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 The watch thread v7

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eyez98
post Feb 1 2014, 10:20 AM

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Got this this cny smile.gif something bright.. The new gen Seiko Orange Monster SRP309. Paid 790 for it, at 35% discount off the retail price of 1190. Not sure if it's the cheapest in town, but I'm loving the orange dial smile.gif the new 4R36 movement inside which is hackable and can be handwound is pretty cool.
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BigMan123
post Feb 1 2014, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(eyez98 @ Feb 1 2014, 10:20 AM)
Got this this cny smile.gif something bright.. The new gen Seiko Orange Monster SRP309. Paid 790 for it, at 35% discount off the retail price of 1190. Not sure if it's the cheapest in town, but I'm loving the orange dial smile.gif the new 4R36 movement inside which is hackable and can be handwound is pretty cool.
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One glance..I thought its a tag. Nice...

This post has been edited by BigMan123: Feb 1 2014, 11:55 AM
viqq
post Feb 1 2014, 06:16 PM

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Can I send the watch back for exchange if my seiko snzg15 runs a minute faster within a day? Now it's 2 minutes faster over the course of 3 days and it's quite annoying.

I don't want to pop the back of the case to regulate it since I just bought the watch about a month ago.
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post Feb 1 2014, 06:39 PM

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You can try but I doubt anyone will exchange it for you unless you are really buddy buddy with the shop (even then I still doubt it). I don't think the SNZG comes with any guaranty of accuracy (not that I'd expect a USD100 watch to come with one).
Jason
post Feb 1 2014, 08:30 PM

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If its under warranty you can send it back for inspection.
BigMan123
post Feb 1 2014, 08:43 PM

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QUOTE(viqq @ Feb 1 2014, 06:16 PM)
Can I send the watch back for exchange if my seiko snzg15 runs a minute faster within a day? Now it's 2 minutes faster over the course of 3 days and it's quite annoying.

I don't want to pop the back of the case to regulate it since I just bought the watch about a month ago.
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Insist there is something wrong. Its consumer rights
TSpatryn33
post Feb 1 2014, 11:47 PM

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Isn't there paper work which states the accuracy specs?
sniper on the roof
post Feb 2 2014, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(viqq @ Feb 1 2014, 06:16 PM)
Can I send the watch back for exchange if my seiko snzg15 runs a minute faster within a day? Now it's 2 minutes faster over the course of 3 days and it's quite annoying.

I don't want to pop the back of the case to regulate it since I just bought the watch about a month ago.
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It could very well be magnetized.
sniper on the roof
post Feb 3 2014, 02:50 AM

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QUOTE(CHiNO730 @ Jan 31 2014, 06:58 PM)
Strictly a matter of opinion.  I strongly disagree.  Perhaps because the average watch enthusiast does not know what I know about the brand.  I mean, I have a copy of the patent application for the device protecting the crown that was filed in the United States Patent Office in 1960.  I have a copy of the photo of the original Panerai boutique as it stood in 1930 and another as it stands in 2013.  I've seen an incredible number of iterations of the watch from the 1930's to the 1950's and the varying inconsistencies in designs between the years as the company tried numerous prototypes to get the design right.  The closest real competitor in that category was the Rolex Submariner, and that was a consumer grade watch meant for an entirely different purpose and didn't even see the light of day until 1953.

Panerai today is probably a better managed and marketed brand, but since we're talking history, back then it was run by Italians, and for the life of them, they could only figure out a measly contract with the Italian Navy and produce just hundreds of watches in the span of several decades.  By most measures it was a rather unsuccessful company from a capitalists point of view, but they made watches that were designed for and used in combat, so from a watchmakers standpoint it was a rather revolutionary timepiece and not for the traditional reasons (i.e. execution of the movement).  Every other watch was 30mm or so in size, and these guys were going 47mm with huge arabic numbers because it had to be strapped over a wetsuit and be legible in all conditions.  I mean even the name of the watch "Radiomir" was named after the radioactive paste that was applied to it for the purposes of underwater/nighttime illumination - it's still the same name after 80 years. 

