https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads/attach-25/...-1490695043.jpg

the green line column that picture, do u have the information about that ?

(Manual trans.) When engaging into first gear from non-moving state, my car will jerk during the bite point. It feels as if engaging into a higher gear than 1st gear. Say ordinarily if you engage into 2nd or 3rd gear from non-moving, you get that sort of jerk during the bite point. Mine is 1st gear has that. Try increasing the rev but it still jerks.

Is that normal?

This post has been edited by [Ancient]-XinG-: Mar 31 2017, 06:40 AM

Ok guys another issue, is the firing order 1-3-4-2 for Saga Iswara SOHC 4g13 Carburetor?

1-3-4-2 it is.

By the way, you got out the crank bolt ?


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No info from Proton related manuals etc.

Only got bits of info from the net, example below:


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I experience this when, during letting go of the clutch pedal, I hold at the biting position. If I just let go continuously, it does not occur.

Thanks for the bolt out, by calling a mechanic.
He lowered the engine one side by loweing the cross member, and then stopping the flywheen by putting in an iron bar through the starter motor hole, and then applying all his weight.
I also did put some WD40 24 hours before this, so it may have helped too.
I dont recommend this method as there would have been extreme twisting force on the mounts. But it did get it opened.

OK car started, but but but...
1) There is sound from timing belt area.
2) The belt is riding to the very edge (engine side) of the cam pulley, is it normal?
3) I think belt is hitting something, or the crank pulley is hitting the plastic covers.
4) The Cam sprocket has a tiny bit of wobble like movement, but I am not sure how it is possible!

1) The flywheel lock method : that means the starter motor
had to be removed too?

2) I was searching the net about the crank bolt issue - it seems
there are aftermarket tools to lock the pulley, see example below.

3) The belt tends to ride on the outer edge (seems flush with it),
factory-fitted belt or new belt.


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fuh..my overheat problem solve.change to full aluminium 2 layer rad..

Yeah. I saw a distributor laying around at my mech's place, there is a pin to remove from the shaft, then only you can access the oil seal.

I was thinking of solving all the oil leak problem around my engine and the last part to solve was the distributor. Replaced quite a number of stuff the past few weeks including drive shaft long and short, lower arm, clutch plate + clutch cable, valve cover, timing belt, aircond compressor + it's filter and hose + that ufo looking device that goes up and down when the compressor kicks in, all the belts, absorber links, steering bushes, flywheel seals, gearbox oil change x 2, radiator to two layer, plugs, and a few more I can't remember.

the car has not started and run for a year.

the only leak now comes from the distributor, replaced the O ring for the distributor myself, now thinking whether to replace the whole thing, why not just dismantled it and replaced the damn oil seal. I've already bought the oil seal. Now sourcing for the pin puncher...

now the temperature is slightly high, middle of the bar, probably due to the teksi pakai sae40 oil i bought to see whether there is oil leak or not.

planning to replace the headlights, the sarung and the front bumper, then i'm done with the car.

This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 2 2017, 10:41 AM

Wow, you did all these repairs yourself, including replacing
the clutch ?

Must be very skilled and experienced.

Mechanics these days charge a lot for car repairs, and
many do not do a good job either.

Maybe I should look for you one of these days.

Try to post a high resolution photo of the of the rear part
of the curved throttle cam, where the cable ends.

If I am not mistaken, the autochoke's cam which is connected
there, and which is pulled back to press against the throttle to
raise the idle speed when the engine is cold, is also missing.

I do not see any nut securing that cam either.

This is the cam whose adjusting screw at the rear I told you
to turn out all the way earlier, so as to try to disable the
autochoke when the engine is cold.

I think this is part of the throttle linkage assembly which comes
with the complete carburettor.

The Thermostatic Vaccum Valve.


I had a hard time tracing the route of the hoses from
the three pipes a few years ago.


The red-coded (broken lines) hose on top goes to the pipe
at the right side (looking from the front) of the carburettor.

The middle hose, green lined, goes to the EGR valve, as well
as the lowest pipe (of three) at the back of your carburettor.

The lowest hose, white lined, goes to the intake manifold vacuum
pipe which you can see at the rear bottom, underneath the
carburettor. It also goes to the pipe at the left of the carburettor,
which I think is where the autochoke is.


In my car, the middle green pipe had broken off from the heat
a long time ago, so I used a T-joint and connected its hose to the red pipe. (The whole thing is lousy plastic.)

It seemed to work normally and performance improved.

Then the car started running sluggishly, so I disconnected the
EGR valve's hose (green one), thinking it had given way or was
clogged.

Finally, I found out last two weeks that this was due to the top
red pipe having broken off as well from the heat.

So I used those two-tube resin sealant to seal the area around all
three pipes, not sure if it would work.

I then connected the green hose back to the EGR valve.

The car ran smoothly and acceleration improved instantly that
night. This is because the exhaust gas recirculating back to the
intake manifold cools the mixture, reducing detonation (somewhat
like water-methanol injection).

However, it ran back sluggishly again a few days later, so I think
the seal did not last.

I was told this stupid thing cost over $100 , or $90 for a
Taiwanese one.

