We got tauge with kryptonite2009 before meh?

I drib selow. Bai

Sounds like ada short circuit or earth tarak cukup. I repair my iSwaga on an ad-hog basis. Mana rosak, tampal mana.

All Saga/Iswara/Fiore came with standard anti roll bar attached between the sway arm. Not necessarily to detach stock ARB to change damper/spring. I believe what others mean is whether they need to detach their ULARCACING ARB.

Come look for me/my staff. Free road assist up to 6 times P.A. No 3rd party/fire&theft. Want do? Comprehensive straightaway. Additional PA, can be arranged for waiver depending on vehicle age.

Loading can't waive, whilst your mother's company if exceeded 15 years vehicle age will load 30%. I'll take that 1/2

Me got, alot.

There aren't any repairer other than yourself. Please use epoxy glue and bind it before it's totally cracked. Transparent leather polish is good, but don't apply too much. If need be, dilute it with a little bit of water and gently wipe it through. 1 thing good about leather polish is, they're very little synthetic ingredient in these polish. Can literally prolong synthetic rubber/skin/plastic surface and keep them moist for a long² time.



This my baby, which currently kidnapped by my aunt

The best effect for dashbaord bond is dismantle it, then apply epoxy resin from the INSIDE of the crack. This way you wouldn't have to deal with those bits and lumps on the dashbaord surface after being patched. Once applied, make sure you apply enough support for the dashbaord, incase if the plastic change shape then it spoil all your work. Reason for using epoxy resin is due to the material can stand high heat. If you have the time, after you've applied epoxy to the cracked site, put an extra plastic plate onto of the epoxy as an extra support and glue the surrounding of that piece of patching plastics. That whole area will become a full reinforcement and guaranteed will not crack again.



After enough experience with this, consistently applying tyre shine/silicone base polisher, the entire dashboard had turned into POWDER! *My point is, tyre shine is for tyre! Not your bloody dashboard!!!



This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 7 2015, 12:03 PM

No necessarily to remove the UlarCacing ARB for damper replacement. Regardless, magician will have to double jack 1 side(1 is to jack the sway arm to compress the spring, another is to lift the car up) of the car before removing the damper then finally the spring. Hence, with or without the UlarCacing ARB, the way to do remains the same.

As for your worry, if jacking up the car 1 side would rendered the break of welding bracket...I can't imagine how you went through a 90 degeee sharp turn 60kph corner at Sg.Besi interchange Mahameru Might as well find out it breaks during damper change, rather than it breaks during your attack Still can't brain how they came up with such ingenius idea of so called ARB that required welding to make a braket Might as well get a steel bar weld it directly on the sway arms

Heh? Quazacolt

Who me? I not too worry, cause my usual speed is 90kph. Highway 90, trunk road 90, corner 90, firelane 90, parking also 90

drfeelgood

Very pretty. Later karat liao bkam lidis

Disagreed I can scrape some rust, dilute it in a glass of water for you to drink, see whether placebo or not Engine is clean on a dirty engine bay can simply relate to recently engine blown, no money to transplant had to overhaul Besides, refer to my fuelly ady know ayam an FC oriented driver If it has to be related with TUNE, then it's an FC optimized tuned monster. Nothing related to performance

Solenoid kong will judder EVERYTIME u switch off the engine. It's likely to be overflow IMO. Before jumping into "tuning" your carb, it's advisable to give it a carb cleaning process. I solved mine with a bottle of electronic contact cleaner. I know there are specific carb cleaner spray out there, but I had bad experience with the carb cleaner spray which I wouldn't like to share it publicly, hence Alcohol base solution is my next best bet. The usual spray and vacuumize of throttlebody several rounds at high revs. Once done, change sparkplugs. Ever since, never happen to me anymore

On the worst case scenario, it could be the solenoid START to kong, where the shaft weren't able to extend fully when engine's off. Which you have a very good chance in reviving it with electronic contact cleaner spray. It could be stains on the shaft that prevent it from thrusting but that's all. Tuning carburetor is the last thing I do, and I only trust CO reading where I need to send my car to a magician who has a machine/dyno machine to do so. Others who always claim which sifu very powderful, by listen to the engine sound, see the RPM, feel the engine vibration, smell the exhaust fume ady can tell whether it's rich/lean is a big question mark to me. On a very bad situation where a petrol car start to emit black smoke, that ofcourse even a blind person also can tell it's running rich. But hey, how do you know it's not because of lean AIR that causes the RICH on FUEL?

