Mine leaked like crazy. the prob is the small gasket below spoilt. Very easy to fix

my 1993 Iswara is the best batch Iswara. The parts are over engineered. Proton wanted to create a huge impression with Iswara cos they wanna Export out to UK...which they produced the Proton Cares UK spec Version with a 1.5 fuel injection engine. Mine is carb...but Proton still over engineered the first batch.

can you believe...the original auto gear box lasted 25 years before I had to Overhaul it?? The entire Exhaust system from the Manifold all the way to the the rear muffler  are STILL the original one from 1993! That means even after 28 years now in 2021, the entire exhaust system is still in working condition!

The ride comfort is superior to all Iswara's  from 1996 models onwards.  1996 onwards, Proton  started to cut cost and used cheap parts and did NOT over engineer the car anymore unlike mine. If you sit in my Iswara, you will Immediately notice the far superior ride comfort and road handling.

these are the reasons I refuse to sell my Iswara.

ISWARA 93 is over engineered. Saga 1991 is the usual famous plastic Saga model and fitted with cheap suspension and cheap parts.

Is it this part (breather)?
https://shopee.com.my/GEAR-BOX-BUSH-(MANUAL...1234.3951786032

https://shopee.com.my/ORIGINAL-PROTON-GEAR-...0615.3855802083

Yes it is. Is it just a rubber dome and no metal nut?

What's its function? Is oil within the proximity of this breather normal? when I tried to pull out this dome a bit it seems torn at the "leg".

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/proton-g....4210IZlKIZlKAq

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=AB5stBh...=EXP61VTvvD4CdM

Not sure about its construction. It  is some sort of relief valve, to prevent the air inside becoming like pressure cooker conditions which will force oil out of seals.

Looks like it is normal to have traces of oil around the breather. This is expected because the air coming out during the many cycles of heating cooling contains some oil vapour.

For some reason, the forum page does not download the full photo when the thumbnail is clicked on. So I have extracted the breather portions side-by-side for comparison. They look nearly the same, the difference being the lighting. You can see the oily patch are about the same. No I did not clean the area.

Screw A is mixture for idle only. Screw B is the main jet adjustment. Attached are more documents about the carburettor construction.

Oops -- for some reason, uploads are not working ....

Again this is the corrected version of our aisan carb adjustment screw . Above screw is the idle jet air bleed screw , the bottom one is the main jet fuel adjustment screw . On older manual choke carb , the tamperproof blank is not there , on later autochoke on iswara is blank off, in order to access it , might require some dissemble and whack the blank out .
I cant stress enough , please don't mess with it unless you are preety sure what you are doing . If you had to just for the sake of buttitch , i recomend to count the clockwise turn to fully tightened and wrote it down . The proceed little by little and test  each time after an adjustment. If anything gone wrong , just refer to the earlier count . Leave the idle air bleed screw as it is , as it have little to none  minor adjustment to overall as per our carb designed. Main jet have the biggest difference . If you doesnt have any wideband , the general rule of the more rich the air fuel is , the more smooth the engine will be , the more lean it is , the engine will be slightly rough running.

More manuals, this time from Mitsubishi. Some of the info appears also in the Haynes pages.

If the bushing is damaged, there is free play where the arm is connected to the chassis. The steering will wander when the arm shifts around. The car can still be driven, but the shifting will wear out the shaft.

Oh, it is not the bushing as I initially thought, but the ball joint dust cover. This is supposed to keep the grease in and dirt/water out. Since it is broken, dirt and water will cause rust and wear to the friction surfaces and the later there will be free play. Not sure how long this will lead to major problems like detachment, but it is advisable to have it replaced during your next servicing. The dust cover costs less than RM10, however the mechanic will have to separate the arm from the knuckle/brake assembly to access it.

I don't think it will affect the CV joint or steering rack since they are designed to flex.