You see, Panerai never wanted to be the biggest and best known watchmaker in the world.  They didn't seek to slap their brand on the wrist of every famous explorer, sports athlete or space mission.  It's really a miracle that the brand is still around, because there are so many boutique shops that come and go.  But how many that have changed the face of watch design today from something created 80 years ago and designed for a frogman with never any expectation to go to the mass consumer market.  If anything, big corporations and slick marketing are to blame for the prolific expansion of the brand today, but the history remains the same.

I mean, I can't say the brand dates back to a family of the 1600's that formed an entire watchmaking region (JLC) or that it was the first to the moon (Omega), first to go underwater (Rolex) first jeweler to go big watchmaker (Cartier) or the oldest (Vacheron Constantin).  Those all have great history for different reasons, and the companies all had very different purposes and desires.  Does that make them any more "great" or "rich" in history?  It depends on who you ask, but unfair to say with absolute resolution, one way or another.
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This is much more interesting than the typical posts about price inquiries laugh.gif and as posted earlier, I think pams are has a unique look, a special something when it comes to physically interacting with it, its legacy of bringing about the trend to plus size watches and how its peers marketed their product.

That said, Panerai history a fascinating read but my opinion remains that the "history" is overly romanticized around the exploits italian navy divers and just too one dimensional.

QUOTE
.....Every other watch was 30mm or so in size, and these guys were going 47mm with huge arabic numbers because it had to be strapped over a wetsuit and be legible in all conditions......but they made watches that were designed for and used in combat, so from a watchmakers standpoint it was a rather revolutionary timepiece and not for the traditional reasons (i.e. execution of the movement)


Panerai had a requirement set by the Italian navy and went to Rolex for a solution. So happens Rolex had pocket pocket watch that fits the bill. Weld on some wire lugs and the rest is history.

I would also argue that the special feature of a large 47mm legible dial visible under murky waters when other watches were 30mm could very well end up in oblivion let alone revolutionary since no one took notice for 60+ years until Stallone popularized it with the Hollywood crowd. Let's not forget that fliegers for the Luftwaffe were even 55mm in size.

QUOTE
Panerai never wanted to be the biggest and best known watchmaker in the world.  They didn't seek to slap their brand on the wrist of every famous explorer, sports athlete or space mission.  It's really a miracle that the brand is still around, because there are so many boutique shops that come and go.


Absolutely agree that the brand's status today, where it seems they're going and most of all its ability to avoid being pigeon holed as a two model watch brand is nothing short of miraculous.

But again it could be argued that they never had the muscles to to "slap their brand on the wrist of every famous explorer, sports athlete or space mission" pre-richemont. Now they could and certainly have their fair shares of celebrity endorsements, explorer (Mike Horn and his Submersible) and wait for it.... the Expendables. laugh.gif





CHiNO730
post Feb 3 2014, 05:13 AM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Feb 3 2014, 02:50 AM)
This is much more interesting than the typical posts about price inquiries  laugh.gif and as posted earlier, I think pams are has a unique look, a special something when it comes to physically interacting with it, its legacy of bringing about the trend to plus size watches and how its peers marketed their product.

That said, Panerai history a fascinating read but my opinion remains that the "history" is overly romanticized around the exploits italian navy divers and just too one dimensional.
Panerai had a requirement set by the Italian navy and went to Rolex for a solution. So happens Rolex had pocket pocket watch that fits the bill. Weld on some wire lugs and the rest is history.

I would also argue that the special feature of a large 47mm legible dial visible under murky waters when other watches were 30mm could very well end up in oblivion let alone revolutionary since no one took notice for 60+ years until Stallone popularized it with the Hollywood crowd. Let's not forget that fliegers for the Luftwaffe were even 55mm in size.
Absolutely agree that the brand's status today, where it seems they're going and most of all its ability to avoid being pigeon holed as a two model watch brand is nothing short of miraculous.

