I guess the vibration should be either the engine is struggling with insufficient power to go up the incline, or the clutch is slipping.

https://ibb.co/0CVKkPL
This is how it looks. How bad is it?
Will the ball joint separate and cause a catastrophic wheel detachment?
Ao far I see no unusual thread wear on my tyre threads. The car sometimes veers to left side if I don't hold steering, sometimes it doesn't.

Wearing of shaft meaning the CV joint?

Also does steering racks issues cause significant problems? I was toldby the mech about this torn bushing and steering rack although he won't give much detail as to how urgent or serious it is.

This post has been edited by fookhing: Oct 30 2023, 12:37 PM

Oh, it is not the bushing as I initially thought, but the ball joint dust cover. This is supposed to keep the grease in and dirt/water out. Since it is broken, dirt and water will cause rust and wear to the friction surfaces and the later there will be free play. Not sure how long this will lead to major problems like detachment, but it is advisable to have it replaced during your next servicing. The dust cover costs less than RM10, however the mechanic will have to separate the arm from the knuckle/brake assembly to access it.

I don't think it will affect the CV joint or steering rack since they are designed to flex.

It's not he bushing? The dust cover and bushing are different things? Might it be that my mech is trying to rip me off?? He said the Lower Arms need to change both sides in addition to Changing the Steering Rack. Nothing about changing the dust cover though that's what he points out to me as "evidence" that the Lower Arms need to change.

The ball joint (with dust cover) can be bought individually, or the whole lower arm including ball joint and 2 bushes can be purchased as a set.

It is possible that in your case, the bushes are also worn out in addition to the dust cover torn. This can be checked by jacking up the car and the mechanic trying to shake the arm, wheel and see where the free play is.

In this case, it is worthwhile to change the whole lower arm instead of just the dust cover, because of the labour involved.

Maybe a second opinion from another workshop will confirm it.


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Hi, thanks for taking ur time explaining.



So based on the diagram attached, it seems like the L/W (BLUE/WHITE) wire is not supplying voltage for the wiper motor to run.
I tested the motor with external battery, and it works fine.

FYI, my rear washer motor is not working which im ok with, does the wiper motor need the washer motor to be connected for it to work? seems unlikely.
Any help is much appreciated.

* I'm sorry for using Malay for the notes in my diagram, this was meant to be sent to an electrical friend. I would gladly explain the notes in English as required. tq

I am unable to figure out an explanation for the voltages meaasured. Yes the 0 volts at the L/W wire indicates no supply, but how does it explain the 2 x 14.32V (which is battery voltage at charging) at the other wires. There is no 12V supply from the switch, so where does these 14.32 voltages come from?

From the circuit, the faulty washer motor should not affect the wiper motor.

1) Are the voltages taken with the socket plug connected to the motor, or disconnected?

2) During the measurement, is the wiper at the home position, or stuck in mid wipe operation?

3) I presume the front wipers are functioning normally.

I am trying to explore some possibilities like a broken ground connection, or some wiring mix-up ...

Yes, everything is connected, i just turn on the engine and rear wiper switch, took the measurement at rear wiper motor socket (4-pin socket).



Yes, the wiper is in home position.



indeed, the front wiper are functioning normally.





it seems only the pale greenish/blueish wire on the switch that gives volt reading. is there anyway that i could bypass the switch to test wiring circuit?

Note : as seen in the rear wiper motor picture, i replaced the original socket (from the car side) due to visible corrosion on the socket pin.

any advice is appreciated. I am trying to DIY this since multiple trip to accessory shop was not helpful.

== update ==
Ihave updated to suggest that it is worthwhile to test for ground connection first, see below, because it it is the fault, the other continuity tests are unnecessary.


Not sure about the pale green wire as Haynes circuit does not have this in their diagram. It could be from the washer motor or wiper motor. If you unplug the wiper motor socket, does this voltage this show, or drop to zero ? update : this shows that either the wiper motor or the washer motor is returning the 12V, this suggests a ground fault and continuity problem.


For the wiring, it is necessary to establish the connections by doing some isolation & continuity tests. Below is proposed test based on the Haynes circuit diagram.


1) Unplug both the sockets at the rear wiper motor and at the switch.

Identifying supply wires
========================
2) Measure the voltages at the wiper motor plug. Only one wire should read 12v (ignition at ACC) or 14.3 (if engine is running).

3) Measure the voltages of the 4 wires at the switch plug. There could be some voltage in the one wire connected to the washer motor, but I am not sure since it is faulty. If there is, we know this is the wire. Or we can find out by deducing the wire colours.

Continuity tests
================
4) Next, the remaining 2 wires between the 2 plugs will be tested for continuity all the way from motor to switch. With the multimeter set at Ohms, and one of the probes will require extension wire if not long enough. As the continuity test is using multimeter's internal battery, the ignition switch should be at OFF, to prevent any stray 12V going into and damaging the multimeter, just in case.

5) The continuity tests between the switch plug and motor plug by colour code (or trial and error) for the remaining 3 wires. There should only be 2 pairs with continuity between switch plug and wiper motor plug. Anything else is open circuit or short circuit.

6) Then the last wire should be tested for continuity to ground at any chassis body panel.


== edit ===
The above procedure might be too intensive because of full continuity tests of the wiring. There might be a chance that only the ground wire is broken, we can just start the procedure by testing this first. Unplug the socket at the switch and test the connection of the ground wire to body chassis to see if it is really connected to chassis ground. I think it is the black wire.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 8 2023, 10:37 AM


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Aprreciate all the contributor keeping this thread alive!

