The red colours highlighted is most probably a metal film capacitor, while the yellow one is ceramic capacitors. It seems to be enough already, if you want for more then replace it to polypropylene one, especially the signal path.


Have fun modding

Slowly search and learn....no worries

You can search around for well known good cap brand, but mostly is WIMA and Vishay one. The value reading you refer to here, it works like resistor colour code.

0.1H is indicating inductance, it should be an inductor there, H is henry, uf is microfarad which is unit for capacitance.

Nope you can't....

Clean your solder flux....i experienced that problem before when i mod my Edifier speaker and that took me a day to found it out. Because normally we use the solder flux will conduct some electricity unless you're using 'no clean' flux, that would be different story.

Did you see the woofer went inner or outer from the origin position?

So you means when subwoofer not yet connected it works like normal? That might probably soldering problem for the parts you modified causing the subwoofer amplifier part lost out the biasing. Remember to clean your soldered flux, using contact cleaner and water.

IMO, JRC4558 can be replaced, to NE5532 if you want go for budget one. That cheapo op-amp are some better than JRC4558, for better ones try go for LME49720 or LME49860 depends on the power supply voltage. Other Burr Brown op-amp such as OPA2604 or OPA2134 can try out also but i personally not like it for swapping purpose, coz it does not sound like the way it like.

I bet that beggarmaster2000 still likes the original JRC4558 =D