Bikes aren't as interesting to me as a car. Not gonna condemn the bike but cars are faster around a corner

Anyway, we're digressing

Whilst I do miss the tech talk, the thing about tech talk is eventually everything would have been discussed or debated.

- No, your engine won't blow up if you use a lighter oil
- Yes you can

Won't make a significant different anyway. 0W30 maybe byt 5W30 probably won't feel any different.

LiquiMoly is one of the more expensive brands out there. As long as you're using a reputable brand, be it Penrite, Chemlube, Mobil1, Royal Purple, Motul, LiquiMoli, etc, as long as it suites your wallet, it's usable.

You just need to consider what viscosity you want and whether you want semi or fully syn.

Unless you're in extreme conditions like racing, super dusty roads, super red-lining everyday for hours at a time, etc - then you need to know what type of oil you want for real.

Just be careful of brands that appear good but have dubious backgrounds. Like Cusco oil, they don't make engine oils and yet you see that brand oil in the market. Or Bardhal who sells their fully synthetic top of the line oil for RM90 only... Know your product. They are usable to some degree but don't expect top quality oil performance.

That's pretty healthy for a "budget" oil change.

Penrite HPR or Eco. 5L bottles

Yeah agreed. Boiling engine oil like that means nothing in real world applications. I'd be more concerned about shearing, varnish cleaning and all that rather than oil boiling in my engine

What's wrong with buying 4Quarts instead of 4L? Worried then buy 5Quarts la.

Based stocks don't burn like that la. It's more likely the additives and all.

If sealed and stored in a cool dry area, those oils have 5 years shelf life no problem. But I wouldn't keep it that long in our super hot and humid weather. Maybe at most 3.

5 cartons? So 400+ only for 20 bottles of 1Quart 5W40 FS? That's quite cheap.

Whilst the comment about worn piston rings is somewhat true, the rest of your statement is very 1950s la. 15-20 year old cars under my care use 5W30 fully syn without issues. Initially I had to replace gaskets and seals but after that it's all good. Minor oil burn off after 1000km but nothing a little top up after a while can't fix.

Well, if you befriend a spart parts shop (buy from them enough and chit chat with the folks), sometimes they'll reveal what to buy and what not to buy and all that. I get a pretty good price from this shop outside my area and they tell me this is fake, that isn't etc.

Seeing the packaging for those fake Mobil1 bottles, it's kinda faded and looks very odd. You won't really be able to pinpoint what's wrong with the looks but you'll know it looks different in some way. But that's me mainly because I work for Mobil so I see it quite often. Anyway local Mobil1 has repackaged their bottles and the one that Tesco sells is the older packaging. So if you're looking to get Mobil oils, you'll be able to tell based on the packaging.

Others like Magnatec and all are much harder to tell since the fakes use the original bottles and all. The worst thing is nowadays bottles aren't sealed inside and use the cover as the seal. So it's harder to tell the difference between fake and real.

Only real way to know is by source.

This post has been edited by izso: Mar 25 2016, 01:55 PM

No Idea honestly speaking. I don't deal with workshops much.

-edited-

checked my PMs.. yes I did indeed PM you for the 5W30. LOL.. ok I'll need to get back to you on whether I'm curious enough to test or not. Pricing wise it's not as cheap as what I'm getting for Kendall and Penrite.

This post has been edited by izso: Mar 25 2016, 06:57 PM

How do you figure it's fuel smell? Perhaps you have an issue with your fuel hoses/rail that's mixing up the smell in the engine bay?

Just thinking off the top of my head though, fuel mixed into engine oil is quite extreme. Did you check your plugs for fouling? Is the engine running normally?

Actually, I'm interested to know what's your take (anyone actually) on those people who use pure palm oil in their engines? I've seen the posts and all and all claim that all is well and is significantly cheaper since they OCI every 2k to 3k with this cheap alternative.

actually, the palm oil community don't claim the world about their oil only except that it supposedly works and is cheaper. No claims about mantaps or whatever. They aren't JTXers. LOL

Actually, because this community is majority kampong community, they don't do tests like that. They just directly pour the oil into their cars and just show how the car is running on a daily basis then show the oil change later.

Actually now when I think about it, the oil change pics show the oil almost as clear coming out when it was going in. Means it doesn't do any cleaning or doesn't remove carbon deposits and all that.

Wooo... good luck to those guys then.

What's the normal weight your engine uses? There are those who claim the louder the tappet, the thicker the oil to use. I don't know about that but I'm thinking if tappet is too loud you need to re-check the tolerances man. The 6A12 uses a hydraulic valve lifter right? Maybe that needs looking into?

And for your style of driving, any oil that matches your wallet should do. Penrite 5W40 HPR or Motul Turbolite, all works great. Just depends on budget since your requirements aren't overly demanding.

chemistry : Where do you find all those exotic brands man? And do you have any FS that's sub RM120 in pricing? I'm trying to do a comparison of sorts.