My partner has the MPE65... is very hard to use. hahah I only try it once

My friend has the 200mm...

Wah, bloody hell, I jelly

My 90mm can do both lah, just need to add on extension tubes+teleconverter to make it go to 5x only

Can't beat the 200mm for working distance though, love the feel of the lens

learn to use the exposure compensation and metering mode. the default matrix metering will always "see" the whole scene and decide the exposure balance, and backlight scene will guarantee to be overexposed.

you can either +0.7 ~ +1.0 ev, or use center/spot metering where it'll only achieve balance exposure on the center portion, or the area within the spot if you choose in spot metering mode.

however, if you shoot backlight scene, you'll need to over expose the background, means you won't be able to see anything on the background if overexposed too much. alternatively, use a flash to "fill" or light up the subject, hence it's called "fill flash".

if want to shoot silky water trails, use slow shutter speed like 1/10 (usually 0.5 sec or longer), but will guarantee some blurred image cause not possible to achieve perfect sharpness due to handheld - people usually use tripod. if want to freeze the water movement, need to use fast shutter speed - use S mode, set the shutter speed you want, and let the camera do the rest...

This post has been edited by little ice: Oct 14 2013, 03:00 PM

once again i dig back my 70-300 NON-VR lens and 18-70 kit lens photo test shot ...from 2 years ago...
this bokeh good enough?

70-300 non VR


18-70 kit lens

3 criterias to achieve bokeh:

1) closer to subject
2) longer focal length
3) bigger aperture

updated first post with beginner guide

http://www.nikon-asia.com/en_Asia/learn_an...eway.page?lang=

Just smooth skin.

The exposure and colour are straight from camera.

Fuuu...mcm baby punya skin oh

Back then I used Kenko (also known as Hoya) single coat on my 18-105, getting shit load of flare contributed by filter as compared to Hoya HD/B+W XS-Pro/B+W XS-Pro Nano at the moment.

My view is, either you go commando, or get a quality filter.

Too much jargon and information for a newcomer to process lah

Like I said, one step at a time lol, he already pushed us to V22 because you guys keep overloading him with more info than he really needs.

This post has been edited by gunzerdude: Oct 14 2013, 03:14 PM

Type of camera/lens/accesories : Unsure
Budget: Less than RM2.5k but as low as possible
Preferable brand : Unsure
Type of photography u want to do : New to photography
Any specific features u want? : No idea at all but got attracted by the lightweight Canon 100D

I am new to photography and have been using the simply point and shoot camera for quite sometime. But that camera is an old model and i realize that recently a lot of brands have come out with "compact" cameras that have DLSR quality such as the sony E-mount series. I'm unsure of what does those camera has to offer as compared with DLSR. So i have a few questions:

1. Why choose DLSR over those like Sony E-mount series?

2. What are the differences across brand like Canon/Nikon/Sony?

3. What are the entry models for newbies?

Thanks =)

Sorry for the post here as no one seems to reply in the recommendation post. Please help sifus =)

Oh yeah, flare performance is one of the main differences lah. Forgot to mention
But better quality ones like JYC PRO1-D which costs around 50bucks can already match the flare performance of B+W filters, tested side by side

Can see the cheaper quality filter's coatings are quite dull, while higher quality coatings have a glossy sheen similar to the coatings on the actual lenses themselves.

So did you sifu use a cheap one or some sort expensive one to protect??

Both cheap and moderately expensive filters also got, the JYC PRO1-D I mentioned above is one of the latter.

And no I'm not a sifu, I'm just a hobbyist saja~

learned alot, if not edi kena potong by sales man.. haha gonna head to mutiara there and find this and test out see..

lol let him slow slow digest.

by the way i learn all these by reading online free articles, as well as trial and error. in fact when one understand the basic exposure, the rest of the problem silrave faced can be solved easily, those are pretty basic troubleshooting.

lol @ background

i wish i was at KL those period....~~

going for flash.... and advice or model?? i know that nikon ori flash very expensive... worth or not to get 1??
The reason of thinking to get a flash is because going to decrease the value of ISO to get a clearer photo indoor...
and TTL flash are important right.. but TTL and wireless are not related right?