After all the posting exchange, it is quite confirmed that your butt feel gaves you better placebo, hence lighten your foot and at the same time the car gaves you better mileage

1) A magician that uses timing light, the firing timing has been optimized to the circumstances where the engine health stands
2) A magician that uses ping detector(the hospital heartbeat reader thingy) to read ping can further finalize your ignition timing settings. Usually when procedure 1 is completed, this is the next step to micro decreasing ignition timing to minimize/eliminate ping/knock. Usually they no longer use hand to push anymore(only will do counter clockwise at this point to further retard ignition timing), use a small thing may be test pen to lightly knock on the distributor to get the best setup out of it.
3) A magician that uses CO reader will know how much is the exact carbon monoxide released from your exhaust tail pipe, so he/she can adjust your air flow/idling throttle angle/fuel flow/FICD actuating angle(for aircond), headlights power draw adjustment(oh yes! our Swaga got this feature also!). Adjustment is solely justified base on how much CO emission when the magician go "bem bem" your car, but I bet most magician doesn't do the "bem bem" according to normal driving condition, such as 3krpm! Usually will bem until red line, which is unrealistic. If you go redline often, will you still be worrying on FC? Probably not. If you're an ordinary driver, what is your rev range? Probably 3krpm max
4) A good magician will repeat step no.1 and 2 all over again to reconfirm the 3rd setting does not affect the ignition timing. If ignition timing has to be reset, step 3 may need to redo depending on how far off step 1 is. Usually, an average magician already can gets step 1 right for the 1st time. Hence, there are really no need to repeat the process at all, but for the sake of confirmation, and yes that makes a difference between a good magician and a lousy magician. Usually its not about the skill anymore because the good 1 and bad 1 are almost similarly skillful, but the good 1 will go an extra mile to confirm his setup has been carried up correctly.

AND, for the price of RM20, even he didn't repeat you also should feel grateful ady Nowadays where to find RM20 tuning that involved all the above!

When was the tuning carried out? Carburetor got cuci or not before the tuning? This is a mechanical carburetor engine, any slight change of condition the setting also will deviate, depending on how bad the condition is. Unlike EFi engines can auto adjust everything according to engine health condition. Even our old 4G1x MPi that can't adjust ignition timing automatically also can adjust fuel injection rate to adapt.

Autochoke can be rosak without affecting much other than cold start idling speed. Definitely not affecting of what RON fuel you use

I really curious, how did you obtain the FC reading from your previous posts where you mentioned 14km/l? Is it the FUELLY way? Or the pay RM50, call it a tank? All my life, other than newer high compression vehicles, the 90's designed engine that has significant fuel economy between RON92 and RON97 was my CRX B16A The RON97 will really make hell lot of difference! Not to mention the power output, the fuel economy speaks for itself if it was the CRX. However though, the very same era my Potong Night 1.5S very much like to drink the RON92 red color devilish juice I feels like I can chase my own CRX with a ranjiao Plotong car when my mate is in my Hongda And, when I put RON97 cucumber juice in my Knight, tibai the bugger is like forcing my kids to eat vege lidat Go up hill will roll backward geh

I was saying we go with cars, then park the car outside of performace shop, then u start running on the dyno roller like thradmill see u hoe many horsepowah. Poke the CO sensor in uranus, while u run try to fart & see how many PPM

Ok back to serious. Why not open the rocker cover, tighten back all your valve lifters to factory spec. I believe may improve a lot of your town driving mileage. Besides, tighter lift doesn't really deter that much of mid high end power anyways. If you tighten the carbs to further lean it, infact the factory setup lifts not only can give you better mileage + smoother pickup + gentle to ears and I believe will reduce the cikikcukucikicukuparaparasakura engine off situation No harm trying right?

But ayam not a tight lifter guy After my oberhol, magician tuned my car until so nice, I forced him to redo the lifters 3 times until I satisfy

Berapa kuda?

Look good. 4 toto maybe?

This is gold

This is gold

Let's watch the vid again shall we



Well, I can't tell for sure, but on 2nd gear 7krpm 90kph makes a lot of sense to me. I once also 4toto, overclocking my tachometer at unkonwn region So yeah, my 2nd gear most of the time break 110kph ady May be need jedi_master confirm it. The craziest breed I've seen was once I saw an unknown engine head with a SATURN wording on the rocker cover, whilst a familiar 4G1x block at the bottom. Came to know it was a 4G15 block oversized to 1.7 running on a 1.2lit 4G11 head to make it ultra high compression U know la, small town do budget mods, all kinds of rojak came alive at these rural area when I was in kampong.