But again it could be argued that they never had the muscles to to "slap their brand on the wrist of every famous explorer, sports athlete or space mission" pre-richemont. Now they could and certainly have their fair shares of celebrity endorsements, explorer (Mike Horn and his Submersible) and wait for it.... the Expendables.  laugh.gif
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I think during the whole discussion there was a question of a price inquiry as well. So we can have a little of both. =)

Rolex was definitely instrumental in the first prototype, and the first watches used a Cortebert ebauche that was enhanced by Rolex. But I would not agree that they just took a Rolex pocket watch and "welded on some wire lugs." The design of the production dial and case was all Panerai including the application of their patented, Radium based, phosphorescent paste and calling them Radiomir's. Eventually, Panerai moved off Rolex altogether and went with an Angelus 8-day movement.

And yes, I totally agree that the entire brand could have ended up "in oblivion" if not for Stallone. He was instrumental in "saving" the brand and the subsequent decision by Vendome to purchase it, and later acquisition by Richemont. If not for Stallone, I would not be here passionately arguing my point.

I think if Panerai had commercialised the brand long ago, it would have lost its low production, highly focused and purpose-built charm. I don't mind so much that they're doing that today (yes, that includes Mike Horn and his polar ice cap surviving Arktos Submersible or Stallone in Expendables - coincidentally his 2nd lead costar, Statham, wore the watch in all of his Transporter movies as well) with celebrities since whatever they possibly do today won't impinge on the arguable history. It also has the benefit of allowing the brand to flourish vs being a mere distant memory.

And now for a bit more history.

A copy of the original design drawing of the patent issued in July of 1956 to Maria and Giuseppe Panerai for a "Tight-seal device for the control knob of instruments, particularly for the setting and winding knob of watches."

user posted image

By this time Rolex has far more patents on many more meaningful portions of the watch, but it is a primary hallmark for the design of the previous and current Panerai watches despite being patented nearly 10 years after the original introduction of the design.

And here's a photo of my Panerai 1950's Luminor Marina with 3-day Power Reserve set against the background photo of a late 1940's Panerai Luminor. The 312 is as close to historically accurate representation of the 1950's Luminor watch, with the exception of the date window, sapphire crystal glass (the original used Perspex) and of course movement (312 being Panerai's in-house automatic movement vs the original Angelus manual-wind 8-day movement).

user posted image

I commissioned strap-maker Greg Steven's to make a custom strap with the original style GPF-Mod Dep buckle, and vintage/distressed Italian leather with matching box stitching to mimick the style of strap and buckle found in the 1950's versions.

user posted image

I even had him do a similar fleiger style strap for my Seiko. Note - in this case the strap costed more than the watch. =)

user posted image

Cheers.

This post has been edited by CHiNO730: Feb 3 2014, 05:25 AM
-_-
post Feb 3 2014, 08:26 AM

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I actually find panerai attractive dues to their design ques. They are also very recognizable because of their newly crown guard trademark(if i remember correctly). However I was not interested buying them because of them putting eta movement and selling for crazy prices until they release their movement p9000. So i was going to research about the p9000 and also figure out which watch has such movement until i stumbled this http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...sterious+PAM318

After reading all about this and their after sales not willingly contacting all the other 318 owners, i find that this brand is out there to take your money and is not passionate about watches. That is why I do not look highly on panerai as a brand.

That is why i also agree with everdying that this brand is for those who are just into expensive fashion statement and not into the brand as a whole.
kenji1903
post Feb 3 2014, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(-_- @ Feb 3 2014, 08:26 AM)
I actually find panerai attractive dues to their design ques. They are also very recognizable because of their newly crown guard trademark(if i remember correctly). However I was not interested buying them because of them putting eta movement and selling for crazy prices until they release their movement p9000. So i was going to research about the p9000 and also figure out which watch has such movement until i stumbled this http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...sterious+PAM318

After reading all about this and their after sales not willingly contacting all the other 318 owners, i find that this brand is out there to take your money and is not passionate about watches. That is why I do not look highly on panerai as a brand.

