ok man thx.

today they msg me another model sharp AHX9VED2, any review?

Should be ok, I am using Sharp AHXP10WMD since last year; replaced a 10 year old Mitsubishi Electric 1.0hp which was literally falling apart.

Not sure if the watts rating on Sharp website is accurate or not though, AHXP10WMD is rated 710W vs AHX9VED2 at 890W.

Sharp max BTU is 10000 btu/hr; nominal 9000 btu/hr for 1hp

This post has been edited by dayalan86: Jun 11 2021, 03:17 PM

ok man thanks again. Goona make decision, later out of stock.. LOL

BBB, past post mentioned before.

hi @ceo684,
Do you recommend cassette type of air con or 2 separate unit of air con?

This is for my living hall + dining hall together..

What is the ceiling height ?

hi.. sorry I do not have the ceiling measurement.. but I consider the ceiling to be higher than normal double storey houses..

For larger room size, the cassette give more even cooling than the usual wall mounted split AC.
Ceiling height higher than normal is good for cassette. If its too low there may be cold-spots (more apparent with 4-way blower).

just thinking if I use cassette, and I only need air con for living hall but air flow also flows towards dining area.. wouldn't it a bit wasted?

Due to Brownian movement effect "gerakan Brown" of particles, the cold air will dissipate throughout the whole container (the room)..and mix with the warm air, regardless of AC type. Or in layman term.. the cold air still leak all over to the other half.

Sitting in one half of the space sized for a 2hp, whereby the aircon cooling capacity total is 2 units x 1hp, does not automatically mean a single 1hp will cool that half-only (of a 2hp-sized room).
It will still run, but you'll feel it only cools down slowly with 1 aircon only, as it is rather undersized for the whole container.. unless you subdivide the container (like a bento box) i.e. dining/living area with a shower curtain etc.. then it makes the effective container space smaller

Guys, can i request air technician to fill up aircon gas w/o servicing i.e chemical cleaning, etc? If so, how much it cost to fill up r32 gas for a 1.0 inverter mount unit?

This post has been edited by Jo@NJS: Jun 14 2021, 05:23 PM

Firsly, how do you know you need to top up gas ? Not blowing cold air ? It could be other reason like a dirty ODU which you couldnt see.

If really is out of gas, then the techician should check the source of the leak. The AC gas circulation system works similarly like our blood circulation. If there is no cut, blood will not flow out. Refilling gas is waste of money if there is a leak.

When was the last you did a proper servicing, IDU and ODU ? If you have not been doing self cleaning the air filter plus a heavy user, is time to call for service. Dont mention anything about gas. Just say service. If need to refill gas he will inform you.

You may be surprised it may not required a gas refill.

This post has been edited by mini orchard: Jun 14 2021, 08:04 PM

One of my AC decided to show a 'sickness' today despite knowing is mco and no technician available.....lol.

Removed the casing and checked the sensor ..... settled. Had a spare sensor on standby.

Hi guys, while doing research for my first house, I am really confused by many of the terms stated on each brand's specs. *sorry I am a total newbie*
How do I get a concrete answer that one aircon is more efficient than the other? do I compare the EER for Cooling W/W (Higher the better?)


Panasonic X-Deluxe


Hisense R32 - KAGS


Sharp AHXP24YMD


Mitsubushi GR Series




Thanks in advance



This post has been edited by jeffboon97: Jun 14 2021, 11:11 PM

btu/h or usually referred to as btu here .. can be said as alternate unit for cooling power (how much heat this AC can take away in one hour).. so generally within the same class ("1hp") this is how we determine which are the better cooling ones.
For cars.. you can have those legendary engine B16 VTEC 170hp.. B16 vtec 160hp.. standard 1.6 old sentra 140hp.. or some lawnmower engine 90hp. but all are sold as 1.6L
Higher btu/h means the aircon can throw more heat away in one hr/ higher is better so it can achieve target temp faster. You're already imagining the 1.6L lawnmower engine to be slower than the rest

EER is a measure of efficiency (under theoretical calculation/best case).. which is pretty much dependent on overall technical design and components. Higher is better, because its like how much heat can be thrown away after spending a known amount of TNB power units. Something like km/L for cars (as advertised) as this is translating the cooling power btu into W and dividing this by the electricity consumed by the unit. For some inverters, you can see that the EER changes for low load and high load scenario.

not to scale but just to make the point, some models/capacity is jack of all trades, others are great for high load but not so for low load.. this was an approximation for
CS-XPU10WKH-1 EER 13.26 (13.64-11.26) vs CS-XPU13WKH-1 12.63 (12.65-12.07)



Generally
EER <10 makan minyak
11 pass
12 A
13 A++

Since EER only provide best case scenario (drive KL-JB 80kmh behind a trailer for 5 hours) to get best fuel consumption.. or limited data points as most data available is just nominal BTU, at min BTU and at max BTU 3 data points only.. what about those in betweens? (because we only have these 3 data points, that's why the graph also assume it is straight line)
CSPF is something like mixed mode driving (aircon is tested through standardised set of tests) which test the aircon efficiency over more accurate test conditions, from this CSPF it is just like national exam band grading.. e.g between 0-50 fail..51-60 E...and so on and so forth, to get the ST-stars. Everyone sit for the same STPM paper.

So the best A students here is your 5-star ST aircon, B grade one will be 4-star..etc. Exact CSPF band ranges this one you need to dig out the ST MEPS appliance standards or the MS standard per that red ST sticker. The MEPS rules say you cannot sell a super crappy E-grade 1-star appliance so they only allow you to sell if the product is at minimum 2-star ST.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jun 14 2021, 11:54 PM

Well after doing some research comparing Senheng, Harvey Norman, Onking, ESH, and Shopee (Not a fan of Lazada)

I've come across the rough pricing for the entry level of inverter aircon for 3 brands below:
Panasonic X-Deluxe 1.5hp - RM 1.7k (Shopee)
Panasonic X-Deluxe 2.5hp - RM 3.0k (Shopee)
Mitsubishi JS 1.5hp - RM1.8k (Onking)
Mitsubishi JS 2.5hp - RM3.0k (Shopee)
Daikin FTKF 1.5hp - RM 1.7k (Shopee)
Daikin FTKF 2.5hp - RM 2.9k (Shopee)

For anyone who is interested. Price not including installation la of course.

This post has been edited by jeffboon97: Jun 15 2021, 04:08 PM

Shipping ?

KV

Hi guys, so sorry if this is asked previously.

Would like to get a solid answer to my questions below:

Details:
- 2 Pax
- North Facing
- Well Shaded

1. Living Room + Dining + Kitchen (530 sqft) - Should I get a 2.0 or get a 2.5 HP just to be safe?
2. Principal Bedroom (230 sqft) - Should I get a 1.0 or get a 1.5 HP just to be safe?
3. Best rule of thumbs is to multiply per sqft by 25 BTU?

This post has been edited by jeffboon97: Jun 18 2021, 05:45 PM