I have a problem recently with my 34 yo Saga. At random, the car will shake and jerk even during idle rpm drops. When I tried to pump the accelerator pedal several times, the jerking still persist.
Details about my car:
- Megavalve engine
- 8v carburettor
- Recently performed top overhaul, distributor change*, carb service, plug change
- bought timing light from shopee and did timing adjustment diy since workshop use intuition to do the adjustment previously
- During top overhaul workshop unable to start the car, then found out distributor needs changing. They changed from original mitsubishi to hansa brand distributor.

I suspect either carb need servicing again due to shoddy workmanship or non ori distributor causing the issue. Car able to run for a while after top overhaul then this issue arise. Any feedback. Thanks in advance

This post has been edited by Dweller: Nov 14 2023, 04:29 PM

My 1993 Iswara 1.5 Auto also jerking issue. Changed the Distributor...spark plugs...starter. IT was ok after that for 2 days. 3rd day the jerking came back but not as serious as before but still irritating. My Mechanic suspects its my Carb...cos 30 years already.

This post has been edited by empire: Nov 14 2023, 11:33 PM

The engine jerking problem is usually frustrating to troubleshoot because the fault can
be from so many sources, see Haynes troubleshooting guide below. And for your case it
is intermittent so it makes it more difficult to pin-point.

Did the overhaul include the piston and cylinder bores? I presume your Megavalve is the
12 valve version so the distributor has a built in coil instead of an external coil.

For a start, you can check some of the easier things:

A) Remove all the 4 spark plugs and examine their condition for the following:

1) 'tracking' ie the short circuit of the current.
https://www.google.com/search?q=spark+plug+...ih=503&dpr=1.88

2) the condition of the electrodes, for fouling by oil or soot, and also clues for the combustion conditions.
https://www.google.com/search?q=spark+plug+...ih=503&biw=1024

3) The gaps of the spark plug electrode should be 0.7mm (which is about the combined
thickness of 7 sheets of notebook paper). Too large a gap will force the current to
short circuit instead of bridging the spark gap.


B) Examine all the vacuum rubber tubes to see if they are hard/brittle or soft/supple.
A brittle tube will crack and cause leaks which will affect the air/fuel ratio and also
mess with the control process like vacuum advance timing, hot idle compensation etc.


C) Run the engine at night, open the hood, look out for sparks (=leakages) at the high
voltage leads from the distributor to the plugs. Use a wooden stick to move the leads,
do not touch them, they can cause electric shocks.


I once had a replacement of the valve stem seals and later had engine jerking problem
which was caused by oil leaking through one of the new seals and fouling the spark plug
in one cylinder. Apparently not all spare parts are genuine originals...

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 15 2023, 06:06 PM


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Man, always appreciate your help.
Yesterday night I did checked the carburettor. And found out one of the vacuum port on the intake manifold was left open . Not sure whether it was left open during top overhaul activity or ac compressor change. Closed it using heat shrink (no vacuum hose available at hand ), issue still persist.



I really thought distributor kaput since not using ori mitsubishi. Then surrender already and sent to expert workshop (good workmanship, able to tune and service carb and use proper timing light to do timing adjustment). Foreman starts by driving the car, open the plugs and checked. Electrode all OK. Then found out one of the plug connector tip is black like charcoal already instead of silver (picture below) indicating poor contact. Then he proceed to look for used spark plug cable from his arsenal and plug it in. Voila. Fixed the issue.

Total damage: RM5
The car is purring happily now
Luckily it's not valve stem related as in your case . Else the fix won't be so simple



Note in the future: I should've opened my Haynes book and not fully rely on my poor intuition


Guys, can let me know and tag me if you need any info from the books. I try to contribute also

This post has been edited by Dweller: Nov 15 2023, 08:04 PM

My case solved. It was spark plug cable causing the problem. You can perform check as per Albert B and my previous reply

This post has been edited by Dweller: Nov 15 2023, 08:02 PM

congrats. I will change the spark plug cables too. My plugs also damn black when my mechanic took it out even though baru changed 1 week ago.

This post has been edited by empire: Nov 15 2023, 08:17 PM

It turned out to be a simple "bad contact" problem, not the troublesome issues I was anticipating that require tedious troubleshooting. (Will have to modify the troubleshooting methods ie should start with the even more simpler issues.)

The photo of the vacuum port on the inlet manifold shows that the rubber tube has cracked and is being held by zip tie cord. The vacuum line is for air-cond fast idle speed, so it will affect the air-cond operation plus also letting in air to make the mixture more lean. I have similar cracked tube at the solenoid at the bulkhead and also tried tying it but didn't work. I changed the tubes for about RM1.50 per foot length.

Ghetto mode. later I will buy proper vacuum hose. But now my FICD is tapping vacuum from the back of my carb. Got one brass fitting protruding out towards the cabin. my vacuum connection all already rojak. My EGR exhaust also not connected to anything now. Do you know where to connect it?

From my own observtions, the EGR is controlled by a thermo vacuum switching valve (TVSV) that is situated next to the thermostat, plus maybe throttle play. The connection is via some metal tubes that run under the manifold, see attached photos.
The vacuum tube for EGR is marked with green dash lines.

Here are a couple of youtube videos of car owner explaining the EGR connections:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf7MVzE4yKU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujjEUndzdSw&t=505s


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Buddy....can tell me where your mechanic is? I looking for a Mechanic who can tune the Carb well.

The shop is in Kulim. Bengkel Membaiki Kereta Ah Sun