That is why i also agree with everdying that this brand is for those who are just into expensive fashion statement and not into the brand as a whole.
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ah... so this the PAM model with the movement replacement that i have read about last time... any idea if that replacement actually took place? smile.gif
zorbyss.
post Feb 3 2014, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(-_- @ Feb 3 2014, 08:26 AM)
I actually find panerai attractive dues to their design ques. They are also very recognizable because of their newly crown guard trademark(if i remember correctly). However I was not interested buying them because of them putting eta movement and selling for crazy prices until they release their movement p9000. So i was going to research about the p9000 and also figure out which watch has such movement until i stumbled this http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...sterious+PAM318

After reading all about this and their after sales not willingly contacting all the other 318 owners, i find that this brand is out there to take your money and is not passionate about watches. That is why I do not look highly on panerai as a brand.

That is why i also agree with everdying that this brand is for those who are just into expensive fashion statement and not into the brand as a whole.
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+1
Most ppl are attracted by their designs not the brands.

For even a basic model like PAM111, I would have place my respect and spend my money elsewhere like for a Speedy or even a Rolex Sub, watches that come with historical value.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not a hater, its just right that when you know that the movement itself just cost about US$300, would you spend the rest of the thousands on the case and design?
Correct me if Im wrong.
Same goes to HUBLOT. Dont you agree? brows.gif
Apple_DarreN
post Feb 3 2014, 01:03 PM

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Guys, what do you think of the Timex Weekender? Is there anything specifically in mind? I'll be buying it as a gift for a friend of mine, decent looking watch enough.
sniper on the roof
post Feb 3 2014, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(Apple_DarreN @ Feb 3 2014, 01:03 PM)
Guys, what do you think of the Timex Weekender? Is there anything specifically in mind? I'll be buying it as a gift for a friend of mine, decent looking watch enough.
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Depend on how you look at it.
Its inexpensive, timex has historical roots in making cheap watches, it looks and feels unmistakenably inexpensive but its honest and functional.
Jason
post Feb 3 2014, 04:35 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Feb 3 2014, 01:14 PM)
Depend on how you look at it.
Its inexpensive, timex has historical roots in making cheap watches, it looks and feels unmistakenably  inexpensive but its honest and functional.
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Cheap.. Would it be more accurate to say they make tool watches for the everyday man and fairly priced?

Most ETA movement swiss watches don't cost that much to make. Marketing costs the bulk of it. More of a luxury good rather than a tool to tell time.
sniper on the roof
post Feb 3 2014, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(Jason @ Feb 3 2014, 04:35 PM)
Cheap.. Would it be more accurate to say they make tool watches for the everyday man and fairly priced?

Most ETA movement swiss watches don't cost that much to make. Marketing costs the bulk of it. More of a luxury good rather than a tool to tell time.
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I didn't mean it in a negative cheap way.

Timex... well... before its called Timex anyway... made its mark by selling the "dollar watch" with the unique selling point of being inexpensive costing just 1 dollar.

Such is the reputation that US leaders (unlike our AP, Hublot etc clad leaders) made it a point to wear Timex when in power to represent thrift and connection with the everyday joes.

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Feb 3 2014, 05:03 PM
darkaxx
post Feb 3 2014, 10:36 PM

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hi guys,

sorry to butt in ..any recommendations for a white face + metal strap + medium large size ?

looking for more options, to choose, budgets within 8k - 14k
avantasia
post Feb 3 2014, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(darkaxx @ Feb 3 2014, 10:36 PM)
hi guys,

sorry to butt in ..any recommendations for a white face + metal strap + medium large size ?

looking for more options, to choose, budgets within 8k - 14k
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Colt gmt Breitling....
hidden830726
post Feb 3 2014, 10:58 PM

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Sniper, i particularly interested to know what you think since i knew you are a into photography and horology.

If you are to use the same amount of money and allow to choose between a:

1) Leica+Summicron lens
2) Rolex

Which will you get if only can choose 1?
Which will you get 1st if you need to prioritize?
Why?

Off course, others please feel free to chip in.

I'm just asking, not gonna spend money on the above anytime soon.

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