and notice the wax oozing out, you've applied too much!

Anyhow, the idea is practice practice practice You'll be flying through your car in no time.
Nothing beats the satisfaction when its done right

Edit:-
Check out Meguiars QuikTips subforum! Great place to look out for tips and tricks!

This post has been edited by linkin182: Sep 26 2016, 07:35 AM

Your first claying will take time.. subsequent should be fast if you maintain it regularly as its just by need. Just don't wait for too much gunk to embed.. else its the same effort again.
You can try using a small piece of microfiber cloth to aid your grip if it keeps dropping

You don't have to let the foam pad dry. Just wring the water out after rinse and you can just continue with the cleaned damp pad.

If the task takes too long, what i would do is to split it over 2 or 3 weekends, ie. 1 weekend do the horizontal panels, the next week vertical, then undercarriage related.. or however else works for you.
On the bright side.. you're getting a good workout..

Nothing beats a proper DA though as other mentioned. I don't own one so can't comment.

It should dry within 10mins in our hot malaysia weather. Do a swipe test with your finger. Normally i apply the whole car with wax.. by then the first panel is ready for buffing.
Don't wait overnight unless you have a closed garage. Dust will settle and you'll be grinding that into the paint when you wipe off.

Apply only a very thin layer for the UPW.. follow the instructions on the package . You can barely see the wax when applied. More is not better.. just wasting product and hard to buff off.

You can look for steam cleaning service. Most likely can clean the dirty gunk.

cheap way to clean it = steam iron + non acidic cleaner with a soft brush. wipe dry as much as possible.
expensive way = rent a karcher puzzi

alternatively can try "tough stuff foam cleaner". sold in major super/hypermarkets

Thank Guys Steam cleaning macam very magical haha, wonder if any cheaper one on Lazada, can use to clean sum other stuff also

lol.. nobody commented that compound shouldn't be done by hand.. and i thought i just start detailing, not sure if i will continue, so first try it out by hand first.. who would have known... my arms alright tho.. still feeling sore after 2 days, great workout indeed lol

after compound, i felt the white car is more white now. and i buff off the wax monday morning, it pretty much cured and i can feel a layer of wax that's smooth. will wait til this weekend to wash & see. will apply spray wax also.
i'll leave the polishing to another time when the wax wear out i guess..
and noted taken, next time i'll just apply a thin layer of wax

by the way, how many times can a car paint sustain compound before the paint wears out? i assume by compound you actually remove a thin layer of the undercoat or the paint?

great, will read up more as you suggest, thanks

i'd assume once we've done claying & compound, with proper wax protection you shouldn't need to clay & compound so soon?

using MF cloth to hold the clay, why didn't i think of that? lol
good tips, will keep that in mind

will keep that in mind

i need a recommendation for a cheap & reliable DA polisher

BLACK & DECKER Waxer/Polisher -- is this any good for beginner?

@ kitleon81 - you mention you use a black & decker, is it this one that you're using?

Thats because the white car looks clean! It is true, whites do not show much shine compared to darker colours.
I envy my wifes black car over my white one with the same amount of effort put in

This might help:-
http://www.surfcitygarageforums.com/index....coat-thickness/
It would take a while before it reaches the paint. It has to go through the clear coat first.

Had a nice 2hours wheel job and the outcome is satisfactory.



Yup white can't shine like dark colour, but it give a nice flawless finish if well prepare. At certain angle, it give the mirror like finish. If you look directly at 90° it would not yield the same reflection like dark colour car. But the wetlook is there.

Yup, compound is only done like once a year or so.. depending on need.
Claying is more often.. say once in couple of months depending on paint condition.. if its rough to touch its time to clay.
Regularly washing and maintaining the surface with wax will keep the frequency down.
I've recently started using spray wax as a drying aid after wash. Makes it easier to dry, less probability to scratch the paint due to lubrication and some form of protection.. all at one go. Downside is you use more product this way. Used to dry car, then only apply spray wax... takes much longer.


Thanks for sharing.. good read

Guys need help

I have skill polisher

What is the purpose for wool type pad?

Sponge?

I have no problem using sponge pad for body but it scratches my windscreen.

Also i need to polish my headlamp.

Any tips?