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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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izso
post Mar 31 2016, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Mar 31 2016, 05:49 PM)
Too exotic ones come with premium prices too. Can't afford to keep, not even 1 bottle.
To me, best bang for buck eo (or HDEO) gotta be Petro-Canada Duron-E XL series.
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I don't suppose you could recommend some HDEO for 120-ish?
izso
post Apr 11 2016, 08:38 AM

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That seems a little hot
izso
post Apr 11 2016, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(Post-Je-Ape-Ape @ Apr 11 2016, 11:57 AM)
Should an oil cooler help?

Or a 2layer aluminium radiator?
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Personally, I'd consider a different oil and improve on your cooling system, ie-better coolant, confirm fan is working fine, confirm radiator cap is working fine, check thermostat, confirm the condenser in the front isn't clogged causing the airflow to be restricted to the radiator, that sorta thing.

Oil cooler isn't necessary unless your car is always on track. Alu rads are overkill too unless your current one is spoilt and you're just looking for an excuse to change it to Alu, then fine. Otherwise unnecessary money.

And I said it seems a little hot. Still within normal parameters. Despite what quazacolt said, 120 is too hot for your car unless you're running on high compression or turbo setup and all that good stuff. As long as it stays between 80 to 110 thereabouts you're fine la. Besides, your temp sensor could be inaccurate.
izso
post Apr 13 2016, 07:35 AM

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Polytron, these are the guys who brought in Evans waterless coolant. Oil based coolant. Quite good stuff
izso
post Apr 15 2016, 07:39 AM

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I hate all these stupid 'no oil' tests. My friend recently drove his 1st gen Vios from Putrajaya to KLCC with zero oil in the engine at 160km/h until it starting clacking like a diesel. He showed me the car and asked me what was wrong. *facepalm*

Anyway, the point was he could drive the Vios oil-less for that long and at that speed. The only thing is the car is now in pieces in the workshop and being overhauled.

What these oil-free ads never show is the after results of their oil-less test. I'll best this car was sent to the mechanic with bent conrods, sheared crankshaft and burnt valves.

This post has been edited by izso: Apr 15 2016, 07:40 AM
izso
post Apr 15 2016, 07:43 AM

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Btw, what engine is that? I have an innova but that's not the same engine?
izso
post Apr 15 2016, 11:27 AM

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You believe correctly. FS 5W40 is RM90. And within 3000km you'll feed the need to swap out the oil already. Sluggish like crap.
izso
post Apr 18 2016, 08:24 AM

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QUOTE(6UE5T @ Apr 17 2016, 01:35 AM)
Is it really? I'm planning to try it actually.  biggrin.gif  Some guys in my car club have been using, no complaints.
Well if can spend less why need to pay more? I'm only using cheap FS oil like the Mitsubishi Eneos or those Mobil 1 sold on promotions in Tesco and happy so far, sometimes whack the car kaw kaw till engine bouncing on the rev limiter no issues even though I don't race on track, engine still clean, smooth, and healthy. Expensive and good is nothing special, cheap and bad is expected too. Cheap and good however is special, that's what we call value for money.  laugh.gif
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Good luck to your club members then! But to be fair, some people are just not as sensitive or have a placebo in place. The thing for me is I've been through a lot of different oils and have direct experience with certain manufacturers. Personally it's all crap until I try it and it exceeds my expectations. That way I don't get dissapointed. Hahahaha!

Anyway, for me the only 'cheap and cheerful' for normal everyday use oil is Kendall FS 5W30. Cheapest cuz I know someone working there and I can get staff price. brows.gif


izso
post Apr 18 2016, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(6UE5T @ Apr 18 2016, 09:44 AM)
Hahaha, your standard is high la.

