I had a look at that belt cover, the 3 bolts are labelled "7", this should mean its 7mm?
One of the bolts is holding the dipstick holder is this right?

Also I'd like to know during an engine oil change recently, I believe the old place I am used to going is no longer so careful in their work, resulting in my oil being filled up to 7mm above the midline of MiN and Max. it used to be exactly on the line in their previous work, and I noticed they spilled some oil near my engine oil cover when taking out the funnel too quickly, i can say it looks like a rush sloppy job.

I also found the dipstick topmost part to have a bit of dirty black oil from my previous used oil. Inam unsure if that may be from the newspaper they use to clean the dipstick which has residue of dirty oils.

For both the scenario above, is the oil level OK and any comments regard the slight dirty oil remaining on the dipstick? Should i clean that away and see If i notice anymore dirty oils after some engine run time?


https://i.imgur.io/bbmPwNO_d.webp?maxwidth=...fidelity=medium

Somehow my dipstick holder is bolted on the timing belt cover nut.
The tube near it (unsure if its petrol tube) has some sticky dried odourless varnish.

https://i.imgur.io/qGlxxMH_d.webp?maxwidth=...fidelity=medium
My oil dipstick level after oil change.
I am.unsure if the top LIne means MaX and if so my oil seems overfilled. Bear in mind I check the oil level in morning when engine is cold. There's seems to be a coated engine oil on the area surrounding the dipstick too.

This post has been edited by surianti: Feb 14 2023, 10:32 AM

1) The number 7 on the bolt head is for grade of material, related to the strength of the steel. I remember the size is 10 mm, but you can easily verify this by using your existing spanners.

2) No, the bolt is not connected to the dipstick holder. You can Google for 4G13 timing belt cover - images, and you will see lots of photos where you can see the 3 bolts locations. Maybe some mechanic use one of the bolts for anchor point, but you can check if you can reinstall it correctly afterwards.

3) The dipstick lower line is for Minimum, the upper line is for Maximum. There is no middle line. For some reason Proton or Mitsubishi positioned the word Maximum higher up. Your oil level is 7 mm above the Maximum which may cause frothing when crankshaft counterweight hits the oil, but I don't know if 7 mm is in that zone, or is it still OK. If you see bubbles in the dipstick, or similar signs, then it's a problem. You can release some oil by opening the crankcase drain bolt, to be safe.

4) I am not sure about the dirty oil, is it located at the holder tube portion?

5) The varnish at the oil tube is some oil vapour escaping from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. If you open the air filter you might see some oil at the place where this tube joins the filter box. It's a sign of blow-by increasing, which of course occurs in engines after some time of use.

==== update ===
Below is photo of cover for timing belt. I don't understand how the bolt can be used for the dipstick holder.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Feb 14 2023, 11:10 AM


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Yes bro, tried & when moving forward it works, thanks a lot bro
Just the reverse is still vibrating, i went to the workshop and he told me to press more gas, he said car vibrate because i didnt press enough gas, he tried drive and no vibration, but he press like 3000RPM even before car start move, he said carburetor car need to press more gas while i drive whether is move forward or reverse i try to maintain around 1000 to 1500 rpm, and also as my previous post he told me to drive longer then no more vibrate to let the clutch & gearbox run more smoothly since it converted from auto to manual, guess I just wait

1. I believe that's right. The 7 is not the size. Should be 10mm.

2. I believe my mech may have had moved the dipstick holder to anchor at the bolt as you suspect. Based on the timing belt cover picture on the right (above that you posted), the dipstick holder is anchored to the top-right bolt which is nearest to the dipstick hole for my case. I do not know why that is and would be curious where is the actual anchor point for the dipstick holder.

3. I do notice the revving is not as refreshing as when I did my last oil change with the correct oil level. And I do notice a more frequent clicking of the relay that switches on and off the radiator fan, indicating a higher temp may have been induced. Although I'll have to do more driving to get a more definite conclusion on this.

https://cf.shopee.com.my/file/8d40b3e7418c3...3c5b777112577d5

This would be the oil sump, any idea where the oil level would be if it has right on the MAX line?

This post has been edited by surianti: Feb 14 2023, 04:55 PM

Good to know at least the problem is partially solved, for the forward starting which is occuring most of the time, especially in stop-start jams etc..

For the reverse gear vibration problem, I can only guess based on the gear ratios of reverse gear at 3.083 compared to 1st gear at 3.363 (about 10% difference) makes it less gradual transition from standstill.


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No idea where the max level is. Enclosed are some diagrams from Mitsubishi manuals, there is no indication of the oil level.


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A bit of updates after driving today. Drove a few km distance and parked to check the Oil Level. It is exactly at the MAX line when the hot engine is switched off. The level will only rise above Max Line after sitting out till engine is cold. The car does feel more sluggish and more burdened to accelerate than what I felt was a refreshing revvy engine after the past oil change (before this one). Same exact engine oil was used (15w40). I look and compare both bottles of leftover oil from this change and last oil change. The oil level remaining in the bottle isn't too much much different. Both are slightly below 1 quart left.

Next I did the dipstick observation after driving. There are no bubbles visible to indicated frothing. Checked twice, once at destination and again when I'm back home.

Might the sluggish acceleration be a result of higher viscosity in the new oil? Some theories suggest the oil degrades over time due to heat and repeated cycles of use and lowers the viscosity down so it might have led to what is felt as more revvy engine when my car was almost due for oil change?