Something look like this, but engine orientation is transverse.

Marvelous! U have inherited the G O L D !

Before investing heavily on top overhaul, might as well give it a shot.



I was having white smoke and sweaty combustion chamber for some time. Was planning to send in for overhaul, but pending year end bonus that doesn't come. My bio bro throw me a box of this and a bottle of industrial alcohol/spirit mixture. After plonk in the plugs, pour in the mixture to the petrol tank and fill up petrol. After drove for a week, things started to change. FC improved, white smoke reduced. By the time bonus came, I can't see smoke anymore from my tail. After a year+ later, took out the plug do inspection to found out it's much less wet then before The overhaul dragged another few more years until piston ring worn off!

Total investment for plugs was RM48, alcohol/spirit RM2, that was back in 2004. Now, the plug is RM60+GST, alcohol/spirit is RM3+GST

Ini boley ka?

http://kahchai1985.blogspot.com/2009/02/rv...ke-upgrade.html

Perdana set basically berak&pray. The only thing needed is custom fabricate the mounting extension plate for the berak kaliper.

Oh this 1... bery easy. Sell kar bai VIOS

On a serious note, depend on how long no start. 1st thing to cek is always minyak hitam. If not enough or become sticky, get it changed before jump start. Brake fluid whether sufficient. Radiator coolant. If the car being dump there for more than 1/2 year, it's highly recommended to drain petrol tank and replace it with fresh 1s. Who knows vapor may condense inside the fuel tank and give you enough water to hydro-lock your engine? After jump start, go drive selow and try to make sure all the brakes are functioning ploperly before drive to magician.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 13 2015, 09:30 PM

sold my last unit C21 today. bai LMST

It's been long I haven't do the trick. I remember it's something like methyl spirit(or in short call it meths). It used to be very cheap, at 2~3 bucks a buttle. As far as I understand from my bro, by putting not more then 10% of meths into a full tank of petrol helps to evaporate water/moisture in the petrol tank, at the same time it cleans up the entire fuel line, AC pump, carburetor. Technically, the meths doesn't even help in controlling combustion with such low flash point. We believe by adding meths into the petrol would have lower the RON rating from 92(those days) to say 87 or so? I don't recall I'm hearing any pinging sound from my engine, hence I assume my pre-detonate is minimal or none, in view of my retarded ignition setup.

I can't be certain whether the spirits or the 4 head plugs helping my engine previously. It's my bro's idea since he's way more experienced with his 4G15 then me. He was looking at my DBKL ubat nyamok sprayer, thought might as well give it a shot since the engine is going for an overhaul anyway. Surprisingly, after the treatment white smoke become less. After a year or so, white smoke almost close to none. Until it reaches a point even idling/constant speed travelling also blow smoke, which I believe piston ring worn off. That was few years later after the treatment.

And no, I'm not doing the SPIRIT mixture often despite I'm spirited driving most of the time when I was younger I scared the low flash point might fry myself under hot sun.

air fuel mixture fucked up will emit black smoke

p/s: I really doubt on the blue smoke thing nowadays after many experienced with 4G1x overhaul. At times when client told me they had bluesmoke, I only see white smoke. At times client said it's red smoke, I saw white. Hence I decided I'll only take 2 types of smoke, black for air fuel mixture, white for any oil burning related issues. I don't really care what color my client tells me anymore, instead I'll get them drive away infront of me so I can observe how the smoke blows out, and whether it's black or white

This post has been edited by davidke20: Sep 7 2015, 06:10 AM

Wanto sell liao ar I offer 1000

Ahh!!! Desperate situation ar? Ok la I offer 500

Aside from my joke, the better idea is to find a mean price from Mudah, which is around the price you got your car 3 years back.

http://www.mudah.my/neighbouring-kuala-lum...s&mds=20&mde=20

So, if you really did managed to let go at Mudah price, you'll just as good as having free ride for 3 years other then regular maintenance. Are you considering to release the front disc back to me if you're selling car?