Hi, may I know how many stainless steel hoses are there for the cooling system? Is it advisable to change all stainless steel hoses and rubber hoses of the cooling system if the steel hoses show signs of rusting?

You mean the "water pump pipe", as shown in the pictures below ?

As far as I know there is only this piece which is then connected to the rubber hoses and the water pump outlet.

If the pipe looks like it is going to puncture, better change it, because a coolant loss leads to overheating which seriously damages the engine. Rubber hoses should be changed if they show signs of cracking, blistering etc.

Also, the radiator water should be mixed with the coolant additive, and for best results, use distilled water. This is something that some users skip and the resulting rust causes a lot of damage.


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Yes I believe it should be the waterpump hose, its showing rusts superficially (unsure how deep it is) at the connection point to the rubber hose that leads to the bottom of radiotor. I have not noticed any leaks so far, is it necessary to preemptively replace all the steel and rubber hoses while doing a waterpump/timingbelt replacement?

As far as I know, the metal pipe is not usually replaced unless there are obvious signs of rust that risks a puncture.

If the rust is at the connection point, it is easier to inspect how thin is the remaining metal.

Sometimes certain metal connection point that has rough rusted surfaces can be filled in. However it is better to let the mechanic inspect the rust to make a decision.

My 1993 ISwara Auto was choking like mad for many months. My Mechanic did whatever necessary...tukar spark plugs, plug cables, changed fuses, tuned the Carb, new petrol filter. etc you name it.

Finally when the car mati one day and totally cannot start, the tow truck tarik my car to the mechanic. CHanged to new starter...ok can jalan but still choking. I got so fed up of it until I almost wanted to sell it off cheaply. But before that I thought why not I let a Carb specialist look at it ?

Left my car with him for 7 days. He OVERHAULED the Carb. RM300 only. Quite a complicated job and very few people have the skill and patience to carefully overhaul the entire Carb. I tested the car after that.... OMG.... the car was sooooooooooo powerful!! Best yet....dah la so powerful but also JIMAT petrol!!

If your iSWARA'S CARB HAS NEVER BEEN OVERHAULED.... I strongly recommend you do this. After that you will fall in love with your Iswara again. It is like driving a new car again. You tekan sikit je the car will go without hesitation. I was pleasantly surprised that my mileage per full tank also increased a lot after this.

Photo below was shot after he stripped apart the Carb. After that he cleaned all the parts with petrol carefully and slowly. My Carb was choked with so much dirt and its internals were also no longer tight. AFter he cleaned it...wow!

If u think using a Carb spray cleaner is sufficient, I can assure you that its not good enough cos very little dirt is removed. You have to OVERHAUL it and TOTALY remove all the dirts trapped inside...and no matter how much spray you use also no use.

Now i REALLY fell in love with my Iswara all over again. Never imagined this old car can still make me excited after 31 years. So glad I sent the Carb for a full overhaul instead of selling the car. Now I will never sell the car. The good thing is the Carb wont kacau or cause any issue for the next 20 years.



This post has been edited by empire: May 8 2024, 08:57 PM

Hi Albert, did you ever replaced that starter? Mines showing signs of probable starter problem, battery seems fine headlights are strong when turned on just battery powered with engine off. Turns key to crank sometimes causes a deadlock Click (Single Click) without further action. Key needs to be turned back Off and reignite again, sometimes need 5 or more tries but once it cranks it cranks without hesitation. I heard we can whack the starter if it refuses to work? But I have troubles locating it, is it the part that seems stuck to the gearbox below the thermostat and U Water Pipe (there's en embossed word of MBT 12V with Mitsubishi logo)? Do you have a diagram? How was your starter problem back then?

This post has been edited by frontierzone: May 14 2024, 06:10 PM

Where's this specialist for carb? What happened to your car when it mati? The starter doesn't work anymore?

Starter died. changed it...but still the car choking. When tekan pedal... it wont go....but choke....coughing. So confirmed its the Carb. My regular Mechanic in PJ cant do anything cos he is clueless about OVERHAULING CARB cos its a very complicated job.

The specialist is in Sg Buloh. Proven highly skilled Carb OVERHAUL specialist. Not many people dare to do what he does. Others will main spray spray je... cos they takut to dismantle the entire Carb....so this will not solve the carb choking issue.

Another stupid mistake I made last time was using the K & N Air Filter. Dont listen to those Sohai's who said K & N Air Filter filters dirt even better than the original car air filter....cos that's BS!

