TQ sifus for all the input.

If I had to choose 1 lens right now, 35mm it is.

But, uraki's reply sounds interesting.
Need to study Sigma pulak.

Thank you again sifus..

one other option is if your really need 35 and you are prepared to go full manual is to use the Contax G mout Carl Zeiss Biogon 28mm f2.8 You then get the zzzzz ! It will be bit more but close to your $. Also if you migrate in the future to FF you are still game because it is a FF lens.


There are 35mm version too but cost more and bit more difficult to get.. the 28 will be close to 50 mm operation for APSC.

But personally, I find the 50mm lens range (75mm in APSC) more my type too.. it is a personal choice base on working with both. More for shooting portrait ..

This post has been edited by ChinWY: Aug 14 2014, 07:40 PM

wau...it so nice...

depends ur preference. for my experience, SEL50F18 CA is much lesser than SEL35F18, and slightly sharper than SEL35F18. if u very often shoot portrait, i would recommend SEL50F18

u can go sony store for test the lens

Lai lai spam spam. @lwliam : I not yet process NYC photos =.=

1)

Sunset by Edgewater Beach II by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr

2)

Sunset at Edgewater Beach III by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr

This post has been edited by d4rkholeang3l: Aug 15 2014, 02:54 AM

Wanna find an AF prime first as I need to shoot fast in certain event.
For now, my budget is for an AF lens. Next time maybe more on manual lenses.

50mm vs 35mm, 50mm more bokeh right?
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Currently using 50mm 1.8 from Nikon with adapter.
I kind of happy with it but no AF means I cannot utilize it in certain fast moving event.

Will do.

Thank you for all the replies guys.
Really helps me decide on which lens to go.

AF on prime lens is not fast (unless it is SSM).

Keeping all things constant with respect to the two lens you mention - esp distance to object - yes.

Closer the distance the bokeh will increase but depth of field ,DOF also drop and in some case, it makes it very difficult to focus on the right place or the DOF is so shallow you cannot keep the total area of interest in pin point sharpness esp not level like shooting 3/4 side profile. That is why even with a super wide lens it does not mean you can use it full open all the time.. not for me anyway when things are moving fast. I only get to toy with fully wide open lens when subject is quite static or patient enough to allow. Nothing is more frustrating than to get everything right but part of the area of interest just slightly out. Perhaps more experience photographers as something to share over this . I normally stop down to 5.6 (as advice by old school methods) and sacrifice the bokeh when objects are fast moving or do not have time.

Your head...

Shorter focal lengths generally focus faster. Minolta had a HS (High Speed) line that focused very fast. This included the 200mm F2.8G HS APO, a very fast focuser.

hi all, want ask you a question

my friend brought a alpha 6000 which is sg model
so now he download the picture memory play app on iphone
but problem is only able capture picture for preview and can't do remote control the camera.
i check on the review for this app on playtore say that varienty phone model for this remote capture picture on phone
so any solution?

Anyone has problems using Variable ND filter on SEL1018? Probably mine is a cheap one do not work.. got it to experiment.

35mm and 50mm fast har? ask yourself.

Is Sigma 19mm f2.8 e-mount better than Sony 16-50mm emount in terms of sharpness?

This post has been edited by danielcmugen: Aug 15 2014, 11:00 PM

Yes, way better. I personally use Sigma 19mm and I love it. Never used a 16-50 before though but I kinda like it for it's small size.

EDIT: these are taken with E 19mm


Fall in Purdue Campus by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr


Gingerbread House by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr



This post has been edited by d4rkholeang3l: Aug 15 2014, 11:05 PM

Manhattan Bridge by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr


Buildings of New York City by Ray Ng Photography, on Flickr

variable ND, is 2 polarize lens facing each other to cut off light(frequency)by canceling each other out.

it is KNOWN that polarizer doesnt work on ULTRA WIDE ANGLE (20mm and wider on FF, or 15 and wider on APSC)

why doesnt it work? its a physic question that is fixed, no known fix for it yet, might never will.

only way to purely drop huge stop of light is proper ND filter like LEE big stopper.... stacking several piece of 3 stop filter is bad idea too, it will cause (depend on brand) color cast (tint) like purple or red.

polarizer depends on the angle of light source for maximum effect. UWA can capture a wide FOV (larger angles), thus some angles above a certain threshold does not give the maximum polarizing effect. That's why u will see some parts are bright.

Just got myself the prime portrait/street lens (SEL35F18) paired with my A6000.
Now with all the wide-angle poisons floating around here, so which are the best "budget" wide-angle lenses I should get next?
I was eyeing the Sony 16mm f/2.8 E, Sony 20mm f/2.8 E and Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN E.
Sony 10-18mm f/4 OSS E and Sony Zeiss 24mm f/1.8 E are way out of budget, they almost cost a camera body and I only a newcomer who surely can't fully utilize it to the best outcome.