How much is the Kendall?
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My friends price? RM26 a quart. Cheap and cheerful rclxms.gif
izso
post Apr 18 2016, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(6UE5T @ Apr 18 2016, 01:15 PM)
Whaa that's cheap indeed. Maybe next time I get you to buy for me, can?  brows.gif
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PM la.
izso
post Apr 19 2016, 09:02 AM

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QUOTE(j1122 @ Apr 18 2016, 11:11 PM)
Can song lap abit for me?  drool.gif  drool.gif
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Sure. But I don't know you in person so I'd request for cash up front before I purchase. And PM for details. I'm not ready to buy just yet though.
izso
post Apr 19 2016, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(B500 @ Apr 19 2016, 01:43 PM)
Wanna ask, if my EO (Total 10w40 semi syn) looks quite black after only less than 5000km, can I still continue using it to 7k km?

Note: black color but no deposits/sludge etc. seen on dipstick. No oil consumption noticed.

Also, I know the best answer is UOA, but too expensive lol.
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Generally, black is an indicator that it's working.

Semi generally can last up to 8k km no problem so shouldn't be a problem. Butt dyno should be able to tell you if the car is feeling sluggish or not. If yes, time to change.
izso
post May 4 2016, 07:33 AM

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I can't remember what my parts supplier told me exactly, but Bosch oil is a rebadge.
izso
post May 5 2016, 07:37 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ May 5 2016, 07:00 AM)
I am using Honda SN0-30 FS oil which was manufactured by Idemitsu. I change them every 8k as I am stuck in daily jam most of the time.
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Isn't that a little overkill? 10k shouldn't be a problem for you. Stop-go traffic wouldn't wear out the oil as much as you think
izso
post May 9 2016, 08:35 AM

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QUOTE(watabakiu @ May 9 2016, 07:55 AM)
Are all engine oil the same?

Tried 15W-40, both Shell (HX5) and Mobil (Super 1000). Both semi.

Mobil is easier to start, and does not feel heavy during driving.
On the other hand, Shell feels heavy, and pick-up is weaker than Mobil.

So the adage that all engine oils are made equal, is not really true, eh?
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I don't think anyone has ever said all engine oils are equal. With the amount of discussion here on the differences in oils, it's not an adage at all.
izso
post May 10 2016, 07:41 AM

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Ravenol is good shit. Expensive but good.
izso
post May 12 2016, 07:23 AM

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QUOTE(TRAZE99 @ May 11 2016, 11:03 AM)
[attachmentid=6615972]

Parts covered:
-Piston dan piston ring
-crankshaft dan bearing
-connecting rod dan bearing
-gudgeon pin
-valve
-engine block
-cylinder head
-timing gear dan chain
-camshaft dan bearing
-cylinder liner/ bore
-turbocharger
-cam follower
-rocler arm dan pivot
-push rod dan balance shaft

TNC:
- Only can claim once every 12 month
- Claims capped at RM15K
- Car should be less than 100k KM when registered for this program
- Must strictly adhere to 10k KM/6 month oil change
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Dayumm.. I'd like to bore her engine block! The one in white
izso
post May 13 2016, 07:01 AM

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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ May 12 2016, 01:34 PM)
The engine block of a human is the heart. If you bore her "engine block", mati lor  doh.gif
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That really depends on how you look at it. The mechanical part that moves up and down, up and down at a constant motion I consider her engine block brows.gif

anyway we're digressing
izso
post May 17 2016, 07:09 AM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ May 16 2016, 11:41 AM)
Proton ATF + Lubegard Red cost you how much?
Interested to try this synthetic ATF? Pm if interested :-)
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Interesting.. multi-viscosity? What is it compatible with and how much is this?
izso
post May 23 2016, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(B500 @ May 19 2016, 10:27 PM)
Better not simply mix. Different brands and grades have different additive package, when mixed, might be counter productive, even dangerous at times.
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There shouldn't be any 'danger' in using a rojak mixed mish-mash bottles of oil.

Only thing is the oil may not perform as expected or perform properly, etc.

Just do what I do - compile all the different leftover oil into one bottle and use it as flush oil when you change your oil the next round.

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