How bout the power steering oil???

to add in, while the specification of SAE for transmission fluid and engine oil is different, the actual viscosity can be the same.
so to say transmission/gear oil is thicker than engine oil is incorrect.

example:
SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W30
SAE Viscosity Grade (Gear Oil) 75W80

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=50204

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=142&pcid=21

with this, the engine oil is actually thicker than the gear oil!

additionally, detergent is not so much to prevent acidity of the lubricant, more so to be able to clean/neutralize carbon/combustion blow by and keep it in suspension within the oil
there are of course other additives (working along side with detergent) to prevent the oxidization/varnish/acidity of the oil.

As a matter of fact, depending on your driving conditions, transmission can actually be much hotter than your engine oil (remember what i have experienced in my gear oil?) as your engine oil has radiator/coolant to help maintain temperatures, while the gear oil's only way to cool itself is the transmission case which is thick galvanised steel or something (IINM anyways) and those aren't exactly the best materials for heat conductivity

the main reason gear oil cannot be use in an engine is due to the lack of detergent/dispersant additives, while for engine generally it is as you said, as that is made way for detergent/dispersant additives in favor over friction modifiers.

interesting as to how i am answering similar things on both threads
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72920484

can consider looking up reports explanation such as this:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php


delsoo
please consider reading the first page of this thread as well as this thread:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3310512

a lot of your questions have been widely available around these forums on various threads (or even google)

people who knows me enough will get there eventually

I'm also facing the same problem currently. I had my wife drive the car while I sat at the rear passenger seat (LH). She drove on uneven roads and I opened the door poking my head outside the car to listen for the source of the noise. No clue.

Through my observations, I can quite safely conclude on the following regarding the issue:

1. Noise appears when the rear seat is loaded. The bigger the load, the more prone it is for the noise to appear.

2. Noise appears as the ambient temperature is warmer. Hotter day, easier for the noise to appear. Made worse when the rear seats are loaded.

I typically have no issues when driving alone in the car. If I had to make an educated guess, I would have to say it has something to do with the body itself. I inspected the spot welds behind the rear seats and saw that some of them had let go. I'm wondering whether that maybe the cause of it. At one particular time, one of the broken spot welds was the cause of a "squeaking" sound; I spread the joined parts apart and the noise disappeared. Worst of all however, (see attachment), I fear something might be breaking loose even more...

ca2n
i was going to say crack due to metal fatigue, but i guess what you posted made more sense.
thanks for sharing

haha i'm an IT person afterall

=edit=
hmm the tagging thingy broke lol

Yup, you're right. My car was rear-ended by a W124 about 8 years ago. W124 was probably going at 60 km/h. I was at 0 km/h parked at the side of the road. I was beside the car and saw everything happen thinking it was a dream...

Anyway, car went in for body repairs. And the crack is definitely fibre. What I'm implying is that the metal part underneath the fibre must be undergoing a substantial degree of flexing for it to have effect on the fibre above. I was thinking about installing the UR upper room bar to see if the noise is mitigated.

While we're at that, can anybody recommend a reputable body shop? Ones that may entertain some additional spot-welding structure enhancement and not just spray and lacquer? I sent in my car for a full body spray in USJ 1 a few years back and judging by the quality you see in the photos, well....

4G63T? 

good job DIY
consider replacing valve cover gasket as well

as for engine oil, can ignore the value before w, and yes xw40 is a very common viscosity for our 4g1x engine.
Proton originally specified xw50, Mitsubishi overseas specified xw30 with very old API rating, so i went with that

and i have full intentions to end such debates

huge thanks for the lists
is it ok with you that i rehost it on my server? (paid hosting for many years, won't suddenly disappear/take down)

additionally, would you have 1.5 iswara auto (pre LMSS/LMST), and 1.5 LMST auto price lists?
in case there are minor differences

so my LMST 04 follow Iswara 1.3 LMST 06-08 list?

As you like.
There are hosted on my dropbox anyway.

Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A)
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M)

Thanks!!!    

p/s: 27k for...? :: faint ::

Hi, Guys..since this thread is active back. Been silent reader for 9 years since my new car till now. (from wira 05-07)
07 Last batch Saga LMST.

-till up to date been driving it , reliable if maintained well and some crave for power with few mods.
-Touge,TA,and testing to find a suitable powerband for driver (me) itself.
-Nice to meet you all bro's it been since the 4g1x forums went dead.
-Anyone did selfie their engine bay here? 4g13/15?