V1 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1642831
V2 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1663020
V3 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1693310
V4 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1728204
V5 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1755484
V6 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1778171
V7 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1797592
V8 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1822542
V9 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1847728
V10 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1894104
V11 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1956706
V12 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2041651
V13 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2117250
V14 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2200403
V15 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2283797
V16 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2382044
V17 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2485722
V18 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2583166
V19 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2692774
V20 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2788992
V21 : https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2897904

All Nikon Malaysia set comes with warranty card like this


The wording NIKON MALAYSIA SDN. BHD on the warranty card is the best way to identify whether it's a genuine local set.


Courtesy of KTCY

Credits to : KTCY    
                                                                                       
If you are a Nikon user, now you can register for a FREE *membership of the Nikon Club Malaysia by logging on to www.nikonclub.com.my (available from 11 April 2011) to enjoy the photo talks, seminars, workshops, photo trips, posting of images in the gallery, exhibitions, critics to save your shots, contests, products news, members feedbacks and comments, technical information and support, advice on repair service, and much more.

This club is open to all Nikon users including any collectors, photo enthusiasts, hobbyists, serious amateurs, and professionals. Members will have the opportunity to exchange ideas, share their passions of photography among the same users who understands and uses Nikon range of products extensively.

*Subject to the terms and conditions with a Nikon (Malaysia) warranty card

Credits to : zrasang
Firstly, check the outlook for both Body and Lens, if you're happy with it, then proceed to the next stepsssss. 

For the Body:
1. check the Shutter Count, the lower the SC, the better it is, just like a car's milage. Google has a clearer explanation.
2. if the Body has motor and top LCD, make sure they both work well, it's sux if the motor doesn't work, it's sux if the top LCD can't light up.
3. test the Body with various memory cards, you don't want to have error while shooting, don't you? (sometimes it's the memory card that give trouble)
4. test Continuous shoot, will the shutter jam? 
5. basically you'll have to test everything, every single functions and settings of the body, like ISO, pop-up flash, the condition of hot shoe, the buttons etc etc

As for the lens:
1. it's important that the rubber is still firm.
2. make sure it works on more than ONE Bodies.
3. play with aperture, the zoom if it has, play with it like a toy.
4. if the lens got dust and fungus inside, you can send it for cleaning.
5. if the contact points are dirty, gently use eraser to clean it.
6. if the lens is AF-S, make sure the motor inside is silent while auto focusing, no loud squeaky sound.

what else?   

Remember, these are based on my personal experiences, correct me if I'm wrong 

For those who are interested in getting cheap extension tubes (~RM30) for macro photography, do take note that these are merely hollow tubes which "holds" your lens at a certain distance from the sensor to allow a nearer focus point. There are different types of extension tubes (ET) with different mounts for Canon/Nikon/Sony etc.



Of course, there are more expensive extension tubes (ET) which costs around RM200-RM500 i.e. Meike/Kenko.
The main differences between these ET and cheaper ones are:
1) Electronic continuity between body and lens. Meike and Kenko ET allows the camera body to "communicate" with your lens, so aperture control and Autofocus abilities are still usable.

2) Better built quality: Can support heavier lenses without breaking

Afaik, using cheap extension tubes (also known as manual tubes by some) will cause Nikon systems to enter an aperture mode of F0 (due to the lack of electronic connection) when used on normal lenses without manual aperture rings. This will lead to photos coming out very dark, no matter what setup you use.
Based on what I know, there are only two ways of getting over this if you do not have a lens with a manual aperture ring
a) Get a lens with a manual aperture ring (duh lol), usually the one to go for is the 50mm F1.8D since its pretty cheap and very common.

b) This depends on the type of ET I suppose (don't think all cheap ET are like this). For Nikon systems, the only way to prevent the aperture value becoming F0 is to manually "trick" the aperture controls. Details can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402...&type=3&theater
All credits to Mr. Shahrir Haji Nawawi for sharing his knowledge on this

Canon systems are easier to use with cheap ET though. One only has to attach a normal lens, set the aperture (say F16), then press DOF preview, remove the normal lens, then attach the ET plus the lens and the aperture will be set to F16.

Verdict for Nikon users:
Unless if you already have a 50mm F1.8D (which many have since it is the nifty fifty ), and only wanted to try out on macro photography (no intentions of buying any dedicated macro lens later), the cheap ET will be good enough~
If you intend to venture into the world of macro photography, then by all means get Meike/Kenko (especially Kenko if you plan on investing in a big macro lens i.e. 90mm/105mm/150mm/180mm etc. later on); the better built quality will reduce the risks of dropping the lens or damaging the connecting plates between lens and body. And of course, there is Autofocus. The AF capabilities differ from lens to lens, although it sucks on the 50mm F1.8g, it works like a charm on the 105mm F2.8 micro. I even shoot with AF now, big change in shooting style

by PF T.J. @ Nov 15 2013, 11:30 AM