James, the owner of Universal Auto Parts in Pudu, told me
long ago that nobody bothers replacing it when those pipes
break off, so it could be left alone.




This post has been edited by Tham: Apr 2 2017, 07:23 PM

Lol. Nah. How I wish. Some basic maintenance, no problem, but all these beyond my expertise. Got a mech to work on it. But it is running well now. For a 400+k km clocked on a 15 year iswara aeroback se, I'm actually very happy with it. Engine still runs fine. Oil leak minimize to the distributor. I was leaking a pool each run to the shop due to the leak from the flywheel seal. Lost like 3 liter in 1k km run.

do u have picture to show all of those piping u said ? because mine is ori never repair or take out before, and all are in black color. i kinda not really understand, and one more what is EGR valve ?

BTW, still appreciate ur explanation.

More like during the initial bite, i goes trembling. Like wouldn't want to synchro smoothly.
Not big deal is it?
Maybe the tension is less. Need to turn that tensioner knob, make the bite point higher.

Btw, I notice my car exhaust drip water quite noticeably. I think it might be water from the radiator. Although there's no white smoke. Like after I come back from a journey on a hot day, I can still see clear water droplet at the exhaust. If I run the engine on idle, the water drops like 1 drop in every 2 seconds. Is this normal?
The other day just noticed my radiator reserve tank empty and radiator itself is slightly lack of water. Refilled everything.

Yes, I was told that flywheel oil seal leaks a lot when worn.

My last car, the Toyota Corolla, the oil really gushed out below the
gearbox when driving out from this shorty (and cocky) mechanic shop's
in Sri Hartamas, below my office years ago, after some other repairs,
years ago.

Since he had spotted it for me, I let him replace it for me
the next day, as a mark of gratitude to him.

My usual mechanic in Cheras at that time, Ah Keong had not
replaced it for me at the same time he replaced the clutch a
couple of years before that.

No wonder this air con man in Jinjang, Ah Tee, said you must
replace the flywheel seal at the same time as the clutch, especially
if you do not do that much driving, since the clutch will tend to last
longer then, but the seal itself will wear with age.


Did you replace the driveshaft oil seals at the same time as
the clutch and flywheel seal ?

The boss in AME Parts, Simon, when I went to buy the clutch disc,
diaphragm, bearing and all three seals from from him recently, asked
me whey I was buying the two driveshaft seals as well, since those
normally do not leak and lasts a very long time.

The vibration comes with age. Same with mine for the past two years.

As the clutch disc wears, the interface flywheel as well as
diaphragm may not be that perfect, as the fiber surface, as well
as the flywheel surface, may be a little warped.

The diaphragm's springs may also be a bit worn.

The bearing may also be old. Mine has been chattering ("tak tak tak"),
especially when the car is stationary with the engine idling) for some
time.


Yours can still be used for at least two years more.

The mechanic, like the one in Sungei Besi when had thought of letting
him replace the clutch some time ago, might tell you to skim the flywheel,
but I was told by another other mechanic that will in fact wear out the new
disc even faster.



http://www.ehow.com/list_6806680_causes-cl...vibration_.html

https://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-clutch-pe...on-meaning.aspx


http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questio...utch-job-normal


The water from your exhaust is a combustion by-product
(H20 plus CO, or carbon monoxide).

It's normal and means your engine has been properly tuned.

Look at the bottom of your air filter housing on the right hand side.

You will see two hoses connected to two small vertical pipes underneath.

Those two hoses are connected to a main pipe at the intake manifold
just below.

Get a T-joint (buy one of those metal ones with taps from aquarium shops).

Buy a couple of yards of small vacuum hose from parts shops.

Cut some suitable short lengths.

Pull out the hose from the intake manifold going to the inner of
one of the two small pipes under the air filter.

Push the end of this hose to your T-joint.

Connect back one end with a short length of new hose to
the other end of the air filter pipe which you had just pulled out.

Cut a longer length of hose, say one and a half foot, then connect
one end to the third pipe of your T-joint, and the other end to the
"Missing Vacuum Hose" pipe of the choke as marked by Albert.


The screw which I marked in green with an arrow is the one I told
you to adjust.

This screw is used to adjust how fast the choke's cam raises the
idle speed when you start the cold engine.

If you turn this screw out as far as it can go (make sure not all the
way or it will come loose), you will disable the choke so that it
will not rev up your engine when it is cold.


I think the choke also has a valve inside there to richen the fuel
mixture (less air, more fuel) during cold start. This valve would be
controlled by the choke's piston which is pulled inside, since
the wax inside contracts when cold.

The two inlet and outlet water hoses are supposed to warm up
this wax when the engine is hot, so it expands, pushes the piston
outwards, leans out the mixture, and pushes the choke's cam outwards,
lowering the idle speed again.

I think after you connect the above vacuum hose there, you can also
lower this idle speed with a quick tap of your throttle.

With the older bimetallic spring type autochoke like that in my Opel
Gemini, a quick tap of the throttle also brings the idle speed down
again, after the choke's spring had revved it up on a cold engine.

I will come to the thermostatic valve later.
Albert should also be able to explain that to you.



This post has been edited by Tham: Apr 3 2017, 12:38 PM