Yes when you do the timing adjustment using timing strobe light,
the notch will appear like in the photo, but the notch is not at the
specified setting angle.

The black & white photo is just an illustration, with the
engine removed and not running. (When an engine is stopped,
the notch is not likely to be anywhere near the timing indicator
which is near TDC because the compressed gas inside the
cylinder will turn the crankshaft pulley away.)

The attached shows the specifications for Iswara (taken from
Quazacolt twitpic), and where the location of the notch
should be at the timing indicator for correct timing when
running at idle.

The specification for this case is 10 degrees before top-dead-
center (BTDC) and I take this is for idle speed and vacuum
(that means no need to remove the vacuum hose which is the
method specified by some car manufacturers.) Usually at idle &
no vacuum advance the correct setting is around 2 degrees BTDC,
with the idle vacuum adding an advance. I do not have the Proton
specs for the various variants, so I do not know the specs for
your engine. The Mitsubishi workshop manual says it is 5 degrees +/-2
for 4G13 engine.

When you rev up, the timing automatically advances due to the
centrifugal advance mechanism inside the distributor.

When you open the throttle more, the timing automatically retards
due to the less vacuum operating the advance mechanism (the little
UFO on the distributor). Idle = high vacuum.

If the notch is difficult to see in the strobe light, you can highlight it
using correcting fluid or chalk, after wiping away the dirt. It is a bit
difficult as you need to feel for the notch around the rim of the
pulley in the cramped space.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 20 2017, 11:17 AM


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You can still access twitpic? Thought it was dead

The photo of your maintenance sticker in my posting above
was downloaded some years ago, thus I did not access
twitpic recently.

By the way, I have not come across this sticker in the Iswara;
I wonder if this is Proton's common practice. Especially with the
importance of info about plug gap and of course the timing angle.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 21 2017, 10:15 AM

Ah that explains it.

Practice as in lack of information /sticker within engine bay for the later models?

Mine is the very first gen bought brand new (was like 48k?
Pretty much around 60k or more if it's money today lol)
Iswara 18 years ago and it is first owner (my mom) passed down to me.
So maybe things were a bit more complete /proper that time, like having that information sticker.

The LMST, the final version of the Iswara Saga, also do
not have the sticker. So, like you said, the later variants
are lesser in terms of info for DIY, and, on further thought,
maybe this is in line with the trend towards cars with more
computerised controls and less of users' ability to meddle
with them.

Or just cost saving

" When you rev up, the timing automatically advances ... and " When you open the throttle more, the timing automatically retards ..... " here i confuse. So what so u mean if i accelerate the car like normal driving, advance or retard ?

The two automatic actions from rpm and vacuum to
advance or retard (or reduce the advance) acts together
simultaneously. The resulting advance or retard is nett
or sum of these two.

The distributor shaft driven by the camshaft is not a single
piece. There is a joint that is acted upon by the rpm governor
which changes the rotor angle relative to the camshaft.

The detector plate is not fixed in the distributor, it can rotate
due to the vacuum in the UFO.

Example (figures just for discussion only):
1) Idling
Vacuum advance = 12
Rpm advance = 0
Nett advance = 12 + 0 = 12

2) Floor the throttle pedal, rpm just starting to rise:
Vacuum advance = 2
Rpm advance = 3
Nett advance = 2 + 3 = 5

3) Cont'd flooring the throttle pedal, rpm rise to high level:
Vacuum advance = 5
Rpm advance = 8
Nett advance = 5 + 8 = 13

ok kinda understand here. so mean when floor the pedal from 1k rpm, the timing will be retards ? And when maintaining high rpm, the timing will advance ? is that im correct ?

so if the mechanism is fail, any noticeable warning sound ( like weird engine noise somethings ) ?

anyone know the orientation for the thermostat? Since the thermostat already removed previously, I dont know the exact positioning of it. I know the spring side is toward the engine block, but I'm not sure the correct orientation it should be seated.

Yes, but these are only two instantaneous moments from a
whole range of possibilities in between. Engine loads i.e.
vacuum and the rpm are always changing.

If the mechanism fails, the engine will behave as one out
of tune, vibration, lack of power etc. If, during timing
adjustment, you can try to tune it off the normal, just to see how
the engine behaves.

Attached thumbnail(s)

The vacuum pipe on the distributor is actually connect to carburetor which part ? Which control the timing I think

Mostly the mechanism fail is on the distributor itself or ?

Thanks

The vacuum hose is shown below, and attached to the UFO.

You can try to trace the hoses to see where it leads to.

I have not come across a failure of the distributor.


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I only have experience about the ignition coil inside the distributor. Only buy from Proton ori or Mitsubishi ori. Other brand pretty scary 😂😂😂.

Anyway thanks bro !

Anyone know where is the temperature sensor indicated on the dashboard for proton saga?
Initially, I thought it was the one on the picture below, but mine was already disconnected and yet the temp gauge still working.

The double pin one is not the sensor, it's probably for some
control, and additional feature. It is the one next to it, still connected, see below for
comparison with that of the usual Iswara. You can try to disconnect it to confirm,
however beware, the plastic socket may disintegrate.


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Dear sifu

In the Proton Saga 4G15P which one is the transmission return line (from the radiator to the transmission)? This is because I want to drain the torque converter. Thanks.

I'm not sifu so can't answer that for sure.

However it's only one of 2 hoses, you could just unplug both of them and immediately find out.

Personally though, no point to drain the torque converter unless you're planning on overhauling/rebuilding the transmission