My carb tuning never been kacauing me other than, overhaul job, change from 4toto back to stock - whilst other surroundings been upgraded such as valve springs, lifts, and also weird setup of exhaust system Other than the mentioned, the carb has been always running on the same setting after got out from the O2 reader and or dyno machine Do you get what I mean?

Looks very much like this 1, dun have trumpet, but got adapter came together to fit external air filter.



By the name of SOLEX, seldom heard of it. According to previous owner, was detached from motorcycle. Originally came with an adapter for 4AGE, so my magician sent the 4toto to machine shop, bring along a stock intake manifold from chop shop and had it fabricate a special adapter for my 4G13.

Reason for downgrading? Partly due to waifu make noise, fuel price hike if you remember there was 1 point fuel price raised up to 2.70 where nobody can tahan. Call me an idiot, sold the whole set for RM400 which that point of time really have no intention to pursue on performance anymore.

Let's go dyno

Frankly, the 4toto experience was all about responses. And yeah, especially after 5krpm. The trouble is, my 4G13 ran out of breathe at about 6.5krpm. Despite having enough fuel after tuned up the carbs, it can still tarek all the way beyond 8krpm, I don't feel the sprint anymore. Do you get the idea of from 1k ~ 4krpm tarak VTEK, after 5K rpm it goes very smooth and back stickingly fast. But after 6.5k rpm, the backsticking feel gone According to magician, the valve train already topped out. The birds already standing at the fence where the stock cam aren't pushing hard enough. Even if we change the cam, a good chance where the valve spring isn't strong enough to retrace the valves any faster, a chance where the valve meets piston is there where standing at 8krpm Added, a friend of mine whose running on reinforced valve spring, customized billet cam blown the valve hell out of the rocker, smashed through the bonnet I was lucky to not dig into that deep before I realized I'm spending money into a black hole. 1st gear 8krpm, shift to 2nd ady 6krpm, tarik until 8k, upshift again on 3rd, again stuck at 6krpm++. It feels like totally out of power band. The car isn't going any faster other than the intake and exhaust screaming very nicely, sounding like a real VTEK.

The good thing that I realized after switched back to stock pistoned carbs, it isn't going much slower then when I was 4toto. My tuning was set to the lean side according to the external CO sensor. With slightly retarded ignition, the entire powerband has been switched over to low/mid end. However, the valvelifts has been further released. I wasn't sure why magician set it up that way, but was told due to lean setup and early torque band, the loosen valvelifts will help to sustain inertia during cruising. True enough, the setup gave me a consistent of 13km/l on a regular basis despite the horrible KL traffics. On straight hiway drive back and fro JB will easily yield me 18km/l and above.

It feels like this Very spontaneous. Good response. Very driveable.



This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 18 2015, 10:24 AM

1982 Lancer Fiore Potong 1986 Zakar / 1992 Swaga / 2003 LMSS / 2004 LMST / 2006 LMST Merdeka Edition 4G1x series injin stended setup is for RON88 In Marehsia, the ignition / carb tuning and valvelift are tuned for RON92 by factory stended So, how your magician know which stended tuning should use ar Does he has a blueprint for RON97 may I ask? Wish to borrow and see. Also hor, tuned based on what basis ar? Listen? See? Smell? Touch? Or CO reading? I wonder

p/s: The troll aside, most if not all magician also tune base on RPM/and engine vibration. And ofcourse, use timing light to gauge on ignition timing nia. Otherwise, it is safe to follow the given DIY tuning. Magician is also human, can't tell which is the right setup without CO reading

This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 18 2015, 04:44 PM

So, your 4G15 is not from the Fiore 4G15?

That is 1 good tuner! Were you using RON97 during the tuning? If yes, than it is optimized with RON97 liao.

My 1st Potong Night 8v ran very nicely with RON92 without ping at all Until too much pimple, put SKII half year come back, no choice to sell car when needed to drive with umbrella during rainny days