Due it its poor filtration, my Carb was exposed to tons of dirt and dust for many years and finally it choked and caused me so many headaches. The Carb specialist said NEVER use any sports air filter as it will cause long term damage to both engine and carb. Anyway I put back the Iswara Original Air Filter already.

Does your Iswara have that L shape plastic tunnel that plugs into the fender to extract cold air into the carb?

And your starter died, what symptoms you had? Does it Click 1 time when u turn the key or totally silent?

\
The Original L SHAPE funnel broke...so I used an after market one from shoppee. Not a snug fit but better than nothing la. Many mad people removed it and thought it will mean better acceleration..hehehe. I was one of them. Now I know... the original air filter design is still the best.

Yes....starter died...means TOTALLY SILENT.

your Iswara any issue?

This post has been edited by empire: May 15 2024, 01:41 PM

But that L funnel my stupid mechanic always remove it when doing stuff and cannot plug it back into the fender hole properly, I told them they complain to me cannot go in already out of shape the plastic, i tried myself use screwdriver slowly push it in it can but everytime they repair they will take it out and no plug it back.

Starter when engin hot, like parking a while at mamak later wanna start , Turn -> 1 click -> Silent -Turn -> 1 click -> Silent -Turn -> 1 click -> Silent -
Then after many try, suddenly turn Vrooom can.
Annoying and worrying as thought cannot start but only happens when hot, cold morning start is OK.

with engine off, turn on radio and headlight everything look bright and and radio OK, nothing dim means battery not weak.

Battery terminal connection also tight.

Starter problem or?

Both Starter and Carb could be the problems together

Yes I did changed the starter. Together with the battery and ignition switch. To troubleshoot the same thing you described, what is known as the "famous Iswara starting problem" (there is a lowyat thread on this topic too.)

But, in my case the cause is not the starter, because the problem occured even after the 3 things were changed. Finally I asked the workshop to instal additional relay and the problem went away. It seems the workshop keep stock of the relay (with ready wiring and connectors) in anticipation of this problem.

I don't know why this problem occurs. In my case, it is intermittent ie happens once in a while, not everytime. From discussions, some say it is ageing witring, or the antitheft alarm relay.

The relay costs around RM20; I don't remember the cost of a refurbished starter, it is maybe a couple of hundred ringgit or so.

Is your starting problem intermittent or always happening?

Below is photo of starter location, it is hidden under the intake manifolds You can see the terminals between the 2nd and 3rd intakes.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 31 2024, 04:05 PM


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This post has been edited by Albert B: May 31 2024, 04:06 PM

Exactly its intermittent, when it happens it happens for a few weeks or month then somehow it may magically dispppear and reappear again some other time.

Are you able to use external Image Hoster like Imgur or Imagebb?

Your description of the problem is exactly the same as my case.

You can try to get the mechanic to fix the additional relay, like I did. Don't waste money on starter motor, ignition switch, battery etc.

in fact you can buy the relay kit online, eg:
https://shopee.com.my/Universal-Starter-Wir...a1-9ed02e18e757

Previous discussions on this problem on this forum is at :

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=79566164

I do not use picture hosting sites as this forum allows direct insertion of pictures that are permanent. Only faced this problem now.

Does yours work by whacking the starter with a stick or spanner?
Has it ever left you stranded as it refuses to start?
So far I haven't had any misfortune of totally unable to start, usually just takes more tries to fire up.
I'll take a look at that thread you posted.

hi guys my saga after 9 years only ran for 101,000KM.
maintenance schedule messed up because under utilized.

brake service, change coolant , cvt oil (including gasket &filter), timing belt , and engine mounting 4 years ago when it was 60,000.

brake pad changed 2 times , brake disc recently checked still can use.

what you guys recommend to service and change ?

I have never tried whacking the starter motor for 2 reasons : the problem still occurs
exactly the same even after the starter was replaced (so precludes the starter as the
fault) , and the location of the starter is blocked by the manifold and other parts
which prevents use of suitable item to be used to hit it.

No I have not been stranded by this problem as it always starts perfectly by the 3rd
try.

From my experience, I can rule out the starter motor, battery and ignition switch. But
I can't explain why the additional relay completely eliminates the problem. Also, in a
previous car (not Proton made) with the similar circuit design, no such problem occurs.
One member of this forum says the difference is the addition of the alarm central
locking which includes a cut-off relay (for anti-theft) could be the cause.

What puzzles me is that one moment it just respond with just a click, the next moment
it starts perfectly.