Update: The recent Proton oil filter is different than my previous oil change.
As previously my spareparts shop can provide the large ones, now they only seem to have the slim and longish ones found on modern Proton cars instead. Not sure if this can cause any issues although I did confirm with them if that is usable on my car.



This post has been edited by surianti: Feb 15 2023, 03:00 PM

1) I do not have detailed knowledge of lubrication oils of Iswara engine. Perhaps our forum host Quazacolt who is the expert in this field could help answer your queries.

2) I am not sure if the overfill of your oil in the engine is serious, I think it could be that there are enough margin set by the engine designers that a little overfill is not going into the danger zone. Because I have also noticed our mechanics tend to overfill sightly and nothing happened.

3) The important thing is to see if the oil pressure warning light comes on, like flickering while driving, which could indicate bubbles have reached the intake.

4) Note that the feeling of sluggishness could be due to other factors like road surface, wind, air temperature etc, or may just be our our body sensing is not that accurate from day to day due to our body's varying conditions.

5) Not sure about the big and small oil filters. What I know is that large oil filters have more filtering space so won't clog so early, but however it takes longer to fill if oil have drained out when engine is unused for longer periods. And the starting of engine is the most crucial in wear of bearings due to delay of oil arriving. If the oil is not that dirty maybe a smaller filter is sufficient between frequent oil changes. Just my speculation; let the experts comment on this.

May I know for this older version of Air Filter housing with fendermount cold air intake, how do I insert the tube into the fender?

Just insert la. Whats so hard?

There is a hole at the power steering motor side...

I do noticed that my Oil Pressure Indicator no longer seems to turn on prior to cranking the engine. The usual observation in the past would be both Oil Pressure and Battery indicator would lit up when key is ON position but engine has not been cranked up.

Present observation is only Battery is lit up on the meter console when key is ON.

Do you know what this would mean?

This post has been edited by surianti: Feb 20 2023, 12:27 PM

It means any of the following:

a) Indicator bulb in the instrument panel is blown. You will have to remove the panel to change it, by following the steps in the instructions for repair of the odometer posted in this forum recently.

b) The oil pressure sensor is faulty. It is located at the engine front side. You can inspect its external condition and the wiring by looking up under the oil filter area, see photo below.

c) There is a break in the connection between the pressure sensor to the bulb in the instrument panel, example wiring snapped, socket contact is bad, circuit board damaged, bulb not sitting properly in the socket etc. You can test this by inspecting the back of the instrument panel, re-seating the bulb, or exchanging bulbs.


So the oil pressure light has not been lighting up for some time, whether the engine is running or not, and thus you have no means of monitoring the oil pressure condition. This can lead to serious problems even if you have been maintaining your oil level properly, because if there is a sudden loss of oil due to massive leakage like broken sump, loosened drain bolt, loosened oil pressure sensor, you will not be alerted by it and keep driving. The occurance of such things is rare, but they can happen.



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Great explanation thanks, I'll check the nut when I get to it see if the pressure sensor connection maybe loose.

Btw, I previously mentioned that my dipstick holder is bolted to the timing belt cover nut.

https://i.ibb.co/fdNSM29/IMG-20230222-163307-1.jpg

This would be how it is.

It leaves me wondering why is this picture (from YouTube) showing the dipstick can sit so much lower than mine. If my mechanic had relocate the dipstick holder to that arrow-pointed nut, My disptick would definitely sit much higher up.Would he have modified the oil sump or anything like that hence why it sits so high that it can be bolted to the timing belt cover?

1) Besides the oil pressure sensore area, take note that the instrument panel area could also be a possibility.

2) The Youtube photo shows correctly how the dipstick should be, as delivered from the factory. It is also as depicted in the Mitsubishi manual drawing, see below. Your dipstick holder has been modified, so the question is whether the sitting position or the length were also modified so that the oil level reading is correct. You will have to compare with another Iswara side-by-side, take measurements etc to check it.


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Wow thanks a lot bro, so detailed
I have driven it some times now, when release the clutch in a certain level it seems vibrate more, if able to release to the best vital point the vibration is much lesser, also the workshop mechanic to me to press more gas for manual with carburetor car

I don't have access to another car to do the comparison yet. But do you know where is the original dipstick holder bolted to? Is it somewhere along the fuel pump?

As for the overfill issue I have been giving it a week and it still feels different a lot than before my oil change. When I rev, the RPM just doesn't seem to want to climb very much, like my car is carrying extra passengers with a bigger weight hence loading the engine.

I think I'm going to try to ask the mechanic to suck out an amount of oil out of the dipstick hole as it isn't a very safe way to reopen the drain nut. Do you know whether they might be using some kind of hand operated siphoning pump? I hope it's not one they co-share to use for siphoning brake fluids as it would introduce contaminants into my oil sump.

The dipstick holder is attached to the bolt on the lower plastic cover for the timing belt, see photos.

Workshops usually have a machine (operated by air or electric I am not sure) used exclusively for engine oil removal.


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I had the shop siphoned out around 1/4 of a litre of the oil from sucking out of the dipstick, the engine seems to be better than before. Acceleration has improved.

Also I did told them to also had a look at my master cylinder brake fluid while at it. I'm not sure if they tightened the cap sufficiently, there's still a bit of room for further tightening when I came home to check it. I was parked outside for a few hours before that to run some errands and before I am back home to check the cap tightness I felt my brakes turn sonewhat spongy.Might opening the brake fluid cap introduce something undesirable?

As replied on main forum on things to look out and replace.

Also what's your exact RPM even you're releasing clutch pedal and vibration happen?


Agreed on this, especially if you have faulty, worn or old clutch parts