No, what I mean is it needs that voltage to reach 390X speeds. I can overclock the card without voltage increase, around 1070 for core and 1400 memory. Havent tested much because I only do benching. When gaming I underclock and undervolt.

wow.. your hawaii is epic in oc.. going wc soon ?

Correct me if im wrong. Was talking with friend and below topic comes out.

His power supply 850 watts.

He said choose nvdia will saves power.

But no matter you choose which card, your power input/consumption is 850 watts.

Am i right ?

The problem is not all black screens are fixable with voltage. Some people unable to fix the black screen with voltage but increasing power limit did fixed the black screen for them. Some cards not fixable at all & RMA is the only choice. There's no one solution worked for all. Also not to forget there's many cards don't have black screen problem at all. The 390/390X black screen a bit different, more towards to buggy BIOS.

I meant overclock with overvoltage of course. So yours basically can't overclock when overvoltage? Or at least not stable. Yeah, this is not strange though because I read a couple of guys having black screen issue when overclocking past certain voltage.

Nah, the PSU only supply the amount of power needed by your computer hardware. The "850W" is the maximum rated power the PSU can supply, not the amount of power the PSU will supply all the time. Basically, for example if the components in your computer only need 400W, then the PSU will supply 400W.

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 30 2015, 12:40 PM

Incorrect - the PSU will only supplies the required power. In fact, lower power consumption often leads to better longevity due to less load on the PSU.

hello, here he explain he FOUND issues.. is driver, if previously you have R9 200 series and install R9 300 series conflict will crash Gpu/black screen... DDU safe the day..

It can overclock when overvoltage its just sometimes it needs more, sometime less, at the same clock. Perhaps its because the temperature of the card, or my PSU is lacking.

One of my friend said (Electronic background)

How to explain this bill (bill price is dummy data) :

850W PS --> Use 250W ---> Bill is RM 400

500W PS --> use 250W ---> Bill is RM 250

Note : Please ignore other household appliance. We are doing comparison.

It's like this, if both have the same efficiency of 90% then:

850W PS ---> Use 250W ---> 250W divide by 0.9 = 278W from the wall plug @ 12.5 cents per hour (assuming 45 cents per kWh)
500W PS ---> Use 250W ---> 250W divide by 0.9 = 278W from the wall plug @ 12.5 cents per hour (assuming 45 cents per kWh)

It's the same

The advantage of 850W PS is it can output more wattage than 500W unit.
How efficient is the power supply depends on how the power supply was built and what rating is has. 80+ Platinum, Gold etc and how it handles on varying temperature. You also have to take into account how efficient the power supply is when handling low power draws.
For example, The 80 Plus Gold standard requires 90% efficiency at 50% of rated load, and 87% efficiency at both 20% load and full rated load. So that means that if the 850W power supply is gold rated standard, it can deliver 87% efficiency from 170W onwards.

This post has been edited by terradrive: Jun 30 2015, 01:41 PM

You need to know the amount of watts pulling from the wall. From the data above, I can conclude that the first bill higher because the amount of watts pull from the wall is higher than the second bill. During conversion (Power supplies convert one voltage to another), some energy will be wasted as heat. It's about efficiency. Efficiency describes just how much energy is lost as heat. Higher efficiency means less waste. The 850W PSU in the above example have pretty bad efficiency.

But haven't answer me if the consumption is same, why difference in bill ?

The 250W is the amount of watts output by the PSU. You forgot the amount of watts pulled from the wall to generate that 250W for the computer components. Power utility company bill you based on the amount of watts pulled from the wall.

For example, let say the 500W PSU have 80% efficiency rating & the 850W PSU have 60% efficiency rating. Which mean:-

850W PSU (watts pulling from the wall) = 250W / 60% = ~417W

500W PSU (watts pulling from the wall) = 250W / 80% = ~312.5W

Above example explained why the bill with 850W PSU is higher than the 500W PSU.

The best freesync monitor that you can buy now. RM2699 at compuzone. But not the best gaming monitor yet, as the VRR window is 35-90hz.
Another interesting(downside) aspect of freesync monitor (maybe for only this monitor), when you enable the freesync mode in OSD, it stuck with that mode. A gaming scenario is when you in freesync in a game, suddenly you have more than 90fps to push to the monitor, you'll get the classic tearing. Of course you can cap the fps at CCC.

The question is how will you get to choose for the monitor to refresh at 144hz (disable freesync) when you in game? Because AMD said the VRR is negotiated before hand. The freesync enabled/disable switch in OSD, windows will detect as new device/monitor. Not sure you can toggle this mode while you gaming.



This post has been edited by ruffstuff: Jun 30 2015, 03:00 PM

Like I said, the 850W PSU in your example have pretty bad efficiency. If both 500W & 850W PSU have same rated efficiency, e.g. 80+ GOLD 500W & 850W PSU, the amount of bill you need to pay when using 850W PSU is no higher than the bill with 500W PSU, provided that the computer power consumption (drawn from the PSU) is the same.

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 30 2015, 03:06 PM

I've already explained.

It all depends on the efficiency rating of the power supply...

proved he ain't no bias with AMD. same goes to MW Technology. alot people doin benchmark as i look for overall results based from all reviewers.

obviously, Nicolas11x12TECHX is the real bias on AMD side.

nah his not bias, just need to do research on uninstall current driver before installing new Gpu/driver

1. One can't DDU when can't even reach BIOS.

2. I've personally tried, even the drivers from the CD didn't work. Apa lagi mau?