Haha I posted that before I bought my speakers. I'm already a user of the VS4621. For a sub 300 quid speakers the quality is excellent IMO It might be my sound card making the speakers sound better than it should but oh well, it easily overpowered the C3 and HCS2330 even when compared at the shop.

Best is go try the speakers yourself bro. I'd recommend JayaHypermarket at Imbi Plaza. Huge selection of speakers they have for Altec Lansing, Edifier, Creative and Sonic Gear. Best part is you can test each and every one of the speakers to your heart's content. There will be an elderly malay man there to help and pitch in with some recommendations and opinions. Very friendly and helpful.

The VS4621 is actually a replacement to the VS4121. If you are looking to get the VS4121 you better hurry because it has been discontinued and what is left now are leftover stocks which will not be replenished once sold out.

This post has been edited by sigheart: Apr 18 2011, 08:12 PM

hmmm ok thanks. i m asking in the edifier thread too....hehehe.....now my mind is thinking either the hcs2330 or altec lansing vs4621. need to test it & decide....but reviews for altec lansing says the sound is muffled. u experience that?

most new altecs nowadays sounded muffled.
the design isn't good and the parts used are cut cost parts

well in my opinion, the VS4121 and VS4621 is muffled in midrange. it is inevitable because of its downfiring midrange. i own VS4121 before, even open it up and check what's inside. the VS4621 seems to be using better transformer (toroidal) but i do not own it. listening in the stores both sound more-or-less the same.

if you very often listen to music, try other suggestions. if you're mainly playing games, both probably be good since they have very boomy bass.

alright. thanks for the reply, i think i will get edifier instead of altec lansing. (sorry altec lansing)

this brand speaker good with sub woofer anot?

YES, they are more boomy at base
AL speaker recommended for movies and games because the the bass produce very strong but not clear/tight

for movie or gaming probably AL will beat edifier
if music lower i strongly recommended edifier
at the end its all depends on your ear

only the old models are awesome... sadly the new ones are.......

4.7uf 25v x4
2.2uf 50v x13
1uF 50v x3
0.47uf 50v x5

The above capacitors had been replaced with the original ones. However, there's a loud "hoo" sound coming from the satellite speakers when connecting to power!

1. Is it caused by bad soldering?
2. Is it something wrong with other previously changed capacitors like 10000uF, 2200uF, 220uF, 100uF, 47uF, 10uF, etc.?
3. Is it something wrong with some others IC parts other than the capacitors?

And I do notice there's a minor pop sound coming out from the satellite speakers at the moment when I 'd connected them to the speakers' connectors EVEN IT'S POWER CUT? A leakage? Where's it coming from? Would it be a hint on how to deal with the problem?

Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 04:39 PM

count me in! vs4121 and ADA885

don't worry, you solder well =)
is the hoo sounds like radio hiss?
hiss are from the old caps since they are of old age...

pop after powercut means your 10000uf powerfilter is working good and stores power even after off, only that the caps in signal path are old and didnot block pop sound

most importantly, is it still works even with hiss and pop?

if it still works, time to buy panasonic capacitor replacements! cheap and good! and go get your refund + damages claim from your capacitor vendor

1. It sounds like ship horn..."hooo"!

2. I cut off the power immediately when it's sreaming, dare not connect it to any sound sources since I'm afraid of its burning up if it's lasting long! So, I would say it's not functioning properly because it's quite impossible to test with any sound sources under such circumstances!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 04:38 PM

horn sound means short circuit...
something (most probably opamp/volume control fry)

test the main amp if still works
use the TDA7370B datasheet to bypass opamps and volume control
trace to the 'input' of the TDA7370B amp chip.
trace and remove the capacitor going into it...
leg 4 and 5 for left/right and leg 11 and 12 for sub....

got light nao?

on and see still got horn sound if got means ur acs45.1 bye bye

you can also plug input directly to leg 4,5 and 11,12 to test got sound come out

ALSO, you can skip all this and buy another acs45.1 at 2nd hand (around rm50) and do this all over again (with ORIGINAL parts) =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Apr 20 2011, 06:31 PM

Though it's too technical for me to work on it, I'll go studying it. Thanks!

Besides the possibility of somethings short-circuiting, is the below causes possible?
1. bad soldering?
2. putting wrong value capacitors onto the wrong places?

More information provided, I'd just put all those ELNA's capacitors to someone for testing with a Fluke Multimeter, it reported that they are all okay! So, it seems the problems may not be causing by any defected capacitors.

If there's no way of saving its life, I have no choices but just going back to the initial PLAN B, bypassing it to an external amplifier! About this modification, it's really a quite time-consuming and money-consuming experiment...sigh!



This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 09:13 PM

hmmn.. sorry no idea, but i suspect the caps. since thats the last thing you put in before pfffttt
if you want to plonk in other amps... just keep in mind that it should be 30w and below.....
and the speakers are 4 ohms..... =)

Did you see the woofer went inner or outer from the origin position?

I'd saved it, the speakers' no more horning! Though the subwoofer's not yet connected, I'd tested with a small radio the left & right speakers, they sound again!

Unfortunately, it's my fault insisted replacing those original 4.7uf 25v x4, 2.2uf 50v x13, 1uF 50v x3, 0.47uf 50v x5 with the ELNA's. After the replacement(re-soldering again, this could be fatal...), there's a problem of "power on", sometimes it can and sometimes it can't...weird?

After several trials, it's ON again, I dare not power off it and let it keeping power on, let the capacitors be charging & working... Don't know why, any idea?

Anyway, at least the ACS 45.1's not dead yet!

So you means when subwoofer not yet connected it works like normal? That might probably soldering problem for the parts you modified causing the subwoofer amplifier part lost out the biasing. Remember to clean your soldered flux, using contact cleaner and water.

If the suspicious power on problem was solved, I'll connect all the L&R, as well as the subwoofer speakers to the pcb to have a thorough test again. Hope it will be okay!

toldja its the caps haha =) yay it works again!