Edit: Wrong thread

This post has been edited by PseudoWoodo: May 6 2023, 04:33 PM

hi guys need some advice. My old iswara (1997 model) oil pressure warning light doesnt work.

I removed the instrument panel and confirmed that its not the bulb, but rather the circuit board. Is it possible to get a replacement circuit board?

oil pressure switch



This post has been edited by croydon: May 9 2023, 01:43 PM

thanks for your reply. It's not the oil pressure switch. the oil light totally doesnt work, even when first turning on the car. This means its the circuit board.

The oil pressure warning light works by completing the circuit to earth/ground when there is no oil pressure. The bulb is connected to the 12 V supply when ignition switch is at ON position, but the circuit is waiting to be completed by the pressure switch (at low pressure).

When engine is started the oil pressure rises and this disconnects the switch, so the light goes off.

So the bulb not lighting up when ignition switch is turned ON does not rule out a faulty pressure switch.

You can DIY check by disconnecting the plug to the pressure switch an shorting to engine ground to see if the bulb lights up. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqj76OWFKpA



Attached thumbnail(s)

thanks for the explanation! I will try that.

BTW where did you get the circuit diagram from?

do you guys know how to fix the oil door lid misalligned and cannot be closed?

oil door lid? apa tu?

fuel lid door

I sent to shop and they change to a new one

The diagram is an extract from the Haynes manual for the export version of the Iswara to the UK. It is not the workshop manual, but is compiled by those examining the car and combining with material from Mitsubishi manuals. There is some difference in the UK version, but the circuit working principle is the same.

You can buy the Haynes manual online see examples:
https://www.google.com/search?q=haynes+manu...ih=503&dpr=1.88

It would be great if the actual workshop manual for Iswara is available.

hello sifus,
probably a noob question, do you guys ever feel an old car like this might just have the wheels break off while driving long distance?

i own an iswara manual from 1997.

100% no and won't unless you using low quality/fake aftermarket wheels.

use original wheels and lug nuts sure no such issue.

May I know if the hose that runs through the firewall on passenger side (likely aircond glovebox area), to the engine bay and goes downward, that's the drain hose right? Mine always points to the lower pan area near the CV Join? that area always wet spot. Is the hose supposed to align to face downward to the road (empty out to the ground) and not drip to the pan / shielded floor area?

Yes that is for the drainage of the moisture removed by the air conditioning system.

It appears that manufacturers of cars do not align the tube other than pointing it downwards. Because the water will be falling not in a straight line but shifting due to vibration, speed up or down, cornering etc. And the area around the steering rack end, the lower arm etc will be wet. And likely it does not matter because that area will be wet anyway when driving through water puddles. And for some reason that area is not that vulnerable to rust compared to door sill, wheel wells, floor pan etc.

The important thing is that blockage of this drain pipe can occur and that leads to water overflowing in the cabin and underneath the carpets and rusting the floor pan undetected.

will the proton service centre entertain my 1997 iswara if i drive it in for restoration?

mainly refurbishing engine bay, painting body and restoring upholtery. Curious if anyone tried before

May i know if the Starwheel for clutch is turned counterclockwise continuously will it reach an "end" or it keeps turning but does nothing more once the max is reached? This is just my curiosity as I'm not sure how the mechanism works.

Also, is there anything such as if the starwheel is loosened too much (lots of cable slack and freeplay), does it cause clutch to slip?

It maybe placebo, but I seemed to noticed that if I loosed the starwheel a lot until the point that I still can change gears without grinding, I seemed to get a loss of power like clutch slip. Tightening the wheel gives better acceleration but I don't quite like to get the bite point of the clutch too high up as the clutch pedal will require a lot of force to push in.

If the starwheel is turned continuously anti-clockwise, it will come out of the threaded portion and slide down the cable tubing. Then, if the clutch pedal is pressed, the cable and tubing will just move together through the firewall, if there are no stoppers etc restraining it at the firewall, which I am not sure there is or not.

The starwheel device together with a similar device at the clutch housing side acts as anchor points for the tubing so that action at the pedal end is transferred to the clutch end by the cable sliding in the tubing.

The starwheel adjustment is to change the anchored length between the firewall and the holder at clutch housing so that the amount of slack is changed accordingly to compensate for clutch wear or elongation of cable.

If the starwheel is loosened for more slack, the effect is the clutch engagement/disengagement point at the pedal moves further down the stroke. This means the clutch will never slip when pedal is released, however the clutch may not be fully disengaged when pedal is pressed for changing gears. If the starwheel is tightened too much,there is not enough free-play at the pedal, and the slip ("riding-the-clutch") will occur and damage the clutch. The specified pedal free-play is 1 inch.

Sometimes we may feel our car's performance is sluggish, but we have to remember that
1) our senses are not that accurate to judge precisely the performance,
2) the engine peformance vary from time to time due to ambient conditions,
3) the wind resistance and rolling resistance will also vary similarly.

For item (3) I used to do "coast-down test" on the same car and loads on the same stretch of road at different times and the results are always not consistent.




Attached thumbnail(s)

From my own experience with the service centers for national cars, they seems to be very bureaucratic ie they carry out standard service items. For a certain repair of malfunctioning part not on their standard packages, they told me to wait for them to order the part.

I think the outside repair shops are more flexible and fast when it comes to such work.

Albert B, do you know whats this rubber sheathed likely a nut to the posterior area of the manual gearbox.

There's a sideway mounted nut and an upright "likely a nut" sheathed by rubber. I noticed this area is exhibiting quite a lot of oil leak and the rubber sheath seems torn and whrn I turn it clockwise it no longer tightens. I think there's a nut beneath the rubber but i can't ne sure. What I can see is it seems the rubber has a threaded part that sort of screws downward.

https://i.ibb.co/LvKhFn3/IMG-20230726-192803.jpg

This post has been edited by fookhing: Jul 26 2023, 07:31 PM

Is it this part (breather)?
https://shopee.com.my/GEAR-BOX-BUSH-(MANUAL...1234.3951786032

https://shopee.com.my/ORIGINAL-PROTON-GEAR-...0615.3855802083

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/proton-g....4210IZlKIZlKAq

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=AB5stBh...=EXP61VTvvD4CdM

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 26 2023, 10:16 PM